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The French are famous for romance. And dining Française is one way to capture the mystery of a Parisian love story without having to suffer the nasty TSA lines. This month, when looking for that perfect candle-lit scene, an amorous bistro is just the thing to charm your Valentine whether it’s the first time or the fiftieth. Bon appetit!

Bistro Citron

Along Main Street in the quaint town of Old Roslyn sits Bistro Citron.
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Almond

On the corner of Montauk Hwy and Ocean Rd, Almond claims the throne as one of the Hamptons’ top spots.
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Le Soir

There’s something special about spending Valentine’s Day at a quaint French country restaurant. Le Soir offers a romantic evening in a subtle, understated, but honestly good setting.
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Bonus:

Tables By Number

Five intimate tables at the Island’s best international dining restaurants.
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Bistro Citron
Old Roslyn
(516) 403-4400
http://www.bistrocitron.com

A couple’s first Valentine’s Day should be smart and intimate. Picking the perfect venue is rather important, especially from a woman’s point of view. Along Main Street in the quaint town of Old Roslyn sits Bistro Citron. From the outside, a dim glow of light grabs the attention of pedestrians and drivers alike. A small table and chair sits in the window, conveying the romanticism of the dining experience within. With all the trappings of a true French bistro, Citron masters the charm of Paris. And this stylish restaurant looks as authentic as it tastes, too.

Stepping into the heart of the bistro reveals a gorgeous stained-glass ceiling, tasteful chandeliers and dark wood molding throughout. An exquisite view of the Roslyn duck pond serves as a backdrop, making the location an ideal place to wine and dine with your significant other.

The menu options exemplify the best of French cuisine as well. Escargots à la bourguignonne, steak tartare and mussels prepared with three different sauces are wonderful options to split as starters. Bistro Citron adds nice twists to their staple fare with daily specials, which include an array of items from both land and sea. The epaulé de porc braisée is a marinated cider-braised pork shoulder with apple parsnip purée and pickled red cabbage that melts in your mouth. The sesame-crusted tuna laid over sautéed baby bok choy and oyster mushrooms with a ginger-soy demi-glace is seafood par excellence. If you are looking to add romance to your meal, choose the “pour 2 personnes” or plate for two—a meal designed to be shared. While polishing off a bottle of wine, let the warm Nutella crepes envelop the experience. It can hardly get more French then wine, crepes and chocolate! You and your Valentine will be seeing through rose-colored glasses in no time.

Almond
Bridgehampton
(631) 537-5665, almondrestaurant.com

Oh, the Hamptons in the winter. Whether it’s sweeping along 27 sans traffic or the sense of open-space serenity, there is an appeal about the East End in the off season. On the corner of Montauk Hwy and Ocean Rd, Almond claims the throne as one of the Hamptons’ top spots. A spontaneous drive sparks the fire for an eventful night out with your sweetheart. Its original décor and exceptional cuisine set the stage for a creative Parisian night out à la modern stylings. The venue’s large dining space allows for privacy at a table for two. The casual, yet chic, vibe and its vintage details are a perfect combination. Tall glass doors wrap around the restaurant between white subway tiles and red wallpaper featuring zebras that seem to dance behind the diners.

Share any of their traditional and not-so-traditional appetizers, like the warm duck confit salad served with a poached egg, generous pieces of roasted acorn squash and sprinkled pumpkin seeds. Or the absolutely delicious roasted red and yellow beet salad with candied pistachios crushed atop a goat cheese crostini.

One of Almond’s most popular winter dishes is the day boat scallops, served atop a remarkable concoction of butternut squash and vanilla purée, along with sautéed Brussels sprouts, frisée salad, pomegranate seeds and incomparable homemade duck prosciutto. The mouthwatering Le Grande macaroni & cheese is baked right into the serving dish, oozing with cheese, prosciutto and chopped truffles. The crusty top layer is too good to be true. The goat cheese ravioli with caramelized pumpkin slices, apples and sage has flavor bursting with every bite.

Cap off a truly special evening with a made-to-order dessert, adding that special touch as if the restaurant was reserved for the two of you. The warm apple cinnamon crostada is topped with vanilla ice cream, which melts throughout. Whether it’s one of your first anniversaries or you have many under your belt, Valentine’s Day at Almond offers a relaxed dining experience worth the journey out east.

Prime photo by Stephen Lang

Le Soir
Bayport
(631) 472-9090, lesoirbayport.com

There’s something special about spending Valentine’s Day at a quaint French country restaurant. Le Soir offers a romantic evening in a subtle, understated, but honestly good setting. It’s the perfect place for encore “lovers’ holidays”—it is as comfortable and familiar as the two of you feel together. The inviting, Tudor exterior hosts a traditional interior featuring dim candles and Impressionist paintings, a gracious staff and authentic French cuisine.

Every stage of each meal at Le Soir is impeccably made with the finest and freshest ingredients to bring out its true flavors. Treat your loved one to any of their scrumptious hors d’oeuvres. The delicious entrée options as well as the changing daily specials never cease to impress. Oysters on the half shell served with a homemade red wine vinaigrette and diced shallots are just right for a lighter choice while the soupe à l’oignon gratinée is perfectly baked and extra cheesy. The filet mignon is a USDA Prime Angus beef tenderloin sautéed with a rich red wine sauce, and served with a beet and carrot purée in the shape of a rose (perfect for Valentine’s Day). Another exceptional meat dish is the pork tenderloin served over cabbage with a savory coconut curry sauce that adds a nice twist to a classic European dish. Tasteful, yet not too heavy, the filet of sole is paired with the choice of either almonds or brown butter blended with parsley and lemon.

Finish your evening reminiscing the years spent together while sipping on sweet dessert wine and indulging in one of Le Soir’s homemade pastries. The fruit tart made with pleasantly plump strawberries and blueberries is a divine option. Or go all in for the chocolate pecan tart, loaded with bits of chocolate and blanketed by a classic French custard crème anglaise. From the moment you enter Le Soir, familiar moments of affection and devotion will come rushing back, and this next dinner will make the perfect addition to your favorite “lovers’ day” repertoire.

When it comes to planning the perfect dinner, attention to detail is key. A restaurant with spectacular cuisine, impeccable service and well appointed ambiance is the difference between “oh yes!” and “ok, yeah.” The table is the missing link. Since they are usually in high demand, intimate little corners and romantic nooks are hard to come by. But knowing what to ask for is a good start. Though making the request is not a guarantee of reservation, these five tables (in no particular order) have been known to live up to expectation.

The Living Room
c/o The Maidstone,
East Hampton
631.324.5006
careofhotels.com/maidstone
If you like art, you will be happy. If you like familiar, you will be happy. If you like exciting cuisine, you will be happy. If you would like all these at once, you will be very happy at this Hamptons hallmark. This is the charming, artful place, where the dining room is a triumph of old and new, blending the quaint antique East End building with eclectic, artsy, Scandinavian design. And the food is sublime. If you’re lucky, you’ll get 23J, uniquely set aside the fireplace near the bar area. Best part? You can stay overnight and make a weekend of it.

Il Mulino
Roslyn
516.621.1870
ilmulino.com
The food at this Italian mainstay is superb. And it is the beginning, middle and end of the story. But it’s also dressed in flawless service and a refreshing, but toasty, dining room. A cozy bar table, known as #B2 to some, is an ideal mid-week retreat. Since that can get noisy when the weekend scene is set, try for one of the corner alcove tables in the main room. Either will be the perfect launching pad into an Italian dream, rich with traditional dishes like ossobuco and homemade cannelloni.

Prime
Huntington Bay
631.385.1515
restaurantprime.com
All hail the steakhouse that is manly without being macho, beautiful without being girly. In other words, Prime is the perfect pedigree for couples: A balance of impressive, elegant modern design with accessible, thoughtful open décor. Suggested agenda: Start at the Wave Bar and end in the Lodge. In between, tuck into the Vine Room for dinner. Situated against the glass wall exposing the gorgeously illuminated wine cellar, #70 is the two-top that gives a full view of the room without any up close and personal neighboring tables.

La Plage
Wading River
631.744.9200
laplagerestaurant.net
For a restaurant that is quietly romantic and understated in a beachy sort of way, Wayne Wadington’s graceful venue overlooking the Sound won’t disappoint. The cuisine is inventive American, with a decidedly French influence, and is consistently first rate. The extensive, well-curated wine selection features some of LI’s most desirable bottles, but isn’t shy about venturing into other lands near and far (from California to South Africa). The setting is ideal for a relaxed, perfectly orchestrated evening. Show your date you really mean it: Ask for table #12.

La Coquille
Manhasset
516.365.8422
la-coquille-manhasset.com
A special evening is made all the more spectacular “dining at the table of kings.” Especially when the hostess is Manhasset’s 38-year-old grand dame. She is natural, open and formal, but far from fussy. For lovers of corner tables, #6 is a favorite that offers a view of both the entire dining room and the exterior window. #9 is a petite two-top at “center stage” that is a private, tête-à-tête oasis in a sea of everyone else. Cuisine is distinctly French, with the caviar and grenouilles to prove it, but berets are optional.

VILLA D’AQUA
Bellmore (516) 308-4900

Long Island’s love affair with Italian food continues. Despite the proliferation, even avalanche, of Asian and other ethnic eateries, the Italians keep coming and are still number one in Nassau and Suffolk. Local diners don’t seem to discriminate between northern or southern, storefront or palatial, traditional or cutting edge, expensive or bargain basement, so long as it’s Italiano.

There always seems to be room for one more and in this case the one is the waterfront Villa D’Aqua in Bellmore. It’s an upscale spot of flowers, white tablecloths, terra cotta red walls, solid wood ceiling trim, carpeting, lines of lights outlining interior features and an attractive outdoor wraparound deck. Villa D’Aqua is, in short, a discrete, subdued, somewhat pricey, big deal Italian restaurant. While its agreeable atmosphere and reasonably good, no-surprise food won’t particularly appeal to adventurous diners, it’s perfect for traditional, old-school eaters who seek dependable, first-class renditions of Italian standouts like clams oreganatte, minestrone, penne vodka, gnocchi, fettuccine Bolognese, chicken scarpariello, tiramisu and Italian cheesecake.

Meals here begin with admirably warm, crusty bread and a trio of spreads. After that, pay attention to the modestly-priced, well-prepared soups, especially the rich, dense pasta fagioli ($4.95). The lentil soup of the day ($5.95), once enlivened, even rescued by needed salt is also worth a look. Other than soups, try the mellow, superior version of stuffed mushrooms ($7.95) and the insalata Romana ($8.95), a generous meld of interesting, harmonious ingredients like romaine, avocado, tomatoes and roasted peppers in a tangy raspberry vinegar sauce.

Entrées are substantial, but not always exciting. Yet three of the four entrées sampled were everything they should be: Plump, jumbo sea scallops ($19.95) smothered under slivers of mushrooms with unannounced, but welcome, broccoli and roasted potatoes; pollo francese ($15.95), moist, thin, chicken cutlets in a lemony butter wine sauce; and a gutsy fettuccine Bolognese sporting a sauce dense with meat ($14.95). Only the gnocchi that was anything but light and fluffy, and overly heavy on pesto, disappointed.

All of the house-made desserts measure up. The chocolate cheesecake nicely balances its two ingredients. The chocolate mousse cake was properly decadent and the fruit tarte on a platform of pastry cream offered impressive taste and texture.

On the minus side is a dining room so dim that it’s very difficult to read the menu (I requested a flashlight but they had none) and waiters, or at least a waiter, constantly hovered ridiculously close to tables with his order pad, ever ready virtually from the second diners were seated.

photos by stephen lang

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SINGHA THAI
West Babylon (631) 669-8200

The tiny Singha Thai restaurant sandwiched into the middle of a West Babylon shopping center brings to mind the often-heard observation that sometimes good things come in small packages. This pipsqueak spot next to an empty, dark storefront was a nondescript Japanese restaurant until last June when Jenny Jiang came along. She turned it into a low-cost, high-quality Thai restaurant that has, over the intervening months, been attracting more and more value-conscious diners. When I visited, its modest prices were paired with a BYO regimen that made for even smaller checks.
Ms. Jiang’s diminutive, sixteen-seat, difficult-to-find, bare-bones restaurant offers substantial portions and a huge menu as well as those gentle prices. Almost as significant as soup and starters, as low as $3.95, and main courses that begin at $8.95, is the upbeat, eager-to-please Jenny Jiang herself. Her experience as a waitress includes stops at Long Island Asian mainstays. She’s hired two chefs, one from Manhattan and the other from Thai Station in Merrick.

The red chilis that identify hot and spicy dishes on her menu are accurate about half the time and, unfortunately, more like the toned-down Americanized listings encountered at many local Thai eating places. The latter dishes that lack snap, punch and heat are tasty, but more like smooth, soothing Chinese fare than peppy, fiery Thai cooking. Among the former are goong ta kai or lemongrass shrimp ($13.95) propelled by peppers and chili paste and tom yam goong ($3.95) a spicy shrimp soup that lives up to its name with peppers and lemongrass doing the heavy lifting. More frequently-found dishes on Singha’s menu include melds of harmonizing ingredients. That’s the case, for instance, with gang masamun ($11.95), a rich white curry dominated by coconut milk and dotted with potatoes, onions, peanuts and chunks of chicken or beef. Another pleasant dish without any discernable kick despite its red pepper marking is goong pad tua fug yoa ($13.95). It offers admirable textural contrast with its shrimp, string beans, basil, lime leaves and chili paste, but no heat.

Pasta lovers should target the drunken noodles ($9.95), stir-fried, broad rice noodles paired with basil, onion and bell peppers, and pahe wooson ($13.95) or pan-fried clear noodles with shrimp and a mix of vegetables that includes shitake mushrooms and tomatoes. The first is listed as spicy, the second is not, neither is. But heat-adverse diners will be especially delighted with the mango chicken ($12.95) that contains super-fresh mango stir-fried with tender, moist chicken, sweet peas, onions and pepper in a sweet and sour sauce, as well as the thin lemongrass marinated pork chops ($12.95) that are full of flavor generated by their lemongrass, galangal (a ginger-like root), garlic and lime juice marinade. The pad Thai ($8.95), Thailand’s signature dish is a bit disappointing here. It’s on the dry side with slightly rubbery noodles and little of the egg promised in the menu.

Recommended starters include crisp, greaseless fried mini spring rolls ($5.50); light, white, tender fried calamari ($7.25); steamed shu mai, a tasty bargain at ($6.50); and best of all are deep-fried shrimp wrapped in crisp noodles, a well-done Thai classic at $7.50.

Desserts are the usual suspects. Fried banana ($3.95), ice cream ($3.95), sticky rice and mango ($5.75) and Thai golden bread with ground peanuts ($6.50).

photos by stephen lang

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LAWSON PUB
Oceanside (516) 307-8753

Lawson Pub in Oceanside is a neighborhood hangout that deservedly draws more than locals. It proves that an unpretentious, unfussy venue can be a destination restaurant as well.

For chef/owner Joseph Bonacore, it’s a nostalgic return to his well-remembered past. Bonacore, who recently sold his interest in the super successful Sole in Oceanside, worked as a teenager at the original Lawson Pub in the seventies. It closed in the mid nineties when the space took on a new identity. Now he has returned to the digs that launched his culinary career. The revived Lawson Pub is a relaxed, easygoing, noisy spot that creates a vibe of informal inventiveness. Its menu offers an inspired mix of the obvious (shrimp cocktail, burgers, pastas, etc.) and the slightly unusual (lobster sliders, shrimp Parmesan sliders, grilled chicken paillard nicoise, etc.) without striving for novelty (every bottle of wine at $20 doesn’t hurt either).

Although many of his dishes have a home-cooked feel, Lawson Pub, despite its lively, at times roaring, bar scene is no mug-and-grub joint. Mr. Bonacore is an astute, sensitive observer of culinary trends. In other words, he knows what people want to eat. He proved that at Sole and is repeating his success at Lawson Pub.

His generously-portioned appetizers seem designed to be shared. The potato chips discretely topped with white truffle and Asiago ($6.95) are enough for four diners. The numerous Little Piggies ($6.95) or superior pigs in a blanket are encased in a light, flaky wrapper and are accompanied by three unlikely dipping sauces: Bacon ketchup, Heineken honey mustard and a rather weird chipotle applesauce. Both sliders (two for $11.95), the lobster and the filet mignon are substantial parcels of satisfaction. The first is given a creative twist by its layer of bacon, tomatoes and organic greens, while the filet mignon is a mix of meat, onions, roasted peppers and manchego with bleu cheese slaw. Both were understandably devoured in seconds (but the stale, cold rolls weren’t).

Entrée-sized sandwiches with interesting sides like crisp tater tots; grease-free French fries; incendiary, “angry” homefries and that bleu cheese slaw are listed under “L. P. classics.” Both the Pig’s Ass ($14.95) roast pork sandwich and prime rib French dip ($15.95) featured tender, thinly-sliced meat on toasted garlic bread with Muenster. The L.P. Black Angus burger ($13.95) combines prime beef, lobster salad, cheddar and bacon. It’s an unlikely pairing that surprisingly marries perfectly. Soft, deeply flavored, boneless short ribs ($21.95) are another prime pick.

People who like a small, sweet, but not gargantuan dessert, will relish the housemade mini indulgences ($2.95) at meal’s end. The three rich chocolate covered banana lollipops are especially recommended.

photos by stephen lang

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John Glenn entered space history on February 20, 1962 when he orbited Earth three times in space for four hours and 55 minutes; he was the first astronaut to circle the globe in a space vehicle. Just nine years later, on February 5, 1971, Shepard and Mitchell landed on the Moon. They collected samples of moon rocks, which they brought back to Earth for scientists to study. It should be noted, however, that the first soft landing on the Moon was achieved, not by an American spacecraft but by a Russian one. The craft in question, Luna 9, softly touched down on the Moon on the 3rd of February in 1966. The Russians were also the first to build and launch a “space mirror” intended to collect solar energy for use on Earth. This took place with the deployment of Znamya 2 on February 4, 1993.

• The Winter Solstice is now behind us and we are gaining about 2.4 minutes of daylight with each passing day.
• Venus will be visible in the early evening, setting an hour or so after the Sun. Look for it in western skies at or just after dusk.
• Jupiter will appear east of Venus and, thus, higher in the sky.
• Mars will once again grace the skies. No, it will not be as large as the Moon, but it will appear as a bright orange-tinged star rising in the eastern skies during early evening hours. Best viewing will be somewhat later, say after 9:30pm, when a telescope may reveal the planet’s polar ice caps. Mars reaches opposition on the 3rd of March, 2012.
• There are no significant nighttime meteor showers in February.

If you visit Custer, you can observe these fascinating planets and the Galilean moons through one of the institute’s telescopes.

February is a big month for restaurants on LI due to a certain saint named Valentine. Whether embracing the Valentine’s Day concept or simply offering their usual fare, the diverse abundance in local dining spots is yours for the taking.

The product of skilled Master Chef John David Hensley and Executive Chef Aldo Alo, Savanna’s in Southampton (631) 283-0202 is a contemporary bistro with the perfect formal-yet-informal vibe for couples, serving top-notch cuisine produced with a farm-to-table philosophy utilizing organic and source-verified ingredients. The menu features local seafood, voluptuous steaks and organic produce. Available spirits include a wide variety of wines, cognacs, small batch bourbons and single malt scotches.

Comtesse Thérèse Bistro in Aquebogue (631) 779-2800 is celebrating Valentine’s Day decadence with a Red Wine and Dark Chocolate Pairing Class, happening on Saturday, February 11th from 2-3:30pm. Chocolate Sommelier Roxanne Browning of Exotic Chocolate Tasting will be pairing award-winning, world-class artisanal dark chocolates with Theresa’s Reserve Estate Merlots and Cabernet Sauvignons. Space is limited to 16 guests and tickets are $30 per person. Contact Comtesse Thérèse Bistro to reserve a spot ASAP.

Finally, Top Chef season 5 alum (and New Hyde Park native) Danny Gagnon has teamed with Bernard’s Market & Cafe owner Robert Byrne to bring Italian-Asian fusion to the North Shore—via the brand-spanking new DoraNonnie Tapas & Wine Bar @ Bernard’s, located in Glen Head (516) 759-9100. Chef Gagnon’s innovative creations include Long Island Duck Tacos dolloped with avocado mousse and pickled radish, Creamy Clam Cakes served with Thai basil lemon jam, and Ginger Poached Chicken Lettuce Cups with burnt soy emulsion. For dessert, try the dish that won the Top Chef Dessert Round, a Lemon Pistachio Cake with drizzled honey, candied pistachios, strawberry lemon-lime purée and vanilla ice cream.

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New Orleans, a city where little is frowned upon by the authorities, seems to have an air of prohibition. This is where I learned to embrace the wonderful art of absinthe. A random discussion about the wine industry led to a local shop owner recommending I visit Jean Lafitte’s Old Absinthe House in the French Quarter. Here I received an introduction to this recently legalized beverage and a history lesson from a rather knowledgeable patron (a partner in The Absinthe Museum of America). The story of absinthe is full of romance, intrigue and rumors, and a wonderful nickname, “The Green Fairy” or La Fée Vert in French.

Absinthe became popular in the late 1880s as the drink of choice for the great artisans of the era (Baudelaire, Oscar Wilde,  Édouard Manet, Vincent Van Gogh, Edgar Degas, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec and later, Picasso and Ernest Hemingway and plenty of others). The timing of absinthe’s discovery and popularity coincided with the great vineyard blight, Phylloxera, which devastated the European wine industry. Such timing was integral to the prohibition of absinthe on several continents—politics and economics always play a part in alcohol sales and distribution, along with a bit of rumor and hysteria. Absinthe was banned in the US from 1912-2007 and 1915-2011 in France. The ban was due to claims of absinthe causing insanity (the Wormwood used to make it contains the toxin thujone). Dr. Pierre Ordinaire created the recipe as a remedy for gastric pain, labor pain and cramps. The recipe was purchased by a relative of the Pernod family, who then produced it commercially until the ban. In small doses, thujone can be therapeutic. In large doses, it can cause some pretty serious health problems.

Some of the magic with wine as a pastime and/or addiction are the rituals and history surrounding the libation—what the names mean, the places the wines are produced, the different grapes and styles, pulling the cork, decanting and aging. Absinthe also comes with plenty of history, styles and rituals. The recent resurgence of absinthe is courtesy of Ted Breaux, a New Orleans native with a background in chemistry and bar hopping in the French Quarter. Ted reverse-engineered antique absinthe and determined there shouldn’t be a ban on it at all; the historically demonized product actually fell within US alcohol legislation. Ted started producing his own absinthe using the same recipe as “antique” absinthe. The first one he called Lucid Absinthe Supérieure. Today, this is produced in the Combier Distillery, the historic home of absinthe in Saumur, France. Absinthe has a unique flavor of anise, similar in aroma to sambuca, ouzo or Pernod, but is more delicate and nuanced on the palate.

A traditional preparation involves pouring ice-cold water over a sugar cube into a glass with a shot of absinthe. This process brings out the herbal aromas and turns the liquid a milky green. I prefer to pour the Absinthe over the sugar, then light the sugar on fire allowing the water to extinguish the flame. Though this is not the classic preparation, it is much more exciting and gives a caramel note. Some “modern” absinthe brands to look for in New York are Kübler, Émile Pernot, St. George, Lucid, Absente and Pernod Absinthe. Keep in mind that absinthe is very high in alcohol content and should be mixed with water or anything that will lower the alcohol. You will find absinthe from a minimum of 55% to as much as 70% alcohol by volume, or 90-140 proof. Most wine is between 12.5% and 16%, as are most mixed drinks. Just a small warning.

NASSAU

The Black Sheep Ale House
(516) 307-1280, Mineola

Despite its name, The Black Sheep Ale House is not an alcohol-based homage to the 1996 film, Black Sheep, starring David Spade and an almost-deceased Chris Farley.

I’ve always believed Tommy Boy was the superior cinematic collaboration between Spade and Farley, anyway.

Ahem.

The Black Sheep Ale House, a 25-draft establishment operated by Vincent Minutella, former bartender at Stock & Tankard and manager of Croxley’s New York location, offers complimentary hot dogs to patrons while pours of Lagunitas Brewing Company Lagunitas Sucks Holiday Ale, Rogue Dead Guy Ale and Stone Brewing Company Double Bastard Ale are served. Minutella, who purchased the “corner Irish pub for 90 some odd years” in December of 2010, renovated the space, then O’Donnell’s Pub, with manager Bob Miller. The duo has since compiled a beer list, which also includes 75+ bottles, balancing “seasonality, representation of style, support of local brewers, personal likes and what we thought our clientele would like to see here,” says Minutella.

Genesis of moniker: “After weeks of tossing about every combination of my Irish family name [Burns] and still not finding anything I was happy with, The Black Sheep emerged,” recalls Minutella. “It partly is an homage to my Irish ancestors who were sheep herders in County Roscommon as well as the obvious reference to the ‘black sheep of the family.’ The latter interpretation, along with our motto, ‘Different is Good,’ refers to and celebrates anyone and any beer bold enough to stand out among the crowd.”

Jake’s Steakhouse
(516) 222-8400, East Meadow
jakesstteakhouse.com

TTYL, Runyon’s Roadside Tavern.
Tony McGinley, former owner of Runyon’s Roadside Tavern, transformed the East Meadow pubstaurant into Jake’s Steakhouse, partnered with Peggy Ryan, who established its Bronx location in 2001. Managed by Michael McGinley, nephew of Tony, Jake’s Steakhouse hand-selects each piece of Schuyler, Nebraska-raised meat prior to a mandatory wet-aging minimum of 28 days. Fourteen drafts, including Captain Lawrence Brewing Company Fresh Chester Pale Ale, Kwak, and a seasonal-rotating line from Southampton Publick House, are available for animal-accompaniment.
Food/Beer Pair Matrimony: 35-day dry-aged bone-in ribeye with Cigar City Brewing Maduro Brown Ale. Period.

SUFFOLK

The Park Lounge
(631) 979-1351, Kings Park

“I had an epiphany during my first visit to The Lark Pub & Grub in East Northport,” recalls Jim Pavese, regarding his introduction to craft-dominant establishments on Long Island. “The bar was packed with different taps, and I wanted to bring some of that to my bar.”

Pavese, who opened The Park Lounge with John Weeden in February of 2005, has implemented a shift toward craft beer within its eighteen-tap system, pouring Dogfish Head Craft Brewed Ales 60 Minute IPA and Long Ireland Beer Company Celtic Ale. However, while Pavese hopes to “broaden customer options,” he insists on “a gradual transition, void of intimidation.” For example, Miller Lite exists amid Gulden Draak and Sierra Nevada Brewing Company Celebration Ale.

“The Park Lounge is a neighborhood pub, and we want to respect our clientele,” explains Pavese. “Any drinker of any beer is welcome.”

The Portly Villager
(631) 567-4002, Sayville

A mélange of colonial American maps, rustic farmhouse barrels and wood-carved, Sayville-specific placards adorn The Portly Villager, operated by Marlene Keghlian since March of 2005.

Keghlian, who reconstructed The Portly Villager’s walk-in cold room and doubled its six-draft system in 2010, devoted the half-dozen newbies to “rotating local and seasonal craft.”

“Adding more lines would be suggested during every staff meeting,” says Keghlian, who, during December, poured Anchor Brewing Company Christmas Ale, Greenport Harbor Brewing Company Anti-Freeze and Sierra Nevada Brewing Company Celebration Ale. “Once we rebuilt the walk-in, it was our chance to provide fresh product that reflected our local seasons.”

The Portly Villager also offers 30+ signature sandwiches, including its eponymous creation: Londonport roast beef, melted Havarti cheese and horseradish-dijon sauce on pumpernickel.

Click here to follow Niko Krommydas and his blog, Super Neat Beer Adventure, Yes!!, where you can find more on the Long Island craft beer culture.

Photo by Stephen Lang

When was the last time you ate a chocolate bar? Yesterday? Ten minutes ago? Chances are, chocolate entered your life when you were a small child and has remained a constant companion. The modern world is abundantly familiar with chocolate. Chocolate bars, chocolate cakes, chocolate brownies…the list is endless. But these indulgent desserts are just one facet of the complete story of chocolate, a story beginning thousands of years ago in the ancient Americas.

Food of the Gods
The creation myth of the Mayans, the peoples of modern-day Mexico/Central America (called Mesoamericans) placed cacao among the first foodstuffs of the first humans. These seeds, also known as cocoa beans, are contained in pods that grow on trees native to that area. And after being fermented, dried, roasted, de-shelled and ground, cocoa beans are transformed into chocolate. When officially named by 18th century taxonomist Carl Linnaeus, the cacao tree was dubbed Theobroma cacao, “food of the gods.”

In its ancient guises, chocolate was mostly used as a religious sacrament. According to Mark J. Sciscenti, Chocolate Historian and Artisan Chocolatier at World Tree Chocolates in Santa Fe, NM, “Mesoamericans considered the cacao tree and chocolate to be quite sacred, as the food of the gods and a gift from the gods. Chocolate was consumed only in a ritual and ceremonial manner, primarily by the ruling elites, warriors and wealthy tradesmen, and only under these circumstances—chocolate was not an everyday food.” It was also used “to express love, to cement relationships and trade agreements and as a token of friendship and respect,” Sciscenti explained. He sees this as the “one commonality between ancient and modern times in the use of chocolate.” Witness the National Confectioners Association estimate that in the US, around $750 million was spent on chocolate for loved ones on the occasion of Valentine’s Day, 2010.

The modern, solid form of chocolate might have been perplexing to the ancients. For most of its 4,000-year history, chocolate was consumed in liquid form, with the earliest evidence recently found as residue in a vessel dated to 1150 BC in the Central American state of Honduras. Anthropologist/archaeologist and chocolate scholar Rosemary Joyce from the University of California, Berkeley was a member of the team who made the discovery and characterizes the drink as “frothy, bitter, usually unsweetened and not alcoholic,” although alcoholic chocolate beverages show up later in the historical record.

As “BCE” turned to “CE” (the new way of saying “BC” and “AD”) cultivation of cacao trees skyrocketed and cocoa beans soon became a valued commodity, especially in the Mesoamerican Aztec civilization, where they were used as currency and for barter. Conquistador Hernando de Oviedo y Valdez, who was among the first Spanish colonists of the Americas in 1513, reported that four cocoa beans would buy a rabbit for dinner, ten would acquire the services of a prostitute and 100 was the asking price of a slave.

The Old World Discovers Chocolate
European contact would be the next big step in chocolate’s evolution. The first European to encounter cocoa beans was Christopher Columbus on his fourth and final voyage to the West in 1502. He discovered them in a cache in the vicinity of Honduras. Subsequent Spanish colonists gave the still-bitter drink a try and came up with the idea (attributed to notorious Conquistador Hernán Cortés) to add sugar to the mix, creating a sweet-tasting drink, and thus sweetness and chocolate were forever intertwined. Due to the efforts of the Spanish, and particularly missionary priests, chocolate became a European indulgence, providing a bit of a jolt, as Scisenti notes. He declared that chocolate beat coffee as “the first stimulant encountered by the Europeans…up until then, Europeans were consuming only sedatives like beer, mead and wine.” And it was these stimulant properties that led to chocolate being used medicinally in both the pre-Columbian Americas and Europe.

As colonialism of the Americas changed its landscape forever, chocolate became a valued commodity in the Old World. Mainland European chocolate consumption was typically kept to the aristocracy, but in the 1650s, coffee/chocolate houses were established in England and chocolate “was readily available to any comers who could afford it,” as Sciscenti puts it. And the cacao tree began a journey to the other side of the globe. In this massive cultivation drive, it became apparent to these pioneering farmers that the cacao tree is a thoroughly tropical organism and quite fragile, so it must be kept in ideal conditions to survive and thrive: On land within 10 degrees north or south of the equator with lots of rain, shaded sunlight and loose soil.

Modern Chocolate Arrives
Chocolate as we know it today stems from a series of innovations in the 19th century when the basic elements of chocolate, cocoa solids and cocoa butter, were first examined by curious scientists. Refinement of the cocoa solids resulted in cocoa powder. In 1847, English chocolate maker Joseph Storrs Fry invented the chocolate bar (which would be considered dark chocolate by today’s nomenclature), by combining cocoa powder, sugar and melted cocoa butter and pouring it into a mold. In 1879, Swiss chocolate manufacturers Daniel Peter and Henri Nestlé added powdered milk to this mix, thus creating milk chocolate. The advent of conching and tempering processing techniques vastly improved chocolate’s texture and mass manufacturing spurred by the Industrial Revolution made chocolate accessible to every level of society.

It’s Actually Good For You
You would think that chocolate isn’t exactly good for you, but recent scientific research has revealed compounds in chocolate that promote health. Dr. Mindy Haar, Director of Clinical Nutrition at the New York Institute of Technology in Old Westbury cites flavonols, a compound that naturally occurs in cocoa beans. Dr. Haar says that flavonols “may act as antioxidants, which work against free radical formation and may act to reduce cell inflammation.” Also, preliminary studies have shown that chocolate helps lower blood pressure and reduces the risk of cardiovascular disease.

But only if you eat the right type and serving of chocolate. The milk in milk chocolate is thought to counteract chocolate’s flavonols, and the unhealthiness of the added sugar and fat is well documented. Dr. Haar’s recommended serving is “One ounce of dark chocolate with 70% cocoa…Using unsweetened cocoa powder in recipes where you control the sugar and fat is also recommended.”

A Different Type of Decadence
ealthy compounds in chocolate can also benefit the surface of the skin. Shanan Burke Lead, Aesthetician at Spa Exo’tique in Selden, explained that the “powerful” antioxidants found in chocolate help “[increase] blood flow and hydration, calming and soothing the skin.” William J. Ferro, Licensed Massage Therapist and owner of Desert Rose Massage and Spa, a business that provides massage and spa services to many top LI hotels declares chocolate to be “a very therapeutic treatment for the skin,” and the Desert Rose Signature Treatment is a tour-de-force of spa decadence, with a full body chocolate salt scrub to exfoliate the skin, a chocolate body mask and a 60 minute full body massage with chocolate oil, capped off by an application of chocolate shea butter as a moisturizer.

Lead specified that chocolate used in spa treatments “should preferably be dark chocolate and unrefined” and emphasized that the chocolate beauty concoctions should be made from “all natural ingredients.”

Chocolate isn’t necessarily an indispensable element in the spa, and Lead admits, “The fact that chocolate smells delicious has a lot to do with why people love to use it in spa treatments.” She says that spa patrons “will comment that they want to eat the chocolate during the treatment.”

And no, chocolate does not cause acne. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, the most prestigious dermatology group in the US, “Extensive scientific studies have not found a connection between diet and acne. In other words, food does not cause acne.” Acne is actually caused by excessive skin oil production brought on by hormone surges.

For Better or Worse
The end product might be delicious, but there are major issues of many types in the area of cacao tree cultivation. The World Cocoa Foundation puts the amount of cocoa beans produced worldwide on an annual basis at 3 million tons. 70% coming from the West African states of Côte d’Ivoire and Ghana and the remaining 30% from Indonesia and, of course, cacao’s ancestral home in the Americas. An issue with taking chocolate so far afield is the disruption of the synergy between the plant and the surrounding fauna. Joyce notes that in its beginnings in Mesoamerica, “chocolate was cared for in plantations that were integrated into local ecologies…small midges [insects] that pollinate cacao bred in the leaf litter around plants.” These insects did not follow the cacao tree’s odyssey around the world, so cacao tree cultivation outside of its true home is, as Joyce puts it, “ecologically hard on the environment.” Rainforests are also being destroyed to make room for cacao trees, with Africa and Indonesia clearing at minimum the same area as 25 football fields of rainforest each year, according to Scisenti.

Food for thought when you unwrap that next candy bar.

BITS:
The word “chocolate” was created by the Spanish and two prevailing theories say the word is a combination of the Mayan word “chocol” (meaning “hot”) and the Aztec word “atl” (“water”) or that it is from the Mayan word “chokola’j” (“to drink together”).

Conching: Agitation of the chocolate mass from a few hours to a few days to evenly distribute the cocoa butter, evoke flavor through frictional heat and make cocoa and sugar particles smaller, producing a smoother texture.

Tempering: Controlled melting and solidification of the chocolate to make the cocoa butter crystals into a uniform size, ideally a size that gives the resulting chocolate bar a nice sheen and a good “snap” when broken.

NASSAU

Rein
(516) 877-9385, Garden City
gardencityhotel.com
Rein offers a stylish hideaway from the harsh winter in the heart of the grand Garden City Hotel. An award-winning fine-dining establishment, this strikingly-decorated and intimate locale also boasts one the best bars around. Along with simplified selections of their lauded eats, Rein offers signature cocktails and martinis. Chief among them, the seasonal Winter Warmers: Mixed drinks that will warm you from the inside out. The Hot Winter Sangria, with red wine, brandy, sherry wine, Cointreau, hot water, topped with sliced oranges and apples, and the Pumpkin Pie of pumpkin cream liqueur, butterscotch schnapps, Kahlua, coffee, whipped cream and crushed hazelnut are two sweet treats you’ll gladly order as starters or desserts. 

NYC

Pipa
(212) 677-2233, Manhattan  
pipa-nyc.com
The hustle and bustle of Manhattan becomes muted inside this swanky tapas bar featuring chandeliers, exposed brick and swanky décor designed by ABC Home. Delicious aromas tease and tantalize as attentive servers deliver an array of reinvented Spanish small plates. Taste one of Pipa’s signature cocktails, including the Bliss, made with VeeV Açai Spirit, watermelon juice, simple syrup and black pepper (who would’ve thought?) or the Alma Rosa, which blends tequila, strawberry purée, lime juice and Fresita strawberry sparkling wine. You’ll definitely take note of Pipa’s biggest hit—the sangria. Whether you decide on red or white, both are absolutely delicious, loaded with freshly cut fruit and an extra kick. Pipa is worth a week’s advance reservation. 

SUFFOLK

Vitae
(631) 385-1919, Huntington
vitaeli.com
Huntington’s Vitae, with its sumptuous ambiance and beautifully-crafted Continental cuisine, has emerged as a major player in the area’s dining and nightlife scene. In the Lounge things are more casual, but the menu reveals considerable culinary innovation by Executive Chef Steven Del Lima. There is a delicious twist on a soul food meal—the braised short rib meatball “lollipops,” flash fried croquettes that are topped with horseradish crème fraîche, veal jus and pickled red onions for an extra kick. For an indulgent snack, try the Dirty Chips. You’ll never want a regular potato chip after devouring these house-made Yukon slices drenched with the yummy goodness of smoked bacon bits, scallions, blue cheese dressing and a touch of buffalo sauce. In addition to 1,400 bottles of wine, Vitae offers creative specialty martinis and cocktails. Taste the exceedingly fresh Strawberry Basil Crush cocktail—a blend of Stoli Strasberi, fresh chopped strawberries, lemon and basil, or the cool-weather-appropriate Red Delicious martini, a blend of Applejack, fresh apple cider, Pommeau, cassis and a cinnamon sugar rim as a final accent.

The succulent flavor of pear is proven to be one of the most desirable fruits with “A Pear to Remember” cocktail—another Prosecco selection mixed with pear purée and Combier Liqueur d’Orange. If you’re looking to stay longer than a drink or two, call ahead and reserve a table. Fine hors d’oeuvres are available along with exquisite champagne bottle selections. Ladies, put on your best stilettos and men, grab those loafers—you will feel the energy vibrate once the night gets going. The music gets louder after midnight mixing some old and new classics. Go for the plunge and pay the price to taste why the Bubble Lounge is the best of its kind. Salut!

Wherefore Arts?
(631) 239-5130, Huntington
Wherefore art thou, unknown Long Island music? It’s only unknown because you don’t know about it yet and it’s right here in your backyard—or actually, in a living room in Huntington. Tom and Robin Romeo have started a new platform for “under-known” artists, hosting classy “dinner and a show” house concerts and then webcasting them for the world to see. Check out whereforearts.com or call (631) 239-5130 for a concert schedule and reservations. You can prove your arty cred to your friends, eat a gourmet meal and hear an amazing new performer all in one night.

Live in the Lobby
(631) 207-1313, Patchogue
Patchogue quit its day job a few years ago to pursue music—and, let’s be honest, also to pursue beer. It seems to be working out, because local acts are packing the bars up and down Main Street. The historic Patchogue Theatre is at the heart of this, bringing music and art to the village as a volunteer-run, not-for-profit organization. Live in the Lobby is what it sounds like—a live concert series run out of the theater’s spacious lobby, with professional sound and an avid local following. And, yes, there is Blue Point beer on tap at the shows. For your next night out, skip SoHo and hit the South Shore instead.

The Cup
(516) 826-9533, Wantagh
If you like acoustic music and live on Long Island, The Cup is like a required course. Can you find a table big enough to play Battleship and order smushed pie in a mug? Can two guitars and a bass fit into the tiny corner stage area without falling into someone’s latte? Can you make it through a heartfelt acoustic version of “A Long December” without waving your chai in the air and singing along mournfully? Find the answers to these pressing questions at 3268 Railroad Ave. There will be a quiz.

We human beings have been hanging around mountains for thousands of years. Some of us hang around for the scenery and some of us to chill or to play. Some members of our tribe make the mountain sojourn to reflect on the fears that shackle us, those sometimes heavy burdens that weigh us down. And then there are those who go to the mountains to shatter fears and shed burdens.

The Seneca have an old saying about courage: It is not because things are difficult that we do not dare. It is because we do not dare that they are difficult. More recently, our very own cowboy/poet/philosopher John Wayne once expounded that courage is being scared to death…and saddling up anyway. I’m reminded of the latter because it’s written on the wristband given to me when I registered for the Skyrider Tour, which is, incidentally, billed as: “The longest, fastest and highest Zipline Tour in North America and the second largest in the world.” The Skyrider Tour is part of New York Zipline Adventure Tours at Hunter Mountain. There are other less extreme jaunts, like the “family-friendly” Mid-Mountain Tour or the Adventure Tower, but those are not on today’s agenda. Today’s itinerary involves being 600 feet in the air and traveling at 55 miles per hour for more than a minute. Today, we’re jumping off the side of a mountain. It’s probably a good time to mention that I’m not too fond of heights. “Breathe,” our tour guide prompts. “It’s good for you.”

For readers who may not know, the idea of a Zipline Adventure Tour is this: Go flying through the air high above the ground, compliments of a cable, a pulley (to which you are securely harnessed) and the blissful combination of gravity and aerodynamic maneuvering. It doesn’t take much skill, but it does take a short training session for safety’s sake and a bit of bravery to make that first leap. And what an amazing leap it is.

The idea of the zipline-as-incredibly-exhilarating-outdoor-activity started, according to our guides, in Costa Rica when scientists set up an elevated “lab” of sorts comprising a system of cables. High in the air, the scientists could study trees in a way they could never do on the ground. When the scientists were done with their research, they left the cables up and the locals who helped build them created what now seems like the coolest recycling project ever.

Owner Bradd Morse, a seemingly modest and soft-spoken man, keeps the Zipline Adventure Tours at Hunter Mountain open year round and mentions that he sees many Long Islanders come through its doors. While the foliage associated with the in between seasons is gorgeous and the summer zips across the mountain and over its celebrated music festivals (Google “Mountain Jam”) are, well, intoxicating, it’s the idea of the winter zip that gets our tour guides/prophets Doug Thies and Joe Burke excited. “You can see three days into the future,” Doug says.  ziplinenewyork.com

Made famous by Huber’s Café in Southwest Portland, OR, the Spanish Coffee is a hot drink that literally begins with a flame. While lighting a drink on fire can be a matter of showmanship and effect, burning spirits will warm your beverage, decrease liquid content and condense flavors, providing a unique richness that’s not possible with safer, more pedestrian pours. In this case, fire is also the vehicle with which sugar is crystallized on the glass. The Pulse Spanish Coffee replaces triple sec from the classic Huber’s recipe with the cognac-based, bitter-orange liqueur Grand Marnier for a more heady, aromatic distinction. Excellent after dinner, this concoction will warm the belly and add a little cheer to any winter evening.

INGREDIENTS:

1 oz Bacardi 151 rum
1.5 oz Kahlua coffee liqueur
.5 oz Grand Marnier
Coffee
Homemade Chantilly cream to garnish
Ground nutmeg
Lime
Granulated Sugar

Coat the rim of a tempered 8-10 oz Irish coffee or red wine glass in lime juice, then dip rim in sugar until covered. Add 151 and Grand Marnier to glass and carefully ignite with a long match or grill lighter. Swirl the liquid to help crystallize sugar, then add Kahlua, followed by enough coffee to fill the glass. Top with whipped cream and finish with a dusting of nutmeg. Serve immediately.

“No we will not lower prices or reduce the quality of what we serve. We will just do it better!” declared Matt Connors, in response to his wife’s quandary over the looming recession three years ago.

Eileen concedes, “We did just that and are doing well. Our customers still have special occasions and want to celebrate here. Others just want a fine dinner in the restaurant or at the bar. I respect Matt most for holding to his vision.”

Executive Chef/Owner Matt Connors, of The Lake House in Bay Shore calls his cuisine New American with French influence. When asked what he would do if he did not own a restaurant, he answered with confidence, “Run. Running is my life. I could easily own a running shop.” This is probably why it is easy for Matt to stay the course and maintain a quality establishment. He has the discipline of a runner.

“My parents were both excellent cooks and had an extensive library of cookbooks. The French Laundry Cookbook and Fredy Girardet’s Girardet: Recipes from a Master of French Cuisine are my favorites,” Matt said as he retrieved a well-worn copy of Girardet.

He started working in high school at La Mascotte in Commack, a traditional French restaurant. Jean Claude Denner and Andre Guillet were mentors at The Culinary Institute of America. Time spent at Wolfgang Puck’s, Postrio in San Francisco and experiences at Arcadia, Gramercy Tavern and finally, Veritas in New York City, prepared him to open his own place.

“When a deal fell through in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, we came out to visit my parents and saw this space, previously The Duck Pond Inn. It was in disrepair, but it had possibilities and we worked to make this happen,” Matt reminisces.

And now with Eileen serving as hostess and Phil Brown behind the mahogany bar near a roaring fire, it appears to be true. The breathtaking view of the duck pond, and cozy rooms with tables and banquettes trimmed with chocolate-brown and ice-blue accents set the mood.

Co-Chef Charles Treadwell and Connors, friends with similar culinary backgrounds, are a team in the well-organized kitchen. Outside, they participate in The Farm at St. Peters, a cooperative where they grow and harvest fresh vegetables to serve in season.

“A chef must be an intuitive cook, one who can be thrown ingredients and know how they react to heat and combine to taste good. The whole process starts with imagining the taste and understanding how different textures and flavors contrast and complement. For instance, our striped bass is a nice meaty fish, served with braised leeks, truffle smashed potatoes with truffle foamy emulsion. Charles and I decided to surround it with a port wine reduction to give it acidity as a contrast. Unusual, but it makes the dish.”

Chef Matt Connors is pacing himself serving unpredictable fare and he’s making great time. 

Signature Dish : Roasted Wild Striped Bass with Truffle Smashed Red Potatoes.
“This is one of the first specials offered when we opened The Lake House. It was received so well that it remains on the menu to this day.”

Roasted Wild Striped Bass with Braised Leeks, Truffle Smashed Fingerling Potatoes, Mushroom Emulsion and Port Reduction

Serves 4
Preheat oven to 350 degrees for leeks.

For the potatoes:
1 lb fingerling potatoes, skin on
½ c heavy cream
2 tbsp black truffle butter
1 tbsp truffle oil
1 tbsp chives, minced
Bring heavily salted water to a boil, boil potatoes for 20 minutes, until fork tender, drain and let cool. Crush with the back of a spoon. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, heat the remaining ingredients with potatoes over a medium flame, stirring occasionally. Cook for 5 minutes until cream has thickened. Keep warm until ready to plate.

For the mushroom emulsion:
2 c mushroom stock, preferably homemade
2 tbsp black truffle butter
2 tbsp crème fraiche
1 tbsp truffle oil
Salt to taste
In a large saucepot, bring all the ingredients to a simmer over a low flame. When ready to use, buzz quickly with a hand blender and use the foam only for plating.

For the port reduction:
1 c ruby port
1 c red wine vinegar
In a small sauce pot, over a low flame, simmer together the port and vinegar until thick and syrupy. Set aside.

For the leeks:
4 leeks, washed and split, white part only
2 tbsp unsalted butter
½ c chicken stock, preferably homemade
1 sprig fresh thyme
Place all the ingredients in a small roasting pan, cover with foil tightly and cook for 45 minutes in the preheated oven. Keep warm and set aside.
For the Fish:
4 8 oz filets of wild striped bass, skin removed, about 1” thick
2 tsp Wondra flour
salt and pepper
2 tbsp unsalted butter
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Flour and season filets with salt and pepper. Place filets flour side down in the butter and oil in a very hot sauté pan until lightly browned. Finish in the oven in the same sauté pan for 8 to 10 minutes at 450 degrees. Plate fish with potatoes, leeks and mushroom emulsion. Drizzle port reduction around the dish and serve.

Seasonal Vegetable Salad With Soft Poached Farm Egg, Creamed Chanterelles, Grilled Asparagus and Humboldt Fog Goat Cheese

Serves 4

For creamed chanterelles:
1 c chanterelles, cleaned and sliced
1 tbsp unsalted butter
1 tbsp shallots, minced
¼ c Madeira
2 tbsp crème fraiche
1 tbsp truffle butter
1 tsp truffle oil
1 tbsp chives, minced
Juice of ½ lemon
In a large sauté pan, medium flame, melt butter and sauté mushrooms for 4-5 minutes until soft. Stir in shallots and Madeira, and bring to a gentle simmer. Allow the Madeira to evaporate and then add the remaining ingredients, stirring gently to coat the mushrooms. Cover to keep warm and set aside.

For the egg:
4 organic or free-range large eggs
Water
¼ c white vinegar
In a sauté pan, bring water and vinegar to a gentle boil. Drop in eggs and simmer for 4 minutes, or until the whites are set. Scoop out and drain onto paper towels. Keep warm and set aside.

For the asparagus and salad:
1 bunch asparagus, stemmed and peeled, grilled lightly
2 c baby arugula, washed and dried well
½ tbsp shallots, minced
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Juice of ½ lemon
4 slices brioche bread, buttered and toasted
½ lb Humboldt Fog Goat Cheese, sliced into 4 equal slices
Salt and pepper to taste
In a large bowl, toss together the arugula, shallots, oil and lemon juice, season with salt and pepper.

To assemble:
On a dinner plate, place ½ cup arugula salad, top with goat cheese slice. Place ¼ of the asparagus on plate and spoon creamed chanterelles over them. Place warm egg next to the asparagus and serve with warm toasted brioche. Season with salt and pepper.

You need not be Sherlock Holmes or possess any special investigative powers to identify a really bad restaurant. They virtually announce themselves from first contact and follow through to the presentation of the bill. Their flaws are apparent.

First tell: Make a reservation, even if you don’t need one, even if you’re going to a restaurant on a rainy Tuesday night and will be the only people in the dining room with one. There is no better way to evaluate a restaurant before you get there than taking note of how they handle your request. If they don’t know what they’re doing, if they can’t get your reservation straight, if they sound like they’re a messy, disorganized operation, they probably are.
If they are careless and unconcerned about your reservation, their food and service will probably reflect those characteristics as well.

If any of the following happen to you, reconsider:

• You call and are put on hold, sometimes forever with nobody
ever answering.
• Although the restaurant is open, your call is taken by an
answering machine. You might or might not get a return call.
• Your call for a reservation is taken by someone who asks you
to call back at another time.
• The person who answers can’t find the reservation book
therefore is unable to record your request.
• Your reservation is taken by a curt, cold, unfriendly person
who does not thank you for calling.
• Your reservation is taken by someone who forgets to ask your
name, time of arrival or number of people in your party.

These things rarely happen at good restaurants whose reservationists are pleasant, informed and appreciative, which brings us to your arrival at the restaurant. In that last instance, you may well be told they have no record of a reservation in your name—­worse yet they have no tables available.

Another bad omen is the absence of a greeter, which is somebody at the entrance to the dining room to welcome and seat you. Instead you are left standing and unacknowledged as members of the waitstaff scurry by without even a nod in your direction.

Once (finally) seated, the first morsel, the first impression of the restaurant’s food comes when the breadbasket arrives. If it contains only cottony, mass-produced bread and rolls from a commercial bakery rather than diverse, interesting ones from makers that take pride in their customized products, you are probably in for a long, lackluster night. Accompanying brick-hard butter that defies powerful fork thrusts is another no no. The two butter patties wrapped in foil are fine for a diner, but another bad sign at a supposedly quality restaurant.

If you need to use the facilities before eating only to find them dirty and messy, imagine what the kitchen looks like. Yes, there is a correlation between the two.

Now we are ready to eat, but there is no water in the glasses or offer to fill them. A look at the menu discloses that at a time when there are entirely gluten-free restaurants, when even baseball stadiums offer gluten-free food stands, there is not a single gluten-free dish listed. That tells us that the ownership and/or kitchen either isn’t “with it” or doesn’t care. There’s also no salt or pepper on the table. No matter how gifted the chef, no one can possibly season every dish correctly for every diner. Taste varies greatly from person to person. That’s why these condiments should be on every table without diners having to ask for them.

Speaking of being forced to ask for something that should be automatic. If the waiter who recites the nightly specials fails to mention their prices, the restaurant forces diners to question how much each one costs. Good restaurants know that it is their responsibility to give this necessary information to their patrons without making them ask for it. Bad restaurants don’t.

It shouldn’t be difficult for a trained waitstaff to know who ordered each dish and deliver it to the proper person. So if dishes have to be auctioned off, as in “Who ordered the turnips?” you know you’re not dealing with polished professionals. Yet another negative indication comes when busboys clear plates while one or more diners at the table are still eating, thereby putting at least subtle pressure on them to eat faster and to finish.

Speaking of plates, warm or even hot ones have their place, but that place is not when they contain fish, especially delicate, thin, flaky white-fleshed fish. Cooking fish requires a keen eye and gentle touch that is nullified by hot plates that continue to cook them into a dry, overcooked condition.

Closing salvos that reveal that amateurs are at work include no request by your server for a coffee or tea order and an unrequested check plunked down on the table at meal’s end or even during the dessert course. That’s OK for an inexpensive diner where the turning of tables and high volume is necessary to stay in business, but not at a pricier, upscale, more prestigious spot where it is yet another indication of a less than well-run restaurant.

Perhaps the Dalai Lama of bad restaurants that I experienced occurred at an Indian restaurant where we were given a bill, even before we ordered and then a second one before we received our appetizers. The topper came the next morning when I passed by and looked into its window and saw stacks of dirty dishes covered with flies. It gets my “ick” vote for worst bad restaurant.

Dance the Night Away:
DONS & DIVAS

FOUR/TWO
An evening out on Long Island should involve the best of both worlds—a striking dining experience in a lively atmosphere. Long Islanders spend their nights wisely when they head to either one of Jay Grossman’s two masterpieces: Four Food Studio and Two Steak & Sushi Den. Each captures distinctive tastes within unique spaces. Four attributes its atmosphere to mother nature with a casual yet elegant dining experience featuring American cuisine. Two explores the brilliant combination of steak and sushi wrapped in a chic dramatic vibe. Both of these modern restaurants orchestrate a remarkable experience that sets the standards for New Year’s Eve. Two offers both an à la carte menu or, for the dancers, a buffet, open bar, champagne toast and DJ from 8:30pm-midnight for $60 per person at the restaurant’s lower level. Four offers a variety of packages. For those in it for the long haul, the Sit, Stay and Play ($125) covers the festivities from 7pm-2am. Abbreviated options are also available for those less die-hard.
Four, Melville (631) 577-4444, fourfoodstudio.com
Two, New Hyde Park (516) 358-2222, twoonline.com

Roslyn Chalet
Attention NYE experts! Your quest for a private party in a public place has been answered. The Chalet offers room rentals for 10-15 people in its intimately appointed den-like space. This 5-hour event includes open bar, dinner and champagne toast. Smaller groups can join the festivities at 9pm for $100 per person.
Roslyn, (516) 621-7975, roslynchalet.com

SUGAR
For both demanding tastebuds and “be-seen” socialites alike, this radiant den and lounge keeps the crowd delighted. The scene is one of the best you’ll find on Long Island if you are looking for pulsating music and a place where guests groove atop couches, tables and platforms. TKA, the kings of freestyle and the Lords of New Year’s Eve, will be on stage to ring in the New Year. DJ Serg will spin the best house, hip hop and top hits. Sugar is offering two separate packages—Silver and Gold. The Gold offers a buffet dinner and the sweet Silver offers an open bar starting at 10:30pm. Hold off your New Year’s resolutions until after the celebrations and let your sweet tooth enjoy some of the fun. Sip on luscious candy-like cocktails from the Charm-tini to the Black & White Cookie.
Carle Place, (516) 248-7600, sugarli.com

Big Night in NYC

Avenue
Avenue is an ultra-lounge complete with an exclusive and privileged scene of A-listers and socialites. The wood paneled décor, plush ottomans and soaring ceilings provide the perfect ambiance in which to celebrate the New Year. General admission and separate VIP options differ with cost and exclusivity.
NYC, (212) 337-0054, avenue-newyork.com

Capitale
Capitale is a majestic backdrop for the perfect New Year’s Eve. European charm and dramatic architecture makes this gem one of NYC’s best spots. Dance the night away among the towering Corinthian columns and marble mosaic floors. General admission and separate VIP options differ in cost and level of exclusivity.
NYC, (212) 334-5500, capitaleny.com

Cipriani
This NYC landmark owns the night boasting rich history and gorgeous architecture. Cipriani 42nd Street is a classic destination in which to surround yourself in opulence and perfection. Step into the New Year at this Manhattan masterpiece. General admission and separate VIP options are available.
NYC, (212) 499-0599, cipriani.com

Juliet Supper Club
If you know how to party, you’ll start the New Year off at Juliet Supper. This high-energy soirée exudes the glitz and glam of NYC. The décor of this top-notch club resembles a jewel box and focuses on offering a unique evening.
NYC, (212) 929-2400, julietsupperclub.com

Pranna
Welcome 2012 at Pranna, the perfect oasis with one of the best nightlife spectacles in NYC. Featuring a sleek vibe and various rooms, partygoers are able to mingle throughout the impressive 15,000 square foot space. General admission and separate VIP options differ with cost and exclusivity.
NYC, (212) 696-5700, prannarestaurant.com

STK
STK is a seductive vamped up steakhouse turned lounge by the late evening in the Meatpacking District. Your New Year’s Eve will be alive at this supreme haute spot that pulls in the who’s who of NYC. General admission and separate VIP options differ in cost and level of exclusivity.
NYC, (646) 624-2444, stkhouse.com

Good Vibes:
Moods & Music

Huntington Social
Huntington Social may be the newbie on the block, but this bustling town has been waiting for a place like this. On the corner of New York Avenue and Main Street, the hidden gem sits on the second story overlooking the town. This is your place to spend New Year’s Eve if you are looking for a way to celebrate on the smaller, more intimate side in the lounge’s speakeasy atmosphere. There will be two seatings held at 7 and 9pm of fixed-course dinners with different options. The later seating will include midnight festivities that feature a champagne toast, open bar, live music and dancing. Guests that want to celebrate but skip dinner may enter at 11pm to enjoy the late night action for a cover at the door.
Huntington, (631) 923-2442, huntingtonsocial.com

The Paramount in Huntington
The Paramount theater may not seem like the venue to spend your New Year’s, however doing something different is what it’s all about. This brand-spanking new venue is full of entertainment and character with a downtown vibe. Dennis Rodman (yes, the former b-baller) will be the main event on New Year’s Eve DJing with Vic Latino on The Redemption Tour. This spectacular show includes special guest Mia Martina who sings the hit “Stereo Love.” Check online for tickets and pricing.
Huntington, (631) 673-7300, paramountny.com

Spend the Night:
Stately Manors

The Garden City Hotel
The luxurious Garden City Hotel provides a spectacular countdown to the New Year with two options for an extravagant evening held in either the hotel’s Rein restaurant or the Grand Ballroom. Starting at 8:30pm in the private dining room, a jazz trio will accompany a five-course meal paired with five exceptional wines. Guests can watch Times Square light up on any of the four flat screens while they also enjoy an open bar for $250 per person. An elite gala dinner being held in the Grand Ballroom kicks off at 8:30pm with cocktails and hors d’oeuvres for an hour followed by an evening of live music including the best current dance, rock and throwback 80s hits until 2am. The evening also includes a delectable three-course meal and open bar for $195 per person. Afterwards is the option to spend the night (and play it safe) with the New Year’s Eve Overnight Extravaganza package available for $695 per couple including champagne and chocolate-covered strawberries, gala dinner, overnight accommodations and breakfast buffet the next day.
Garden City, (516) 747-3000, gardencityhotel.com

The American Hotel
Known as one of the finest dining establishments in the Hamptons, this Sag Harbor hotel offers the perfect cozy, Victorian-like setting to countdown to the New Year. Their French-American cuisine is perennially lauded and the exceptional wine selection of more than 1,000 bottles is recognized by Wine Spectator annually—the American Hotel takes its wine seriously. This landmark venue is a charming way to celebrate the holiday with the option of staying overnight.
Sag Harbor, (631) 725-3535, theamericanhotel.com

Montauk Manor
Drive out to The End and soak in the quietness of the off-season. The Montauk Manor is a gorgeous English Tudor hotel that has many deluxe amenities including an indoor pool, day spa and fine restaurant. The Manor’s New Year’s Eve package is a minimum two-night stay that includes dinner and brunch the next morning. Rates differ depending on amount of people and room-size.
Montauk, (631) 668-4400, montaukmanor.com

Happy Halls:
Classic Caterers

Chateau Briand
Standards are high at Chateau Briand, a lavish catering hall in the center of Nassau County. From the moment you walk into the grand lobby, the modern-art deco vibe blends with elegance to set the perfect scene to ring in the New Year. Four different tiers of celebrating offer guests the option of customizing the evening to fit their own style. Enjoy an extensive cocktail hour starting at 8:30pm and a sit-down dinner while listening to a live band until 2am. If you are into dancing to the hottest hits, join Body Rock DJ Entertainment during two separate time frames: 9pm-2:30am or 9:30pm-3am. If you prefer to skip on the sit-down dinner, start your 2012 with the late-night party beginning with an extensive cocktail hour and buffet dinner at 10pm and going until 2:30am.
Carle Place, (516) 334-6125, chateaubriandcaterers.com

Fox Hollow Country Club
Woodbury’s Fox Hollow Country Club is the perfect destination for an eventful New Year’s Eve. Whether you plan to spend the night or just celebrate until the wee hours, you will enjoy a full cocktail hour, premium open bar and extensive dinner menu, which includes live entertainment from either 7:30-1pm or 8pm-1:30am depending on your time slot. Another option for partying is at The Somerley, set apart from the main estate, where a delectable menu, cocktail hour and dinner reception including a dessert lounge featuring the best exotic chocolate, dessert wines and even more tantalizing sweets are on the agenda. This party runs 7pm-1am with live entertainment and light show by Body Rock DJ. Overnight accommodations for a variety of suite packages include a bottle of champagne and breakfast buffet on New Year’s Day.
Woodbury, (516) 921-1415, theinnatfoxhollow.com

East Wind
Out on the East End where farms and vineyards reign, Wading River’s East Wind Caterers provides some glitz to the quaint locale. On New Year’s Eve, join in for a tasteful dinner spread and an evening of dancing the night away. DJ Tommy’s Tunes Entertainment will make the final hours of 2011 memorable. A five-hour premium open bar including a midnight champagne toast with a live simulcast from Times Square pulls the night together. The night begins at 8pm and lasts until 1am and overnight accommodations are available.
Wading River, (631) 929-3500, eastwindlongisland.com

Festive Affairs:
Distinctive Dinners

Danfords
Danfords nautical hotel and marina is the laid back option for New Year’s Eve if you are looking for an evening involving spectacular views and delicious food. The end of your 2011 can begin with dinner arrangements at Wave Seafood Kitchen at either 6 or 9pm for a four-course meal ($89 per person). Dine while listening to a live jazz band overlooking the distant twinkles of Connecticut. If you are looking to extend your evening, take advantage of Danfords hotel package that includes overnight accommodations, four-course dinner for two and breakfast buffet on New Year’s Day (starting at $449).
Port Jefferson, (631) 928-5200, danfords.com

Tellers
Tellers is a glamorous steakhouse with dramatic architecture both inside and out. The 30-foot ceilings and tremendous columns that outline the building enhance your overall experience at this charming venue. Spend an enticing evening with a five-course meal after 9pm (regular dining beforehand) including a champagne toast and of course dancing until the wee hours. If that doesn’t do it for you, think about the wine vault that houses more than 10,000 bottles. Festive? Check. Elegant? Check. Perfect? Check.
Islip, (631) 277-7070, tellerschophouse.com

Lombardi’s
Take advantage of living on Long Island: Ring in the New Year overlooking the water. Kick off 2012 at one of the most beautiful locations on the island—Lombardi’s on the Bay. Their New Year’s Eve Candlelight Ball features a sit-down dinner, open bar, DJ and dancing with a live simulcast of Times Square in the background for $150 per person. The night starts off at 8pm and continues until 1:30am.
Patchogue, (631) 654-8970, lombardisonthebay.com

** PRICES LISTED DO NOT INCLUDE TAX AND GRATUITY

Pulse Ginger Dragon

Gin and Tonic has its origins as a medicine, developed in the 18th century by the British East India Company to treat malaria, utilizing the quinine in tonic water. Highly bitter by itself, gin was added to make the medicine more palatable. Throughout the centuries, mixologists have come up with countless variations on the recipe. Here’s our take, a redheaded stepchild of the Dragon Gin and Tonic:

INGREDIENTS:

2 oz gin
4 oz tonic water
2 pinches of ground ginger
1 pinch crushed black pepper
1 splash of Grenadine
1 lime

Mix the ginger and gin in a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake vigorously for about six seconds. Strain the mixture into a highball glass with some ice until half filled. Add tonic and Grenadine. Top with crushed black pepper to taste (yes, pepper, trust us). Garnish with a lime.

JAKE’S STEAKHOUSE
East Meadow (516) 222-8400

Restaurants and food fads come and go. When was the last time you ate nouvelle cuisine at a French restaurant? Even Chinese food at a straight Chinese eating-place that doesn’t offer Japanese and/or Thai dishes has become a rarity. Past favorites like chicken à la king and baked Alaska have virtually disappeared from restaurant menus.

Yet, one uniquely American dining institution has persisted. It has weathered all the light-eating, healthy-eating, low-calorie, low-cholesterol warnings and advocacy. Yes, the all-American steakhouse retains its popularity, masculinity and celebratory essence.

Although there are many more Italian restaurants and even newfangled Asian Fusion spots, the steakhouses continue to offer substantial, no surprise, man-sized portions of solid favorites like huge steaks, lamb and pork chops, crab cakes, mashed potatoes, creamed spinach, hashed browns and French fries. They rarely fail and, every once in a while, a new one opens. All of which brings us to Jake’s Steakhouse that opened in July in East Meadow and figures to be around for a while. Owners Margaret Ryan and Tony McGinley have done it right by bringing in a high-powered kitchen duo, Rick Laakkonen, the consulting chef who lists destination restaurants like The River Café, Petrossian and Delmonico’s as well as three-star Michelin restaurants in Europe on his resume, and Executive Chef Chris Hamaty, an experienced Long Island hand who spent the last four years as the very successful Executive Chef of Blackstone Steakhouse in Melville.

The two of them are churning out simple, straightforward, unfussy, understandable dishes. Flamboyant carnivores should target one of the stars on the menu, a humongous hunk of 35-day dry-aged, prime, bone-in rib eye cowboy steak ($44). It, like all the big beef dishes here, is from the most outstanding farms in Schuyler, Nebraska. The tender, slightly smaller, sliced-from-the-bone t-bone steak ($36) is its equal. Nor should the American rack of lamb ($39), with its four good-sized, crunchy herb crusted chops, be overlooked. Less expensive ($24), but also quite satisfying, were soft, deeply-flavored, braised, boneless beef short ribs with scallion mashed potatoes, sweet corn, green beans and roasted cherry tomatoes.

The starters that preceded those entrées included: A sturdy, full-bodied onion soup ($8) with a not-too-thick Swiss cheese cap alive with brisket and croutons; a thick, hefty rasher of grease-free, Applewood smoked bacon ($9) presented with a fingerling potato salad, pickled mustard seed and watercress; respectable clams casino ($10) crowned with seasoned breadcrumbs; and a wedge salad ($8) featuring two iceberg lettuce mountains with a noteworthy blue cheese dressing and a sprinkle of bacon. Side dish ($7) successes were rich creamed spinach and enough smooth mashed potatoes for four.

Among the house-made desserts were a standard crème brûlée ($8), a luxuriant, circular blueberry cheesecake ($8), a velvety bar of chocolate mousse ($9) and a modern (and commendable) version of strawberry shortcake ($8), an egg-shaped layered sponge cake, strawberry mousse, chocolate syrup affair with a separate batch of strawberries and whipped cream.

Physically, Jake’s, with its dark-wood wainscoting, cylindrical or barrel-shaped lighting fixtures, candles and leather-covered booths is pleasant, low key and neutral. Service was informed, alert, attentive, though occasionally intrusive.

photos by stephen lang

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LAVERNE OF GREAT NECK
Great Neck (516) 829-8200

Things are looking up at 9 Cutter Mill Road in Great Neck. Until a few months ago, the deservedly short-lived Bangkok Station occupied this storefront. Now that space is where Laverne of Great Neck, a Japanese, French-Fusion and Thai restaurant, has set up shop. Laverne began life in Westbury, then closed about two or three years ago before popping up again in the center of Great Neck. It represents a huge improvement over the former tenant. Its diverse Asian and European dishes create an agreeable culinary coexistence.

The unpretentious Laverne, with its bare tables, sushi bar, dark-wood walls punctuated with a band of silver and gold tile, serves everything from pad Thai, sushi and sashimi to steak frites and coquilles St-Jacques. Despite a few French possibilities, Laverne could be mistaken for a Japanese restaurant.

Though fewer, the Thai, French and cross-cultural preparations give a good accounting of themselves. The steak frites ($19), for instance, is a true fusion dish at a time when that term is often thrown around carelessly. The superior sliced sirloin steak is combined (and enhanced) with an addictive Asian sauce. Unlike restaurants that serve various standard ethnic dishes and call them fusion, Laverne really fuses two different cuisines. Just below the steak listing is a noodle section that offers great values and substantial portions. Among them are commendable versions of pad Thai ($10), Thailand’s signature dish, Kwyatio pad gai ($10), a stir fry of thin, crispy noodles with chicken, vegetables and lime leaf and drunken noodle ($11), broad rice noodles, basil, onions, bell peppers and chicken, shrimp or tofu. Pay no attention to the red peppers next to their listings signifying spiciness. While all three are tasty treats, there is not a hint of heat or kick in any of them. Not every dish was absent of heat, though. The commendable, big (and I mean big) tuna sandwich ($13) supplied the promised spicy tuna. Yet three non-spicy seafood selections were among the best picks. Try the Paradise crab meat ($11), a lovely layered meld of salmon, avocado, scallions and baked king crab; the flaky, fresh almost floating on air Chilean sea bass ($22); and the medley de coquillages ($28), a colossal plate full of excellent shellfish.

Among the starters sampled were a standard array of fresh sashimi ($10), a predictable lobster salad ($10) of lobster and fruit flecked lettuce, flying crab ($14), a fortuitous mix of shrimp tempura, spicy tuna, avocado crowned with a tender whole soft shell crab tempura napped in a sweet sauce and magret de canard ($14), a starter that sounds French, looks Asian and tastes good.

Oh, yes, for an authentic French appetizer, target coquilles St- Jacques ($11), soft, buttery scallops in a nest of thatched, deep fried noodles.

Meals at Laverne begin with complimentary, thin, crisp, delicate sweet potato chips. Pairing them or most other dishes with honey ginger tea is also a good idea (although I only drink hot tea when I’m ill, this brew was a hit).

Western desserts dominate the sweets. We tried the small, but light, tangy, full-flavored key lime pie ($6.95) with its graham cracker crust and plenty of real whipped cream; the moist, tender Caramel apple tart ($6.95) featuring crisp, ripe fruit; a light grease-free portion of banana spring rolls ($5); and a so called Thai chili molten chocolate cake ($6.95) that’s a commendable but standard version (forget the Thai chili business).

Although there are few food failures at Laverne, the fried ice cream ($4.95) qualified as one. Its rubbery dough wrap stuck together preventing diners from eating manageable, small bites. Additionally, diners should not expect knowledgeable wine service or all the dishes in each course to arrive at one time.

photos by stephen lang

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ARA INTERNATIONAL GRILLE & BAR
Saint James (631) 656-6363

Like Willie Sutton, who said he robbed banks because “That’s where the money is,” knowledgeable foodies find good restaurants by following good chefs. They keep tabs on the movement of outstanding kitchen commanders and go to their restaurants. They correctly figure that if an executive chef who moves hit a home run previously at one or two eating places, he probably will again.

That brings us to Dino Vlacich, an excellent, rising, young chef who deservedly made a name for himself at Mio in Roslyn, went on to do a commendable job at Luce in East Norwich and is also associated with Bin 107 in Saint James.

As a result, his new digs, Ara International Grille and Bar in Saint James is understandably drawing notice from diners in the know. This two-story, white-tablecloth spot with a balcony, soaring ceilings adorned with billowing fabric, candles, giant-sized fir trees and plants galore, is where Intermezzo had been. Cool jazz filled the bar on a recent weeknight at this hushed, civilized eating place.

Every starter and dessert, plus three of the four entrées sampled, were bell ringers. Give strong consideration to the deep bowls of soup that are among the least expensive starters. A rich lobster bisque ($12), with delicate slivers of lobster meat and a touch of sherry and roast corn, and chicken chowder ($8), harboring chunks of chicken and gobs of flavor, are both recommended (though the crispy tortilla chips the menu promised with the chowder never materialized).

Fruits are used liberally in main dishes to good effect at the Ara International Grille. A fresh and fine gorgonzola salad ($8) is dotted with fresh orange and dried cranberries as well as walnuts and smooth, superior cheese. Fried Peruvian bay scallops ($10) are lightly crusted and come with a cool, tangy Dijon mustard sauce.

Only a pork chop ($23) that was impregnable even with a big heavy steak knife failed at entrée time (it came with a nice apple-cranberry compote, sweet potatoes and green beans). Duck and fruit were made for each other, and the roasted duckling ($26) here arrived in a creative tangle of mixed berries and orange slices as well as red cabbage and butternut squash.

Pastas priced in the uppity $20 to $26 range included a simple, straightforward, perfectly-cooked cavatelli ($20) with a Bolognese style meat sauce. Potato crusted cod ($24), enhanced by caramelized onions and firm green beans, had a pleasant, semi-sweet flavor. Although the wine list here is pricey with no bottle under $30 and a top of $135, wine service was clueless. Our waiter neither showed us the bottle nor offered a preliminary taste. That comic opera service and a very difficult-to-read, dark menu in a dimly-lit dining room were two of the rare flaws encountered.

Desserts ($9) were not among them. They included: An apple strudel with slightly tart apples and vanilla ice cream, a perfect combination; a chocolate mousse cake that was everything it should be; a brittle crusted Linzer torte holding glorious raspberry and whipped cream; and a colossal, circular tiramisu garnished with whipped cream and chocolate.

photos by stephen lang

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After Prohibition was repealed on December 5th, 1933 at 4:31pm, President Franklin Delano Roosevelt declared, “What America needs now is a drink.” Prohibition is a hot media topic lately, with HBO’s Boardwalk Empire and Ken Burns’ documentary Prohibition on PBS, and continues to shape the way we buy alcoholic beverages. The reasons for our flirt with “temperance” (aka: “the noble experiment,” Herbert Hoover’s description) are not understood clearly by most people, including myself. Politics surround all parts of Prohibition, from the run up to it (temperance movements preceded Prohibition by close to 150 years), to its passing, legislation, repeal and aftermath. Today there are still residual legislative adjustments, lobbying dollars and criminal political activity going on.

Prohibition opened many slivers of business opportunities (all seemed to be illegal), while trying to close just a few. For instance, the story of George Remus, a former attorney and bootlegger in the Cincinnati area who took advantage of a loophole in the laws governing the 18th Amendment that allowed alcohol to be prescribed by doctors and to be carried by pharmacies. George bought many of Cincinnati’s bonded distilleries (shut down and locked up after ratification of the 18th). He then started a pharmacy and began “selling” the alcohol from his distilleries to his pharmacy. The trucks making the deliveries were then hijacked by his own people so the alcohol could be sold to bars and restaurants illegally for bigger profits.

Gambling and prostitution get attention, but the fact that the proprietors of those “dens of disrepute” used alcohol as a social lubricant to increase revenues from those two activities is a subtle undercurrent. There are still laws on the books about gambling and prostitution, and selling alcohol. The use of free alcohol to get men to spend more on prostitutes and gambling was an important part of the economy of a saloon before (and during) Prohibition. This is still the case in states where gambling is legal and in Nevada where both are allowed. In New York, all wholesale prices must be posted with the state 45 days before each month, no free goods are allowed, all samples must be labeled as such, and producers and wholesalers can’t give anything away to help sales (game tickets, gift cards, product, trips, etc.). All sales, pricing, deals and payments are overseen by each state’s Alcohol Authority.

Prohibition made plenty of people very rich, and when it was repealed, many of the same people had the power and money to help massage the new laws about alcohol so they would continue in very lucrative businesses.

What’s all this got to do with wine? It is this history and the resulting laws that make it difficult to get wine shipped directly from wineries to our homes in many states and expensive in the states where it is legal. It is illegal for a consumer to buy wine in one state and have it shipped to many states, including New Jersey, Massachusetts and Pennsylvania, in other states there are strict laws about how much and what type of permit is needed.

Today, instead of smoky, backroom deals involving gangsters protecting their illicit businesses, we have a legal form of the same thing being done in government buildings, again with a small group of powerful people protecting their profits.

NASSAU

harbor Q
(516) 883-4227, Port Washington
harborq.com

While Keith Dorman, owner and executive chef of harbor Q, is a “smoker of nine years,” his implement, a Southern Pride XLR-600, does not contain carcinogens, nor can it be purchased at a neighborhood bodega. Dorman’s industrial wood-pit barbecue, capable of 600 lbs of meat per cooksesh, produces an amalgamation of authentic regional styles described as “outside the paradigm of dancing pigs and neon lights.” Examples include North Carolina-style pulled pork, Kreuz Market Texas smoked beef sausage, and the Hawg Leg, pork osso bucco glazed with apricot/peach and smoked for 14 hours. The space, constructed with pieces of metal and wood salvaged from an overseas shipping container, pours crafts “from every style” to complement “every single meat.”

“Stone Brewing Company Smoked Porter and Orkney Skull Splitter pair well with our brisket,” says Dorman.

The Leaky Lifeboat
(516) 804-9870, Seaford
facebook.com/theleakylifeboat

The Leaky Lifeboat is punk, albeit not for certain discernible visuals associated with the subculture present within its four anchor-adorned walls (see: ink-sleeved limbs and Pabst Blue Ribbon). The Leaky Lifeboat embodies punk because it is defined by a similar experiential ethos, one which embraces moral sense and compassion for others, and rejects injustice.

“We formed The Leaky Lifeboat as a safe place for rock kids and those who felt rejected because we have lived it and wanted to feel safe and accepted and comfortable,” says Eric Finneran, who, with Sal Mignano, owns The Leaky Lifeboat. Finneran and Mignano, former partners at Broadway Bar in Amityville, host all-local art exhibits (eg: Art is Hard on 7/23/11) because they “love art and artists.”

The duo acquired the space adjacent to The Leaky Lifeboat, formerly Phatso’s, in late October and hope to open “Long Island’s first vegan/vegetarian fast food eatery.”

Punk.

Genesis of moniker: “Last Summer, Sonic Youth was playing and I was trying to get Sal to join,” recalls Finneran. “He said ‘I hope they play “Leaky Lifeboat (for Gregory Corso)” 15 times in a row,’ which he knew was my least favorite song off the new album. So I said, ‘We just named the bar.’ He agreed that was it.”

SUFFOLK

North Fork Oyster Company
(631) 477-6840, Greenport
northforkoystercompany.com

If one alters the theme song to Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles by substituting “oyster” for “turtle,” a recurring line becomes: “Heroes in a half-shell! Oyster power!” Example of “oyster power” via North Fork Oyster Company: “Within 10 miles of our restaurant, we have at least three oyster farmers who have products in Michelin-rated kitchens in New York,” explains executive chef, Alex Algieri. “The main difference is, I get them delivered the day they are harvested by the growers.” Algieri, who supports the “growing trend toward cultivated fish” on the east end of Long Island, now with “over twenty-five oyster farms producing some of the best oysters around,” utilizes neighborhood calamari, cod, flounder, and striped bass for his plates, often paired with variations of produce “almost entirely local from April to November.”

North Fork Oyster Company also pours four permanent Greenport Harbor Brewing Company draughts (10/18/11: Black Duck Porter, Harbor Ale, Leaf Pile Ale, and Other Side IPA). “They are our neighbors, our friends and our community,” says Algieri, of Greenport Harbor Brewing Company. “We want them to be successful because that will help our entire community to be successful. Plus, we love the beer.”

Food/Beer Pair Matrimony: nut-crusted local flounder, sweet potato purée, braised leeks & anise honey with Greenport Harbor Brewing Company Black Duck Porter

Huntington Social
(631) 923-2442, Huntington •
huntingtonsocial.com

A second-floor gastro-speakeasy by Christopher Lee, executive chef, formerly of Aureole. Lee, a Huntington native, and his three partners (Frank Bruno, Kevin McCaughan and Larry Rizzo) present velvet booths, grilled fontina with braised short ribs, vintage chardonnay (eg: Ramey Wine Cellars’ Ritchie Vineyard 2007) with optional locker service for subsequent visits and craft draughts/bottles. According to Jeff Ruskaup, general manager, Huntington Social hopes to entice the patron who demands “better quality” with “craft beer, classic cocktails and higher-end wines.”

“Different is good, right?” adds Ruskaup.

Monthly three-course prix fixe on Tuesday, tag-teamed with a craft brewery (October = Captain Lawrence Brewing Company). Note: The bathroom wallpaper is patterned with stogie-totin’ monkeys.

Click here to follow Niko Krommydas and his blog, Super Neat Beer Adventure, Yes!!, where you can find more on the Long Island craft beer culture.

Huntington Social photo by Stephen Lang

Carlyle At The Palace
(516) 756-1600, Plainview
carlyleatthepalace.com
Jetsetters get ready, here’s a quick escape to South Beach on Long Island. On the border of Nassau and Suffolk Counties is Carlyle At The Palace—a party with style and flair. Before dancing the night away, grab dinner at Deco 1600, conveniently located under the same roof. Dine in front of the toasty fireplace on those extra brisk evenings and experience a delectable Italian-American meal. The ultra-friendly waitstaff provides helpful recommendations and options to share with a big group, which is definitely the way to party at the Palace. Capture everyone’s attention at this new nightclub draped in white sheers and chic chandeliers. The Palace fits perfectly into the night owls’ schedules with its accommodating bottle service and unique drinks. White plush couches and seats dominate throughout this sultry spot. Projector screens amplify the scene with black and white visions of drinks flowing and bodies moving. Thursday nights are for the ladies! (Men are still welcomed, obviously at your own risk.) Grab your girls and your best dress for an unforgettable evening. Cheers to a newbie worth trying! 

Mint Restaurant & Lounge
(516) 307-8677, Garden City
mintny.com
Mint Restaurant & Lounge celebrates Indian cuisine with a vibrant lounge set in tranquil architecture. The refreshing herb chosen as the restaurant’s name derives from the main ingredient incorporated in each dish. Roosevelt Field Mall is lucky to have another hotspot to visit after a long day of shopping. With the holiday season upon us, it’s perfect to kick back at this stellar bar and watch Tushar (a bartender with a serious passion) create a spectacle. Ask for the Flaming Lamborghini, as flamboyant as the car itself. Their most popular mint-tini is the Lychee Martini (for good reason). This delicious cocktail is a perfect mix of Grey Goose, lychee liqueur and juice with a touch of Chambord. Careful, this one tastes so good you’ll order more than one. Feel like doing some good? Sip on the (Belvedere) Red cocktail that consists of apple and cranberry juices mixed with the vodka’s (Red) bottle—50% of their profit goes to The Global Fund to support AIDS & HIV programs. Now that’s a drink that will have you smiling! Large groups should consider the Super-tini, equivalent to three cocktails served in a massive martini glass. Each martini on the menu can be made into this monstrosity. Corporate happy hour is Monday through Friday, 4-7pm, be sure to stop by. City lovers can head west to Mint’s sister at 50th St. 

NYC PICK

Bubble Lounge
(212) 431-3433, NYC
bubblelounge.com
Champagne can make any given night more enticing with the dramatic pop of a cork and bubbles overflowing. Who says you need to be celebrating a specific occasion for a toast of the good ole bubbly? The Bubble Lounge is a champagne salon in the fashionable neighborhood of TriBeCa. This classy downtown lounge features 300 types of champagne including unique specialty drinks by the glass. An extra special sipper is the “Champs-Élysées” topped off with a hibiscus flower. This combination of Caposaldo Prosecco and Domaine de Canton Ginger Liqueur cures a long week.

The succulent flavor of pear is proven to be one of the most desirable fruits with “A Pear to Remember” cocktail—another Prosecco selection mixed with pear purée and Combier Liqueur d’Orange. If you’re looking to stay longer than a drink or two, call ahead and reserve a table. Fine hors d’oeuvres are available along with exquisite champagne bottle selections. Ladies, put on your best stilettos and men, grab those loafers—you will feel the energy vibrate once the night gets going. The music gets louder after midnight mixing some old and new classics. Go for the plunge and pay the price to taste why the Bubble Lounge is the best of its kind. Salut!

NASSAU

The Breakers
(516) 628-9690, Bayville
This soundside Bayville eatery is happening in both the winter and the summer. Live music and seafood are the buzzwords at this bar. Open mic on Wednesdays, blues jam on Thursdays and live bands every Saturday night.

Whoville
(516) 931-9296, Bethpage
A “delightfully dive-y” bar and grill that is all about partying and having a good time. These guys have a full jazz orchestra every other Thursday and live music every Saturday, along with miscellaneous special events throughout each month—often with the proceeds going to a local charity.

SUFFOLK

Lily Flanagan’s
(631) 539-0816, Babylon
This old school Irish restaurant and pub features American favorites and traditional Irish dishes. Live bands during happy hour on Fridays, and live Irish music on Saturdays and Sundays. Drop in for a taste of Ireland at an affordable, casual place.

The Old Mill Inn
(631) 298-8080, Mattituck
Built in the early 1800s, this converted grist mill combines old world charm with classy cuisine. They feature local acts in the bar every Saturday, as well as dinner cruises around the beautiful Mattituck Inlet.

This year, the Winter Solstice takes place on December 22nd. It marks the precise point in time when the days stop getting shorter and start getting longer. Religious celebrations are frequently associated with solstices, the Winter Solstice being no exception. Many celebrations surrounding the Winter Solstice have a theme of death and resurrection, no doubt connected with the symbolic “death” and “rebirth” of the sun. During such celebrations, friends and relatives gather together to share food, fire, warmth and song. Christmas is the premier Winter Solstice event in the so-called Western world, complete with a death and resurrection theme, family get-togethers, caroling, log burning (in fireplaces with chimneys for Santa) and lights. The theme of death and rebirth, ends and beginnings, even extends to the demise of the old year and the initiation of the new one that takes place, along with intense celebrations, on New Year’s Eve.

Last year was unusual in that there was a total lunar eclipse—a “death and resurrection” of the moon—on the same day as the Winter Solstice. This is a rare and special occurrence, something that happens only once every several hundred years; it was an event well attended by Wiccans and other Pagan groups. Although not as rare, upcoming celestial events are no less special:

* The Geminids, considered one of the best meteor showers of the year, reach their peak between December 13th and 14th, with some meteors being visible from the 6th through the 19th. One can expect up to 60 multicolored meteors every hour. Look for these meteors in the Northeast skies late in the evening. Best viewing is after midnight.
* The Quadrantids peak around the 3rd and 4th of January, with a radiant not far off the handle of the Big Dipper. About 40 meteors per hour can be expected. Again, these meteors are best observed after midnight.
* Jupiter will ride high in the early evening skies. Look for it in the South-Southwest where it will pass through Pisces. Jupiter is hard to miss, as it is one of the brightest objects in the heavens.
* Neptune and Uranus will also grace the early evening skies, but these planets really do require a telescope to observe.
* Orion will be rising in the South-Southeast skies in the early evening. If you have access to a telescope, or even some good binoculars, you can observe the famous Orion Nebula, a region of active star formation.

Hmm… let’s see. What can I tell you about the Classic Stage Company that you can’t find out by using your smart phone or the computer screen on which you might be reading this? That is the task of modern relevant journalism, isn’t it? To bring to readers an experience they cannot obtain via the interworld? The website offers you all the logistics, facts, and necessary blurbs, how the Off-Broadway space has been open for 40+ years, how it gets terrific and well-deserved reviews, and how the philosophy is to re-imagine classic texts for contemporary times. All of these things are true. And it is also true that a production of Anton Chekhov’s last play, The Cherry Orchard, will run through the good part of December, thus making complete a cycle of the great Russian writer’s works in the East Village’s theater row.

It’s been a good run. The intimacy that the space provides is incomparable and must be a total delight for serious artists. I’ve had the pleasure of seeing partners-in-Classic-Stage-crime-and-more Maggie Gyllenhaal and Peter Sarsgaard in stunning interpretations of Uncle Vanya and Three Sisters during the cycle. Seeing them here in this tiny magical space versus in film or on TV is similar to seeing a lion in the wild versus a lion at the Bronx Zoo. Great actors (who seem to be attracted to Classic Stage) come alive in ways we haven’t seen here. Their troubles are heavier, their rebellion is fiercer, and their love throbs so hard you can feel their heartbeats in your chest. Here the King and Queen of the Jungle roar. I wonder what kind of barbaric yawp John Turturro will serve up in The Cherry Orchard across from Oscar-winner Dianne Wiest and a story that’s ripe for our times.

The truth is, all of Chekhov’s plays resonate in this post-economic collapse (and still collapsing?) world of fed up-ness and protests and calls for action. Who’s better than Anton for stories involving snapshots of a society about to change or changing and characters that can’t seem to handle it? “Everybody hurts,” says Michael Stipe after (perhaps?) walking out of a Classic Stage Company production a long time ago. And everybody can’t afford mortgage payments so everybody is about to sell an estate or two and everybody is looking for love and meaning in a modern world. Perfect for winter reflection. And cold nights. And vodka. Wonderful and sublime. Vodka. And a well-crafted mirror for our time. classicstage.org

As 2011 turns to 2012, the LI food scene has managed to augment already hot trends and come up with interesting new ways to present true gastronomic artistry.

Fifth Season in Port Jefferson (631) 477-8500 is providing a “local epicurean experience,” as they so eloquently word it. And the perfect distillation of their vision is seen in the Fall 2011 Dinner Prix-Fixe (with wine pairings), available all December. Unique offerings abound with the first course including a butternut squash, goat cheese and wild mushroom napoleon with a chive oil and wild mushroom demi-glace, a second course featuring mole braised short ribs, sautéed kale, creamy polenta and pickled vegetables and the third course option to bookend the meal with a napoleon comprising cinnamon poached pear and toasted almonds. $28 per person plus cost of wine or $36 a person with unlimited wine. 

Red in Huntington (631) 673-0304 breaks new culinary ground with “The Chef’s Spontaneous 7-Course Tasting Menu”—one of the first instances on Long Island of pure culinary improvisational offerings. After notifying the chef about allergies or dislikes, he will take you through an odyssey of seven courses, apps, entrées and desserts all hinging on his whims at the moment of creation. Everyone at the table must participate (minimum of 2 diners) and you must allow at least 2 ½ hours for the entire repast. $85 a person.

Wantagh’s culinary bounty is notable with two Japanese-influenced restaurants providing interesting Eastern delights. Check out Showa Hibachi (516) 785-0558 Monday to Friday from 11am-3pm for their Combination Bento Box special—boxed lunch, Japanese style. It contains miso soup, salad, California roll, beef tempura marble, white rice and a choice of either vegetable tofu teriyaki for $8, chicken teriyaki for $9, beef, salmon or shrimp teriyaki for $10. In addition to their lauded steak and seafood, one of Thom Thom’s (516) 221-8022 more unique offerings is the $12.95 “Sushi Pizza,” composed of a sushi rice pizza shell, tuna, salmon, kani kama, cucumber and jalapeño.

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Recently, after a well-deserved vacation in Paris, Steven De Bruyn treated his wife to a birthday dinner at Rouge Tomate on the Upper East Side. “It was a perfect evening. The sommelier, Pascaline Lepeltier, paired two wines with each course and asked if she could go out of the box. The cuisine is organic and sustainable and the wine selection amazing. Perfect food paired with the perfect wine makes fireworks. And believe me it was just that—culinary fireworks.”

Steven De Bruyn, Certified Belgian Master Chef, is Executive Chef and Wine Director of Rein, the chic-casual signature restaurant in The Garden City Hotel. He appreciated Rouge Tomate because he has the same philosophy. His cuisine is New American with touches of Classical French. Organic, sustainable and local produce and wine are offered when available. Managing the extensive and well-staffed kitchen and the menu for the restaurant, along with brunch, tea and special events is a major challenge. Adding Wine Director to his job was important to his vision to offer the finest cuisine paired with the finest wine.

Unaware where his education would lead, he entered boarding school at fourteen and persevered. Hotelschool Koksijde ‘Ter Duinen was a top culinary school in Belgium. Steven was honored with his first of many awards, winning the accolade of the Best Junior Chef in Belgium. Later he was inducted into Les Maîtres-Cuisiniers de Belgique, a society of master chefs, and was recently asked to cook at the James Beard House.

“Master Chef Pierre Fonteyne of Restaurant Bruegel in Belgium left the biggest impression on me. I also worked as chef de cuisine at Restaurant Jean-Claude Ferrero in Paris. But my striving for perfection came from Claude Dupont. I served as pastry chef and chef de partie at his restaurant in Brussels. It was almost a military style training. Everything had to be perfect. There was no room for just okay.

“At 21, I was burned out. When an offer came from Club Med for executive sous chef in Bermuda, a dream job, I grabbed it. I met my wife, a girl from Brooklyn, at Club Med in Florida. We then moved to Belgium and shortly after I got a call offering me a sous chef position at The Garden City Hotel. It seemed like destiny that we return to America.”

When asked to describe his life now in one word, in any of his three languages, Chef De Bruyn said in English, “Busy!” And then in French, “Intéressant!” And finally in Flemish with a glint in his eye, “Leuk! (Fun). Well, it is, above all, fun to do what I do!

“I want people to know that I am not mean. I am a perfectionist, but not mean. Chefs are all a little crazy, especially pastry chefs. It must be the sugar,” he said as he winked at his accomplished Executive Pastry Chef David Lugo.

Signature Dish

“My Favorite: Roasted Chicken with Roasted Root Vegetables. This is a very easy, healthy and tasty chicken preparation that is perfect for a cold winter night and involves little cleanup. The choice of vegetables may vary. I have added acorn squash or delicata squash or even brussel sprouts halved. The Fig Cinnamon Jam is an add-on and if you have never tried making preserves, you will find it very easy.”

Ingredients:

One, 2 ½ pound chicken
3 carrots, peeled, cut diagonally in 1 ¼” pcs
2 Small turnips, trimmed but not peeled, cut in wedges
1 parsnip, peeled, cut diagonally in 1 ¼” pcs
1 celery root, peeled and cut in a rough 1” dice (serrated knife works best)
6 shallots or any small onion (cippollini, pearl), peeled cut in half or left whole for the small ones
6 fingerling or baby Yukon Gold potato, washed well and cut in half
2 rosemary sprigs, leaves chopped (save the stems)
1 small bunch of thyme, leaves removed (save the stems)
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
8 whole garlic cloves, unpeeled
Fleur de Sel salt and ground black pepper
½ Tbsp dried Greek oregano
1 sage sprig
Fresh parsley or chives

Method:

1. Preheat the oven to 425°
2. To prepare the chicken, wash and dry off with paper towel
3. Stuff the cavity with 2 whole garlic cloves, the sage leaves, stems of rosemary, thyme. Salt and pepper the inside of the chicken.
4. Place the chicken in an ovenproof dish that is lightly oiled. (Large rectangular Pyrex or a turkey-roasting pan for two chickens.)
5. Season the chicken well with Fleur de Sel and pepper. Place the chicken in the center of the pan
6. Mix all the vegetables and herbs with the vinegar and olive oil.
7. Season with salt, pepper and scatter the vegetables around the chicken.
8. The layer of vegetables should not be too thick or they will not brown well (For one chicken I use a Pyrex dish 10 x 15.
9. Place a piece of butter on top of the chicken and 1 piece of butter on top of each leg. After ½ hr, mix the vegetable with a wooden spoon.
10. Place pan in oven and cook for 1 hr, if you have a meat thermometer, insert by the thigh and remove at 155°. Let sit loosely covered with tinfoil so it continues to cook for 10 more minutes.

This is a very easy, healthy and tasty chicken preparation that is perfect for a cold winter night (and not much cleanup to add). The variety of vegetables may vary; I have added acorn squash or delicata squash or Brussels sprouts halved.
If you noticed that the legs are not fully cooked, you can put them back in the oven, after you remove them from the chicken. Also make sure the vegetables are done by piercing with a wooden skewer or paring knife. Sprinkle the dish with chopped chives or parsley before serving

Fig Jam with Cinnamon

At The Garden City Hotel, Chef Steven De Bruyn makes all the jams and preserves for our Saturday Afternoon Tea; it’s a great way to use figs that are in season. The jams are all natural—no added pectin or additives. Late summer and fall is a great time to make the preserves this way you can enjoy them all winter long; they also make unique gifts for the holidays, enjoy!

2 # Black Mission figs
1 # Sugar
2 lemons
½ Cinnamon stick (finely grated with a Microplane grater)

Methods:

1. Wash the figs gently and wipe them carefully with a paper towel.
2. Cut off the hard stems and quarter them.
3. Put them in a stainless steel pot with the sugar and grated cinnamon.
4. Let sit for ½ hr.
5. After ½ hr, add the lemon juice and bring everything to a simmer.
6. Cover with parchment paper and refrigerate overnight.
7. The next day, bring everything to a simmer, while stirring from time to time and let cook for about 30 minutes or until the liquid starts to thicken slightly (you can check the thickness by pouring a spoonful on a cold plate it should hold its shape somewhat and not run to quickly).
8. Pour into a clean jar, cover and refrigerate a few days before you open it.

It was during the November of 1500 that Nicolaus Copernicus first observed a Lunar Eclipse. In a more recent November, this time in 1966, the Lunar Orbiter 2 sailed off to image the dark side of the Moon and search for potential landing sites for Apollo lunar missions.

A message was broadcast from the Arecibo radio telescope on November 16th, 1974. The goal was to tell listeners on far away worlds about our home planet. Frank Drake prepared the message with the help of Carl Sagan. Sagan, of course, is an astronomer as well as the author of Contact, the novel upon which the same-named film was based. Carl Sagan was born on November 9th, 1934.

The evening of November 12th, 1833, marked the discovery of the Leonid meteor shower and the birth of modern meteor science. On that date, the Leonids put on an incredible fireworks show over Europe.

* The Leonid meteor shower will peak on the 17th and 18th of November, with about 40 meteors per hour, although some meteors may be observed anytime between the 13th and 20th of the month. As usual with meteor activity, best observing is after midnight. The shower is caused by debris left behind by the comet Tempel-Tuttle, a periodic comet that appears once every 33 years.
* Orion, the most famous winter constellation, will once again grace the early evening skies. Orion is noted for being the home to many nebula and star-forming regions. Look for it in eastern skies after 9:30pm.
* Jupiter will ride high in southeastern skies. It will be one of the brightest objects and cannot easily be missed. Nearby will be two bright asteroids, 2002 UX 25 and 2001 UR 163.
* On November 8th, an asteroid 1,300 feet in diameter—YU 55, will pass within .85 lunar distance units to Earth. It poses no threat. However, asteroids this large only pass close to Earth about every 30 years!
* Uranus and Neptune will be up, but best viewing is with a powerful telescope.

With the countless cultures represented on Long Island, there are countless opportunities for trying new things—not to mention exploring the depths of the classics.

Rangmahal

“You should only serve what you would eat yourself,” is the mantra owner-chef Arun Verma and his wife Kusum have adhered to during their seventeen years at this unassuming glass-plated storefront—and they mean it.
Read Full Article
     

Gemelli Ristorante

Owned and operated by Giorgio and Patricia Cosentino, progeny of the immigrant elders who have held forth at the food market and Italian epicure under the Gemelli name in the village since 1988, the restaurant is true to the family legacy and the cultural influences they picked up while living in “the old country.”
Read Full Article
     

Le Soir

Leave the casual “bistro style” eateries for lunch, brunch or quick early evening bites. Le Soir is for the night (as the name suggests), meaning it’s an authentic setting for your next dinner rendezvous.
Read Full Article
     

Café Havana

Three short years ago, Puerto Rican born Jose Maldonado Jr. paired up with Chef Ramon Perez, who hails from Cuba originally. The result is an eatery offering cuisine that is solid, well-textured country fare.
Read Full Article
     

Churrasquiera Bairrada

Welcome to the real deal, packed wall to wall with all walks of life Portuguese restaurant.
Read Full Article
     

Nisen

Welcome to the place where eclectic is an understatement. Nisen may look like a typical (or not so typical) high-end sushi place, but it is much more.
Read Full Article
     

The Living Room c/o The Maidstone

Admit it, you’ve never eaten Swedish. Those meatballs you thought were different? They weren’t even close to Scandinavian, were they? This is your chance to redeem yourself and finally taste the cuisine you’ve inadvertently been ignoring.
Read Full Article
     

Rangmahal
South Broadway, Hicksville
INIMITABLE Indian

“You should only serve what you would eat yourself,” is the mantra owner-chef Arun Verma and his wife Kusum have adhered to during their seventeen years at this unassuming glass-plated storefront—and they mean it. They boast refusing to accept any payment for any meal diners find less than 100% satisfactory at their innovative, not fusion, family restaurant. It results in leagues of happy customers and consistently favorable Zagat reviews year after year.

You’ve tried the usual masala this, curry that, now go for the gold. Start with Tandoori Paneer Tikka, a sweetish cheese delicacy that’s cooked on the outside, soft on the inside. Chicken Biryani is rice mixed with chicken chunk, onion, coriander, peppers, cashews, raisins, almonds and a very special Indian cinnamon. It is cooked “dum,” meaning over a slow heat, covered with a wet cloth and lid to allow the steam to circulate the juices within. Tandoori Chicken here is par excellence. It is marinated overnight and cooked fresh every morning to bring the spices fully to life (you’ve never tasted garlic like this before) and keep it moist. For a taste of the sweeter side, go with any sauces based in apricot, ginger or green apple.

Desserts, which you will be hard pressed to find elsewhere, include Resmalai, an eggless cheesecake concoction of Indian paneer (specialty cheese) dipped in milk and dressed with pistachio and rose water. Wash it down with sugarless mint tea or tea of the special cinnamon (warning, it looks like tree bark but it’s sweet).

Key ingredients: Love, passion, coriander for garnish, anise, pomegranate seeds, turmeric, garlic, ginger, onion, tomatoes and Verma’s unique blend of 50 spices he secretly mixes every morning.

Truth: Tandoori refers to the method, not the spices.
A Tandoor is a clay oven in which food is cooked slowly.

False: Curry is a spice.
No! It is actually a mixture of spices that range wildly depending on chef, geography, influence et al.

Gemelli Ristorante
East Main Street, Babylon Village
Casual and Classic Italian

You could spend a lifetime eating your way through Italian restaurants on The Island, but how many can claim authenticity? At Gemelli, guests are struck by the genuineness of the place right off the bat: Quiet Italian music plays from speakers while patrons speaking in Italian at the bar sip from an indigenous wine list. The house is fashioned after a Mediterranean villa with cream walls recalling plaster, gently-hued exposed brick, terra cotta floor tiles and sea foam painted atrium. Owned and operated by Giorgio and Patricia Cosentino, progeny of the immigrant elders who have held forth at the food market and Italian epicure under the Gemelli name in the village since 1988, the restaurant is true to the family legacy and the cultural influences they picked up while living in “the old country.”

The secret to great classic Italian? According to Giorgio, Gemelli is about simple food done right: “Italian food is one of the best known in the world, one of the most loved, but one of the simplest.” A walk through the modest kitchen reveals a limited assortment of ingredients—the old fashioned staples of tomatoes, onions, garlic, mushrooms and flaked seasonings are front and center. The pans are marked with the dings of use. There’s no pomp of exotic elements or experimental cross-cultural earmarks back here. And it carries back to the plates served out front. Most sauces, like the pomodoro, are made to order. The secret, Giorgio says, is “you have to listen to it. You have to feel it.”

Star Ingredients:
Gemelli’s zucchini: Giorgio’s dad brought it home from Italy 17 years ago. Every season they pluck the fruit from the Babylon garden, dry the seeds, store them for the winter and replant. And of course, garlic (culled from one consistent source), tomatoes and basil.

Best Bites:
Zucchini Flowers Appetizer
(from that famed plant)
As big as zeppelins, the flowers are stuffed with ricotta, spinach and romano cheese (for the salt), finished with parmesan and gently sautéed. The waiter will joke through his accent, “the weight watchers’ special.”

Ziti with Pomodoro Sauce
Plum tomato sauce made to order with sautéed garlic, a touch of “pasta water” (the starch thickens the sauce) and a dash of salt. AKA: pizza margherita with pasta and basil.

Fettuccini with Veal Shank
Braised in onion, carrots and celery until melt in your mouth perfection. Red sauce and basil to finish.

Shrimp Scampi
The shrimp are complemented with asparagus and plated over risotto and lemon.

Dessert
Granny Smith apples peeled and pan seared with butter and cinnamon.

Limoncello
Don’t ask, just get some. Giorgio makes it there.

Le Soir
Montauk Hwy, Bayport
FANTASTIC French

As far as French restaurants go, Long Island is simultaneously blessed and cursed. Cursed because we have so few authentic ones, but blessed because the few we have are the real deal, Francophile at the helm variety. Among them is Le Soir. Leave the casual “bistro style” eateries for lunch, brunch or quick early evening bites. Le Soir is for the night (as the name suggests), meaning it’s an authentic setting for your next dinner rendezvous.

Let’s start from the back forward. Chef Michaël Kaziewicz, originally from Limon, France (in Burgundy, to be exact) and his wife Jasia have owned Le Soir since 1977. It is a testament to the operators’ ability to consistently deliver tasty, truly good, food “as advertised.” Patrons rely on the establishment to be what they expect time and again, and Le Soir does not disappoint.

From the moment you enter the light, open, airy restaurant with white walls and tablecloths accented by dark, wood beams, lace curtains, exposed brick and elegant impressionist paintings, you sense you are in a tasteful, not stuffy, little French country cottage that does not give way to fads. The owners are in it for the long term, conscious of value for the money as well as taste and freshness, and it resonates with the mature foodie crowd that packs in even on a Sunday night.

Don’t expect tiny portions and impossible-to-eat towers of art. This is classic, bourgeois cuisine. Honest and open, hearty and finessed…suffice it to say, truly French.

Star ingredients:

Basic veal bone and veggie stock (used as a base for sauces, demi-glace and steak au poivre), garlic butter, onion soup and foie gras.

Standouts:

Pâté de Campagne: Super fresh, plated with mini gherkins, silver skinned pickled onions and chive bits. Perfect after a kiss of salt, made only better by a touch of mustard.

Potato leek soup: Smooth, light and fresh because it’s more leek than potato.

Quail with braised polenta: This is exquisite quail—not greasy, fatty or gamey—stuffed with shallots, mushrooms and a little bit of liver with a pickled cherry sauce and plated over braised polenta.

Rabbit over fresh linguini: Perfect “lapin” cooked up with caramelized fresh onions and lardons, melded together in a flavorful sauce that’s practically a broth.

Of course: Duck l’orange, clams, escargot, frog legs. This is French cuisine, just do it already.

PS. All entrées come with soup, salad and dessert and the homey waitstaff encourages doggie bags. The gentle jazz lapping from the speakers is free.

Café Havana
West Jericho Tpke, Smithtown
Cuban

Wise people start their weekends on Thursday nights. Those wiser still start them at Café Havana. It is ultimately a simply-decorated restaurant that delivers big on personality, food and ambiance. Three short years ago, Puerto Rican born Jose Maldonado Jr. paired up with Chef Ramon Perez, who hails from Cuba originally. The result is an eatery offering cuisine that is solid, well-textured country fare.

Similar to the cuisine of other Central and South American countries you may recognize—ceviche, paella, arroz con pollo—the menu is nonetheless distinguished by an assortment of authentic plates that will delight any meat lover. Chicken, steaks and pork are front and center, but do share the stage with seafood to an almost equal degree. Not surprisingly, whole fish, shrimp and scallops all make multiple appearances. And plantains, yucca and rice and bean options are never far behind.

Although the music, art and culture of Cuba are known to err on the fiery side, the food does not, making it very accessible to those with more delicate palates. The eatery is packed with festive congregations of nationalities, descending from countries both south, east and west of our own. And the music, ranging from live Cuban horns and congas to Latin DJ dance beats beckons from the dance floor to complete the scene. Those ready for a vacation, albeit one night, will rejoice about not needing to worry about passports and visas.

Star Ingredients:
Yucca, Plantains

Appetizers:

Chicken Pincho
Think of a chicken kabob speared into pineapple. Sweet, tangy and juicy.

Yucca Mojo
Textured, firm yucca in garlic butter.

Plenty of white bread with sweet plantain butter.

Entrées:

Ropa Vieja
Juicy, tangy, zesty shredded beef in a tomato based sauce with chunks of onion and pepper.

Seafood & Chorizo Paella
Earthy, smoky chorizo meets peas, clams, mussels, lime and yellow rice.

Pernil Mofongo
Roasted pork in garlic and herbs—the ultimate peasant meal. Not refined, complex layers of taste but honest, stocky and wild.

Dessert:

Havanas Bananas
Banana fritters made crispy and crowned with powdered sugar and vanilla ice cream.

Coconut Pie
An “I can’t stop eating” coconut custard pie meets coconut ice cream.

Signature Cocktail: Coconut Water Martini
But the red sangria is outstanding and deserves the bragging rights. A pitcher will not be lost on parties of three or more.

Churrasquiera Bairrada
Jericho Tpke, Mineola
Portuguese Rodizio

Welcome to the real deal, packed wall to wall with all walks of life Portuguese restaurant. The waiting area is adorned with equal parts big screen TVs, local plaques of distinction and ceramic roosters. And wait you will if you show sans reservation. We had 30 minutes to study the unsuspecting roosters one random early Sunday evening. Rumor has it this is fairly typical almost any time Bairrada’s doors are open, so plan well.

This is an everyman place—diners’ footwear is your tell: A surreptitious glance at the floor will yield everything from flip-flops (male and female, old and new), loafers with and without socks, sneakers, golf shoes, ballerina flats, glittering high heels…well you get it. It’s the kind of place that serves birthday cake with a unique sax rendition of “Happy Birthday” while onlookers clap and sing along.

Crusty peasant cornbreads and olives make their way to the table right behind you. And country salad (iceberg lettuce, tomatoes and onion shreds in simple white vinegar) is close behind.

Stars of the menu are Chanfana à Bairrada (oven roasted kid goat marinated and cooked in a pot for a full day) and Leitão Bairrada (suckling pig roasted for at least three hours on a spit). Both hail from the region that gives the eatery its name, and both are prepared in minimum supply (1-2 of each per day) rendering them unavailable at 7pm on the Sunday in question. Note to the wise: Arrive early.

Green soup is a creamy, light, white base with collard greens and smoky ham chunks. Rodizio is the parade of meats you’d expect at any such “Latin grill;” here the eight various samplings are supremely succulent and finger licking good red meats, chicken and pork. Febras de porco (pork loin) is three simple fillets with a lemon wedge grilled just to the point of firm tastiness. Accompaniments are complete and don’t have to be requested. Black beans, French fries, white rice with carrots and peas and one fried banana, steamed carrots and broccoli, chopped onion completed by vinaigrette that is like a sweet, chunky salsa. Beware: Hot sauce is as billed—hot. And the flames continue to grow. The food is as fresh as can be and it’s served up in more or less bite-sized portions. And before you know it, there’s none left.

From here, there’s only one place (or two) to go. Molotoff is an enormous, sky high, egg white and sugar molded sculpture in a meringue like concoction. Natas-do-céu is a vanilla cream with cookie crumbs, heavy crème, egg whites, caramel and cookies.

Nisen
Jericho Tpke, Woodbury
Pan Asian and Then Some

Welcome to the place where eclectic is an understatement. Nisen may look like a typical (or not so typical) high-end sushi place, but it is much more. True, the edamame come out to welcome you just as you sit down, but that doesn’t mean they’ll chart your tastebuds for the duration. Chef Terrence Cave is offering a menu that is as slick, well heeled and internationally inspired as the fashionable venue owners Tom Lam and Robert Beer have designed.

The easiest way to handle the cuisine is to start right here in the USA and work your way around the world. Belon oysters are an oversized Maine harvest that flourish from September through December, so now’s the time. Originally from France, they happen to like it better here. And you’ll be glad. Served raw, on the half shell, they are steaky with only a hint of brininess, and no significant saltiness, benefiting from three accompanying sauces: Green Nisen hot sauce (shishito peppers and jalapeños), Cocktail sauce with charred jalapeños and Mignette (classic French shallot and black pepper sauce in aged sherry and red wine vinegar). Overnight braised shortribs come with roasted shallots on top and nutty turnip purée underneath.

Go Italian(ish) with parmigiano reggiano risotto with chorizo and Maine lobster that is smoky, earthy and rich, though loose enough to enjoy, and dancing with a hint of green herb oil. Head east, as in Far East, for a Haunting Roll (the signature sushi plate of the season) and enjoy the harmonic explosion of Japanese pumpkin tempura, shrimp, mango, black caviar, Kataifi (shredded phyllo), wasabi aioli and passion fruit coulis. Yes, all of this in every bite. No, you don’t have to like sushi to love this.

Finish in Long Island’s antipode (well, almost the opposite point on our planet). Wagyu beef is a staple where it originated, in Japan, but it makes its way to our shores from Australia. This unusual specialty is made up in artisanal salts, hard seared (thin, char-crisp outside; tender, juicy, rare inside), to yield a mini steak that is tangy, sharp, beautiful and served over melt in your mouth foie gras.
Last stop: Dessert. Fried oreos with green tea ice cream is like a zeppole cocoon with a softened Oreo middle. Poached pear in cinnamon and port wine is so meaty you could get confused, if the pumpkin ice cream and hot fudge weren’t there to remind you what you were doing.

Chef’s secrets: Shallots, thyme, rosemary, parsley, sage, chervil, chives, red wine, cayenne, salt and pepper.

The Living Room c/o The Maidstone
Main Street, East Hampton
Suddenly Swedish

Admit it, you’ve never eaten Swedish. Those meatballs you thought were different? They weren’t even close to Scandinavian, were they? This is your chance to redeem yourself and finally taste the cuisine you’ve inadvertently been ignoring.

Before coming into the care and nurturing of Swedish hotelier Jenny Ljungberg in 2008, The Maidstone Arms was holding its own as a fashionable, as well as historic, Hamptons spot. The new owner brought with her new ideas and levels of chic, seamless hospitality management. In The Living Room, she infused the richness of her native land to meld with nouveau Hamptons cuisine steeped in the slow food philosophy.

Potato leek soup with roasted garlic and smoked salmon oils is earthy and soft, but defined, with a hint of smokiness at the surface. Swedish Raraka is a light, fresh lacy potato pancake (like a formal cousin of hash browns) with crème fraiche, golden whitefish caviar and finely chopped red onions. The salad special on one particular night put bacon lardons in the limelight atop frisée greens, blue cheese, sherry vinaigrette, red onions and tangy soft boiled eggs seated where you’d normally find croutons.

Entrées are rich and rewarded. Köttbullar (aka Swedish Meatballs) are made of lamb punctuated with zesty seasonings in a very light tomato sauce with ricotta, egg and parmesan gnocchi, and coiffed with cheese and kale. Berkshire pork tenderloin is super tender, ginger-green onion-garlic goodness grilled on super high heat and joined by potatoes whipped as smooth as milk, peppery mango and wilted pea tendrils.

Top it all off with The Living Room’s signature toffee date cake that’s sweet, light, cinnamony, warm, homey, honey, nutty stickiness. Berries over a buttermilk biscuit with crème fraiche are snaps of nature’s treasures over crunchy, airy wafers.

Chef’s favored staples: Herring, golden whitefish (caviar), menu changes to fit the season.

I’ve always believed that, when it comes to dining out, Manhattan towers above the rest of the boroughs. We’ve all heard of the big, bold and beautiful; the paparazzi have done a number on them already. But the truth is that this town also has a few lesser-known gems beyond those of the Theater District and Madison Square Garden. I’m hoping these eateries and the great neighborhoods they call home can pique your curiosity during your next outing west. They will be worth the trip.

Gina La Fornarina Upper West Side

Say you’re in town and you’re going to see a show at The Beacon. You’re on a date or catching up with an old friend, and you’re looking to get a bite before the first note plays. You’re not in the mood for any five-star deluxe extravaganzas and, because you haven’t made reservations, you’re probably in store for a long wait if you opt for one. The diner across the street is not an option either right now. You’re looking for something good and small but big on personality. Something that will deliver (in the figurative sense).

These were the circumstances in which I bumped into a sweet little spot on the Upper West Side called Gina La Fornarina. Gina is tiny, but she is the perfect complement to a certain kind of night. There’s a lot of pink going on in the aesthetic, which might make lunch/brunch too cute, perhaps, for its own good, but for dinner and drinks in dim lighting, all is good. The bartender/magician? He’s all good. The slightly slow service with a smile? All good. The kind of pricey bill? What do you expect? You’re in Manhattan. The sandwiches, salads and pasta dishes are delicious, and there are enough wine options to satisfy both imagined and true connoisseurs alike. Oh yes, and the outdoor seating? Limited, but, again, all good. And if, perchance, you’re with children on an outing to this corner of Manhattan, fret not—Gina likes kids. Our nephew had the salmon and he said it was “all good.”

It’s often the almost-overlooked that remain with us. The sassy and the snazzy slide away into fuzzy ambiguity, and the forgettable are, well, forgettable. If you weren’t looking for Gina La Fornarina, you might pass her by and probably drop in on Levain Bakery or Jacques Torres Chocolate (two nice after-dinner excursions, mind you) instead. But if you’re keen to these types of discoveries, if you’re the type of person who likes to stop and listen to street music every once in while in order to experience a little bit of sudden and random magic, Gina may be the lady for you. Get there quick. You have a show to catch. gina-lafornarina.com.

Risotteria West Village

This place is in the heart of it. The Blue Note is not too far away and neither is world-class jazz, experimental black box theater, award-winning film and a gorgeous little river called Hudson. Then there’s the Stonewall history, Carrie Bradshaw’s apartment, Blue Man Group…the list goes on. Nestled in a corner on Bleeker Street between 6th and 7th Avenues in the world famous West Village is a delightful little unpretentious eatery called Risotteria. It’s my newest favorite indulgence, which is kind of strange because Risotteria is as healthy as it is tasty. Let me explain.
Before visiting Risotteria, I never knew gluten-free eating could taste so good. Sure, I had friends who were on strict gluten-free diets and learned to adjust, celiacs who took a considerable amount of time to order, avoided most breads, etc. But I imagined their worlds to be bereft of the good stuff, a life imprisoned by a genetic blip that would mean bland meals three times a day and no dessert. Don’t smile while you’re eating either if you know what’s good for you, mister.

After Risotteria, I believe that anything is possible. I’m not sure how it’s done, but the gluten-free breadsticks taste better than just about any pre-meal basket offering I’ve ever tried (oil or no oil). And then there are the enormous salads, the Neapolitan pizza, and trays and trays of baked goods that are all gluten-free delicious as well. Of course, the crown jewel—the crème de la crème—of Risotteria is the risotto. And there is a lot of it. Try the arugula, shrimp and hot pepper risotto, or, if you’re in a fungi mood, go for the porcini. Northern Italy’s creamy rice dishes never tasted so good. Mix and match. Inquire about pairings. Bring some home for lunch tomorrow. Friends at work will gasp and shriek with joy. It will be an olfactory paradise. And you can tell them all about the gluten-free part too…how it’s actually better for your overall digestive health and how you will feel less sluggish but eternally satisfied.

Kids at NYU? Take them to Risotteria for dinner. Like the occasional independent film? Visit the Film Forum afterwards. Or go for a stroll through the diagonals of the lovely and charming quieter elements of West Village. It is, after all, a neighborhood adorned with cute shops and cobblestone streets and plenty of cool little spaces to stare at and dream. You might even stop by to visit palm reading instructor Ellen Goldberg. You could look her up or just head over to Risotteria. Since its maximum capacity cannot exceed twenty persons, there’s a good chance that, if she’s there, you might get an explanation for why your stomach line looks like a happy face all of a sudden and your heart line has grown exponentially. risotteria.com.

Katz’s Deli Lower East Side

Everyone knows that the coolest place in New York City (sorry, Williamsburg) is The Lower East Side. Before being a hotbed for NYC punk rock, LES was a haven for Jewish culture and home to various other immigrant working class communities. Even though gentrification happened and CBGB turned into a high-end fashion store, Joey Ramone’s energy still punks out the sidewalks and the Bowery Ballroom is one of the best rooms to see and hear live music. This neighborhood transforms itself to suit the times, but always keeps it real.

When I was young and full of proms, there was really only one question to satiate the hunger: To go to Katz’s Deli or to not go to Katz’s Deli (and perhaps end up at 2nd Avenue Deli)? Twenty years later, the question still looms when heading downtown for a night of imbibing in the scene, bar hopping, or checking out my favorite new music on Ludlow Street. And now that 2nd Avenue Deli has lost its allure (and isn’t even on 2nd Avenue anymore, for God’s sake), the answer is easy. Sort of.

If it’s gigantic portions of the most delicious corned beef and/or pastrami you’re looking for, then the answer yes. Go to Katz’s Deli. If you want to slurp up your matzo ball soup in between bites of the tastiest knishes this side of the Atlantic, then the answer is yes. If you want to have what Meg Ryan was having in When Harry Met Sally, then yes, yes, and more yes. (Yup, that was Katz’s Deli). If you want to be a balobotishe boychik and learn Yiddish, look closely at the menu. If you want a slice of the real New York City, then there’s no doubt about it—Katz’s Deli is the place. It still serves up meals the way it did, for the most part, when a Russian immigrant family who wanted to recreate “the flavors of the Old World” established it in 1888. It’s a bit of a time machine.

But if you want a snazzy deli with modern machinery, minimalist décor and state of the art refrigeration practices, do not go to Katz’s Deli. If you want to feed the kids for less during your visit to Manhattan, try again. If you want a homogenous crowd, cold stares and fine, intimate dining, Katz’s Deli may not be the place for you. If you want romance, then look elsewhere. Unless, of course, your definition of romance involves standing on a line holding hands with your honey while deliberating on what kind of sandwich fits this specific mood on this specific night surrounded by folks from every walk of life doing the same thing in this, the most magnificent city in the world. katzsdelicatessen.com.

The next time you head into NYC for dinner and a show, extend your evening with one of the many jaw-dropping dessert venues the big apple offers. With so many delectable and out-of-the-ordinary sweets, you’ll be fine with staying out past your curfew.

Dolce Vizio
West Village
131 Christopher Street • dolceviziotiramisu.com, (646) 669-7432

Tiramisu conquers all at Dolce Vizio. The clean lined red, black and white modern Italian dessert bar resides on a quaint corner of the West Village where it takes NY’s favorite treat to another layer of sophistication. The star ingredients ladyfingers, cocoa and coffee beans are honored by oversized, artsy photographs on the wall. From every vantage point, Dolce Vizio is a tiramisu lover’s Shangri-la.
Ask yourself: What would you do if you could make your own tiramisu? Your chic new friend displays all the ingredients for your choosing: Chocolate, citrus sauce or mint syrup to soak your ladyfingers, pistachios, coconut and dark chocolate curls to top off your masterpiece. Lucky for you, if the creation is not what you imagined, you can just start over. Not into creating your own? Play it safe and pick from one of their traditional and not-so-traditional pre-made options. Fair warning: You will have a choice overload. Laid out in an open bar are a variety of fresh guilty pleasures ready to be selected. The helpful staff will let you sample different flavors until you find your perfect match. For instance, the Orange Espresso tiramisu, a favorite, is a zesty mixture of citrus drenched with the bold flavor of espresso beans and dark chocolate. While you’re at it, pull up a chair and enjoy a shot of fresh espresso for a nice pick-me-up after a long day.

Tiramisu deserves to be experienced in different combinations, the unique, the daring and the traditional, and you can experiment your way through them all at Dolce Vizio.

The Library at Trump SoHo
SoHo
246 Spring Street • trumpsohohotel.com, (212) 842-5500

Get a taste of the Midas touch at SoHo’s extravagant dessert den. The Library at Trump SoHo hotel provides unparalleled views of downtown Manhattan and the intimate, sleek, two-story lobby below. It is a luxe nook of a place outfitted with couches and rich details for the comfort of intimate groups. Feast on the combination of surreal tastes and visual presentation with each authentic Italian dessert.
Starting with their most popular, the Bomboloni Della Casa is a masterful trio of homemade Italian doughnuts filled with vanilla and chocolate custards, and apricot jelly. Chocolate lovers will find their haven with the Valrhona Cioccolato Sabotaggio. The vivid taste of each distinctive chocolate goes above and beyond the standard fare. Chocolate cake, chocolate caramel crostata and dark chocolate mousse with Nutella gelato are served in concert for an extraordinary blend. End with a simple refreshing Meringa Di Limone. This tasty lemon custard is sandwiched between two crunchy baked meringue cookies and served with refreshing raspberry sorbert topped with…what else but a gold flake. This is a Trump venue, after all. 

Feeling the heart of fall? Order a Thai Hot Toddy with Mekhong rum, honey lemon juice and a delicious cinnamon stick to warm you in front of the chic modern fireplace. An Amber Spice cocktail topped with fresh puréed pumpkin also does the trick.

Take a breather while sampling the exquisite desserts and peruse through the collection of Taschen books laid throughout this lustrous niche. The fresh balance of modern, artful décor and gorgeous Fendi furniture will make it easy for you to pace yourself through multiple rounds of sweet decadence.

Bourgeois Pig
East Village
111 E. 7th Street • bourgeoispigny.com, (212) 475-2246

Walk through the red-draped velvet curtains and into the Bourgeois Pig, a speakeasy doused in Victorian décor where fondue and champagne punchbowls reign. Mysteriously simple and unknown from the outside, it is a white-faced building with two red gothic lights flanked by a towering wood door. Small masses of New Yorkers gather on the outside waiting their turn. An “absolutely no reservations” policy applies but seems to bother no one.

The crimson ambience blends perfectly with the eclectic menu. Savory fondue and petit sweets are mastered with jaw-dropping taste. The 50/50 fondue is a pot housing your choice of two features (dark, white and milk chocolates, butterscotch, dulce de leche and peanut butter) divided by cake. Choose your dipping morsels from a generous portion of options including a variety of fruits, breads and baked goods.

A Warm Apple Tartatan, with unique hints of nutmeg and cinnamon, is a warm, chunky fall treat—you can taste the French countryside. The mouthwatering molten chocolate cake is the perfect gooey, warm combination to round out this rich, LES experience.

Served in white teacups and a considerable tin bowl are the popular champagne punches. Drinking with noble European-esque etiquette, these flavorful drinks will keep you busily ladling all night. Highly recommended by their attentive wait staff (and rightly so) is La Bette Noire, a concoction of muddled blackberries, maraschino cordial, lemon and champagne. Like your favorite vixen, she seems like a dainty sipper but she’s really a powerful potion.

Bourgeois Pig’s marble tabletops, plush velvet chairs and flickering candles make this seductive European parlor the place to cozy up for a chill fall night… And this little piggy went, “wee, that was amazing” all the way home.

The ideal weekend: Golf with the guys on Thursday followed by a steak dinner; meetings all day Friday ending with a steak dinner; introduction to a lovely lady on Saturday, of course, over a steak dinner.

Blackwells Restaurant
at the Great Rock Golf Club, Wading River
blackwellsrestaurant.com, 631.929.1800

I packed the clubs in the car and waited for Brian and Vic near the white columns at the front door of Blackwells. We played eighteen on the golf course and my stomach was growling. “You guys up for steak?” I asked when they walked up.

We went into the lobby and I approached the maitre d’ while Brian strolled around, checking out the golf trophies and memorabilia. Vic ran his finger over the lobby piano and took a seat in a comfy looking leather chair.

I asked the maitre d’ table which room would be best for us. “The library room is a little more romantic, but you guys seem like you’d prefer the main dining area. There are good views of the golf course from either.”

We followed him to a candlelit white clothed table and started off with a round of Blue Point beers. I explained to the waiter that I was here last month for a golf outing and there was this great artichoke dish served. “Fried artichoke, the carciofi fritti,” he said. “They usually have it for weddings and special occasions, but I could rustle some up for you.” His warm, accommodating manner fit right in with the casual vibe of the place and remained steady throughout the meal.

Brian and I ordered porterhouses plus chick pea flour chips, calamari and crab cakes. Vic ordered the swordfish on petite French lentils. The waiter walked off, leaving us to enjoy the surroundings. One full wall was covered in wine bottles, another had a view of the bar through glass and large picturesque windows overlooking the fairways outside dominated the third.

I crunched on a chick pea flour chip, a warm and tasty Parisian street food that’s somewhere between a pita chip and a corn tortilla. I quickly moved along to the artichokes. Brian shook his head at them, but when Vic tasted one and raved, he took a small nibble off, considered it for a moment then ate the rest. The plate was empty in mere minutes, leaving nothing of the lightly fried artichokes.

Our conversation skidded to a halt when the porterhouses made their entrance. They came out on hot plates with plumes of smoke and the aroma of sizzling steak and melting butter wafting through the room. The waiter set up a serving station and did his preparation tableside. It was impossible to wait before digging in. The steak was perfectly cooked, with a nice crust holding a juicy, tender dream inside.
On the way out, we saddled up to the elegant yet casual bar for a nightcap or three. We loosened our belts, watched the game and whiled away the evening over a few glasses of fine Scotch.

Peter Luger Steakhouse
Northern Blvd, Great Neck
peterluger.com,  516.487.8800

My phone rang as I left my last meeting of the day. “Hey, it’s me,” the voice said. “Still on for dinner? I’ve been in New York all week and still haven’t had a steak yet.”
“Let’s hit steakhouse row. Peter Luger.”

I traded my car for a valet ticket, strolled into the lobby and met my friend at the bar. We were led into the Tudor-style dining room. A decidedly German feel emanated from the surroundings. From the thick wood ceiling beams above to the wood floor and the bare wood tables, it felt like an elegant but distinctly manly lodge in a throwback sort of way. Speaking of throwbacks, the only credit card Peter Luger accepts is its own, otherwise it’s cash or check only.

Knowing I was going straight for a porterhouse, I waved my hand at the familiar waiter when he offered a menu. Like much of the staff, he’s a lifer here and seems to be here every time I visit. The thick porterhouse is meant for two, but no self respecting steak lover would share this meaty sensation.

We tore through appetizers of thick bacon slices—grilled with a nice char to them, they’re almost as thick as the steaks. The jumbo shrimp were just as big and bold, as is most everything here. Then delivery of the porterhouses was made. The thick cuts came on hot plates, still sizzling. The waiter served a few slices to each of us and placed the hot plates in the center of the table, leaned on an upside down saucer to make the jus pool on one end of the plate. He dipped a spoon and drizzled the mouth-watering jus across my steak.

We dug into our steaks and the flavor roared like only the best prime beef can. Its journey from cow to plate starts with PL family members’ daily visits to slaughterhouses. They make their choices based on color and smell, and pick the best of the best by branding them with the Peter Luger mark. Racks of beef are shipped directly to the restaurant and all the subsequent butchering and dry aging is done on premises. A rarity: They’re the only ones on Long Island who have the honor of their own on-premises dry aging room.

We polished off our steaks and were ready for the signature dessert—the holy cow, a hot fudge sundae with nuts that comes in the shape of a cow. An always-satisfying NY cheesecake and a solid cup of coffee left us in a food-stuffed silence.

Tellers Chophouse
Main St, Islip, tellerschophouse.com, 631.277.7070

I ironed my best slacks and shirt before this one. She said she was game for anything from steak to seafood and I wanted to impress. And if I could find a woman who enjoyed a thick, juicy rib eye as much as I do, I’d be the one who was impressed.

We pulled up to Tellers, a commanding, vintage stone building, which used to be a bank, hence the name. The original vaults are still inside and have held the treasures of Tellers’ extensive wine list since the Bohlsen Group opened it in 1999. The grand dining room is considered among the most attractive in any restaurant on the entire island and I could not argue that. The vastness of the room, with its ultra high ceilings and 30-foot tall windows with original steel frames, harkens back to a bygone era.

We sat in a comfortable cushioned corner booth. Around us, the scene was like an old movie about the roaring twenties where the well-dressed people were in similarly dramatic rooms and the frost on the windows was authentic (it is here, too).

The variety of seafood appetizers—scallops, oysters, clams, lobster, crab cake, shrimp, calamari—were all the surf we’d need before digging into the turf. We also munched on the house duck fat French fries, which are lighter and crispier than your garden-variety fry. The south shore vibe carries through all the fresh seafood choices to the vintage photographs of people fishing, racing and sailing, which decorate the walls of both the downstairs and upstairs Gallery room.

Finally, the main event: The Tellers rib eye. USDA prime, dry aged, as well as being my personal favorite cut of beef, I knew we couldn’t go wrong. Tender and with strong mineral flavor, the thick, perfectly cooked, juicy steak screams out to the inner carnivore. We sipped the wine the waiter recommended from the impressive list, the eminent Opus One Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa, and all conversation became non-verbal as we enjoyed the steak from heaven.

For dessert, we split the trio of pies in a jar—linzer torte, pecan pie and apple pie—each safe in its own glass mason jar, apt vessels that brought a nostalgic touch to a happy ending.

No one would snub a beer on tap, but oenophiles are turning their noses up at a new trend stirring controversy across the industry: Tap wine. Although many connoisseurs applaud the benefits of the program, plenty still believe a corked bottle is the only way to go. Restaurateurs and bar owners are finding themselves in a quandary: Is wine on tap a better method for managing inventory or should tried and true methods be held fast?

Many Long Island restaurants and vineyards, such as Verace in Islip, Luce & Hawkins in Jamesport and Paumanok Vineyards in Aquebogue, have adopted the trend and believe tap wine is the way of the future. Bruce Schneider, the winemaker at Onabay Vineyards in Southold, is passionate about producing wine on tap citing that it is more convenient to handle, better for the environment, keeps wine fresher and offers a better value than bottled wine. He is also a draft wine pioneer, co-founding The Gotham Project in 2010, a tap company providing kegs to countless fashionable restaurants across LI and NYC.
Schneider explains, “The first and last glass from a keg will taste the same. If you get wine from a bottle that has been opened, there is air that comes in contact with the wine, robbing it of its freshness. We [also] reuse the kegs, therefore reducing the use of single use packaging such as glass, closures, labels and boxes. With [this], we save money and we pass that savings on to our customers.” There is also a considerable convenience associated with the tap wine program, as kegs take up a lot less space in terms of volume than bottles do. “The kegs we have shipped in our first year alone have prevented more than 50,000 bottles, closures and labels from being created and discarded,” he says.

Bruce Schneider is not alone in his love of tap wine. The casual yet elegant restaurant Squiretown in Hampton Bays is one Long Island venue that currently offers a white and red wine on tap. Owner Charles Bishop believes in the many benefits of adopting the trend, stating, “No bottles to throw out or store, no spoiled wine left open, lower wholesale prices, no storage of multiple cases. I sell carafes of tap wine, too, which is a nice benefit.” Customer reactions are also an advantage to selling the product. As Bishop explains, “Those that are in the know tend to order the tap wines regularly. I enthusiastically mention it to those that aren’t aware and I find they take well to the idea and enjoy its benefits.” And if all else fails, there’s always price—tap wine is typically less expensive than the sister bottled version.

Pundits for tap wine cite customers’ excitement about the product being grown on Long Island by Long Islanders (and also consumed by Long Islanders). The green factor is another plus; reducing the bottle, label and cork from the wine packaging equation can lead to as much as 25% reduction in waste. And, with reusable kegs, the product engages a minimal carbon footprint.

One of the biggest concerns for winemakers at the source is keeping oxygen away from the product, because it spoils the wine. But in a keg, the contents are under gas pressure, which protects the wine like a blanket, preventing spoiling. The procurement of keg wine can also be an enhancement, as winemaker Kareem Massoud of Paumanok Vineyards in Aquebogue, a winery that produces and distributes the product, explains. According to Massoud, the storage procedures for tap wine actually allow the wine to be ready to drink sooner than most bottled wines. “The amount of sulfites added to a wine can be reduced. Sulfites act as a preservative in wine as they protect the wine from oxidation. With regard to wine quality, a reduced level of sulfites can make a wine more approachable, [meaning] it’s ready to drink sooner.”

According to Massoud, historically it’s been believed the cork allows for the “correct” amount of oxygen to properly develop a wine. However, until recently, there weren’t any other options to challenge the theory (or the romanticism of the cork). When a bottle of wine is produced winemakers don’t actually know when and where it will be consumed and therefore can’t really gauge the “correct” oxygen. Maybe the bottle will be opened this week at the restaurant down the road, or perhaps it will be sold in an Australian supermarket and opened years down the line. Winemakers can estimate when the keg wine will be consumed and thus whether or not they should add less sulfites.

Despite many wineries and restaurants jumping on board with the tap wine trend however, there are still others who do not see the benefits. Marco Borghese of Castello di Borghese Winery in Cutchogue has not yet adopted the practice. Although he is thinking about beginning to manufacture the product, he believes wine from a corked bottle is the better option. “I think the advantages [of tap wine] are from a retail standpoint. You can serve a glass of wine relatively label free. It is a matter of convenience for retailers more than a way to enhance the wine. It doesn’t age properly in a keg. Wine in a bottle keeps aging.”
Although Borghese states he would never put his best wines on tap, he feels pressure to jump on the trend due to customer demand for the product. “It gives some retailers and stores who do tastings a convenient way of handling the tastings. Restaurants that serve a lot of wine by the glass, instead of having to pour from a bottle, can hold a glass under a spigot.” For the consumer, this means wines will be more accessible at tastings in particular because stores and restaurants will be more willing to share a wine if there is less risk of leftovers being wasted.

Overall, most of the cons seem to be related to marketing, due to the elimination of packaging. The packaging is part of the overall brand creation for the product, which helps send strategic and informative cues to wine drinkers. Massoud concedes, “From a marketing standpoint, there are certain consumers who are traditionalists who will always view anything other than a cork finished bottle of wine as sub par. Of course, wine on tap will be a tough sell to this crowd.”

While this may make investing in tap wine a risky business endeavor, it seems for now, some winemakers won’t mind gambling if they can sell a higher volume of wine through the tap program and introduce the product in a broader sense. Consumers who have jumped on board the green movement are likely to find this concept sustainable and environmentally friendly. Altogether, tap wine might prove to be a quality, convenient and economically savvy choice wine snobs can nose into. But as is the case with most wine, only time will tell.

Some things will never go out of style—the staples are staples because they represent everything that’s good about their breed and class but in an honest and singular way. Old-school three-olive dirty gin martinis, vodka sodas and Jack and Coke, to name a few, will remain the high holies of imbibery in perpetuity. But a few Long Island bartenders are shaking up stale happy hour routines with splashes of Japanese sake and Brazilian cachaça. While those bartenders hope to expand their regulars’ boozing boundaries with exotic liquors, other Island mixologists urge a return to simplicity, serving up rare, room-temperature bourbons and scotches.

Josh Cook, the general manager at Two Steak & Sushi Den (New Hyde Park), falls into the innovative category. Saketinis—a cocktail with the Japanese rice brew, lychee juice and either gin or vodka—are regulars on most Manhattan bar menus, but are still hard to find on the Island. His New Hyde Park resto, however, has been serving up the sake-based “Pear Blossom” with success. The drink combines Grey Goose Pear Vodka, Momokawa organic junmai ginjo sake and pear purée. The “junmai ginjo” label means the rice in the sake has been polished to a high standard, a process that gives it a smoother taste. It’s not the bargain-basement sake in “sake bombs” (the college town favorite in which heated shots of the rice brew are balanced on chop sticks and dumped into a glass of beer). “It’s fruity, very smooth sake, with a little bit of mushroom,” Cook says of the Momokawa. “Mostly, it has a nice fruity, formal flavor and pairs perfect with pear.”

Rare 650 (Syosset) is also bringing a high-end saketini to Syosset with its newly-revamped cocktail list that debuted mid-October 2011, said sommelier Rich Dorney. Rare 650’s saketini, dubbed “Cool as a Cucumber,” is a mix of Manabito ginjo sake, Effen cucumber vodka and a splash of lime juice. A cucumber wheel garnishes the drink to complement the vodka. “My main job, as the sommelier, is to do the wine program and move our way into getting people to try new things,” Dorney said. The new menu also boasts the Kimono: A high-end mash up of Veuve Clicquot and plum sake, topped with a raspberry garnish. The plum sake is infused with a small, tart Japanese variety of the fruit, and the dry Veuve Clicquot balances it out for a “goes-down-easy” bubbly cocktail.

Moving to the other side of the globe, cachaça is another niche liquor growing in popularity here in NY—maybe even threatening the leggy Gisele Bündchen’s status as America’s favorite Brazilian import. Like sake, cachaça lends itself to creative cocktails. The Latin booze has a taste similar to rum, but is pressed from sugarcane, not molasses. Agave’s Blue Cactus in Hampton Bays and its sister restaurant in Westhampton Beach serve up Brazil’s national drink, the caipirinha, with simple syrup and a packet of raw cane sugar, said bartender Joe Healy. Still, the kitschy Hampton Bays outpost only went through about two bottles of Leblon, a luxury cachaça, this summer. Argentinean restaurant Café Buenos Aires in Huntington uses Agua Luca cachaça to serve caipirinhas to its busy bar crowd, but also stirs the liquor into its tweaked margarita, Margarita Del Sur. Instead of a tangy, sour margarita, Café Buenos Aires’ cachaça-spiked drink, complemented with fresh lime juice and peach nectar, has a sweeter taste but is still a pleaser for margarita devotees craving salt.

Mezcal—tequila’s up-and-coming craft cousin from Oaxaca—has made an appearance on some bolder, inventive Nassau-Suffolk cocktail lists. Besito in Huntington and Roslyn, and Two Steak & Sushi Den feature Del Maguey Minero and Del Maguey San Luis del Rio. Two also offers a Del Maguey Chichicapa. Cook concocted a mezcal drink called the “Salsa Verde” but canned it after Long Island drinkers shied away. The cocktail mixed mezcal and muddled cilantro for a rich, herbaceous taste. “I loved it,” Cook said. “It was fantastic.” But, he admits mezcal is not easy to pick up: What is a tasty alcoholic indulgence for some, is an acquired taste for others. “It has some aspects of tequila, but it’s very smoky, almost like from a Southern barbeque,” Cook said. “I adore it, but it’s not for everyone… It takes time to get used to it when you haven’t seen it before. [But] I’m not sure why it wouldn’t catch on in the next year or two.”

Besito’s ever-popular tequila flights may be the middle ground for drinkers not ready to sample mezcal. Besito regional manager Jose Reyes said the famed haute Mexican restaurant serves up blanco, reposado, anejo and offers “vertical” flights for tequila-lovers to try one of each. The blancos, non-aged tequilas poured right from fermentation casks into bottles, have a stronger agave flavor. Cabo Wabo, Partida, Patron and Don Julio have popular blanco varieties and are usually followed by a sangrita chaser, a traditional Mexican mixture of tomato juice, salt, Tabasco sauce, grenadine and grapefruit juice. The tequilas in the reposado flight are aged longer, from two to twelve months. To be labeled “anejo,” tequilas must sit in casks at least one year, a slow process that gives the liquor a more distinct, “oaky” taste; hence rendering them “mature,” as the label suggests.

Nevertheless, the purists forge ahead. Imbibers of this sort usually take their aged, rare scotches and bourbons straight up and Sapsuckers Hops & Grub (Huntington), among others, is happy to oblige. The craft-focused establishment takes a back-to-basics approach to sauce serving “easy on the senses” hash like Hudson Four-Grain Bourbon. Peter Armata, the general manager, selected the upstate New York bourbon not only for its taste, but because it’s made in small batches, fitting with the new restaurant’s craft theme. “It’s a four-grain bourbon, so there’s not as much bite,” he said. “It’s fairly hard to get.” Hudson Four-Grain is not “the first thing you would mix with coke or ginger ale,” Armata said. But, a rack Kentucky bourbon might bring you home. It is the key ingredient in a signature cocktail on the libation list at The Bayou, a Cajun restaurant in Bellmore inspired by New Orleans’ French Quarter.

“It’s bourbon with amaretto, pineapple and gin,” said bartender Laura Fennelly. “It’s like an Alabama Slammer, an old drink that’s been around a long time.” Bourbon drinkers know when they’re getting a well liquor, Fennelly said. Unlike vodka, where purity is prized, each bourbon has a specific taste. Her regulars at The Bayou go for standards like Kentucky-distilled Jim Beam and Wild Turkey for the nutty, smoky flavors.

Like some bourbons, fine Scotches, sipped most often in the winter, are best left unmarred by carbonation or sweet juices. Sapsuckers’ standout is a cask-strength Scotch called Aberlour A’bunadh, from the Speyside of Scotland. The high-end single-barrel scotch is 120 proof with a woodsy, peaty taste. “It’s not harsh in any way,” Armata said. “There’s a lot of peat, almost like when you’re doing barbeque, when you smoke meats, it comes through as the main character. Downing an entire glass of Aberlour A’bunadh is something of an accomplishment. Armata recommends wading into the Scotch world with a Glenlivet 12, Glenfiddich 12 or Macallan 12 on the rocks, which serve to soften the harsh taste.

Whatever your poison, happy hour is certainly looking a lot more interesting. Exotic elixirs continue to enter the mainstream on a weekly basis, and will continue inbound to our shores as distribution channels expand and market demand (via consumer interest and education) grows. Likewise, the thirst for the old hallmarks remain. Choosing one or the other and sticking to it is “so prohibition,” the pleasure is exploring the opportunities.

The chill is setting in and you’re ready to eat. But the wine thing is still a little lost on you, is it? Fret not, it’s only a two step program. Step One: Drink local, it does us all good. Step Two: Pair well, fare well. That is, the better you pair your wine, the better your meal will be. This simple hit list will chart your course (mind the pun) to make you a star at the dinner table (or lunch…or breakfast, if that’s how you roll).

Top Three Alcoholic Consumption “Dream Partners”
3) Complete Cast of D2: The Mighty Ducks
2) You. Kidding. Not you. Never you. Never.
1) Me in Ten Years, or Now, or Next Thursday, or Anytime

NASSAU

Brasserie 214
(516) 354-7797, New Hyde Park
innatnhp.com

armand vanderstigchel |aeiou and y|
noun
1. badass : The kung-fu scene was armand vanderstigchel.
2. head chef of brasserie 214 : see below.

Vanderstigchel ignores brasserie convention (Belgo and Francaise themes) at 214, self-dubbed as “NY’s Largest Schnitzel Bank,” and invites dishes from countries such as Germany, Austria, Holland and Poland for Euro-cuisine playtime; their imported beer chums also accompany.

“I decided to expand the cuisine choices to countries in the Central Europe region since their cuisines overlap each other and all these countries are the founders and creators of great beer,” said Vanderstigchel. “The food we feature from these countries were ‘born’ to pair with beer.”

MP Taverna
(516) 686-6486, Roslyn 
mptaverna.com

Introduction of MP Taverna via several Zagat-like quotations is: “Hellenic Modern.” “Dope.” “Flavor Profile-Categorized Beer and Wine List.”

An accessible, non-yiayia-and-bouzouki presentation of Greek-eats by executive chef Michael Psilakis, East Northport native, of Fishtag and Kefi. George Pappas, manager, on MP Taverna’s selection of ten drafts and 40 bottles:

“We compiled our list based on flavor profile, so, of course, it is divided into different flavor categories [e.g., Dark, Bold & Strong, Full Flavored Unique Beers, Hoppy or Bitter Ales]. This allows customers to better pair beer with their meal and help to complement one another.”

Pappas hopes to rotate the beer selection, which includes Brewery Ommegang Witte, Southampton Publick House Grand Cru and Trappistes Rochefort 8, similar to the seasonally-based menu.

Food/Beer Pair Matrimony: Ostrakoidi Yiouvetsi (mixed shellfish paella and orzo) with Westmalle Trappist Tripel.

SUFFOLK

C’est Cheese
(631) 403-4944, Port Jefferson
cestcheesepj.com

Pronounced say cheese, so, um, say say cheese? Come on. Just say it.

Serves over 75 domestic and imported artisan cheeses (e.g., Cypress Grove Chevre, Jasper Hill Farm, Consider Bardwell Farm), boutique wines, gourmet fromage-creative sandwiches and salads, custom taste plates and an eight-line draft tower pourin’ Chimay Blanche, Lindemans Framboise, Thomas Hooker Brewing Company Hop Meadow IPA and the e-t-c-.

Joseph Ciardullo, proprietor, cites FranÇaise cafes and specialty shops as inspiration, and hopes for an “experience of culture, carefree and relaxed.”

Chillvibin’ with cheese.

The Lark Pub & Grub
(631) 262-9700, East Northport
thelarkpubandgrub.com

“John Court [owner] and I are huge beer lovers,” said Eileen Heffernan, manager of The Lark Pub & Grub. “He’s the ‘Hop Head’ and I’m the stout and Belgian lover, which works out well because we meet somewhere in the middle and come up with a pretty well balanced tap selection.”

Recent drafts include Captain Lawrence Brewing Company Liquid Gold, Franziskaner Hefe-Weisse Dunkel, Peak Organic Brewing Company King Crimson, and Sierra Nevada Brewing Company Tumbler.

Monthly beer dinners, between four and six courses, occur on Tuesdays, and showcase one brewery or style.

Next Beer Dinner: Stone Brewing Company (11/15/11).

Click here to follow Niko Krommydas and his blog, Super Neat Beer Adventure, Yes!!, where you can find more on the Long Island craft beer culture.

MP Taverna photo by stephen lang

NASSAU

Novitá
(516) 739-7660, Garden City
novita-ny.com
Nestled in the elegant town of Garden City is a wine bar like no other. Novitá offers 100 different wines by the glass, held in a custom-built wine preservation system, the largest of its kind on the east coast. Pick a seat at the bar and peek at this modern Australian-built masterpiece. Wine connoisseurs are impressed when each glass is poured to perfection at optimal temperature. Specialties run nightly with happy hour discounts Monday through Friday until 7pm. Grab a ringside seat and enjoy the flight—a selection of three various wines within the same region. Flight nights are happening every Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday, call ahead for reservations. A trip to the vineyards is conveniently one stop at Novitá. 

SUFFOLK

Four Food Studio
(631) 577-4444. Melville
fourfoodstudio.com
Four Food Studio proves to be one of Long Island’s most happening after-work and weekend scenes with its packed dance floor and hopping bar crowd. This unique restaurant and lounge sets the bar for a perfect NYC alternative. The décor celebrates the four seasons, hence the name. The workweek just begins and Long Islanders are parading into this trendy spot on a Monday night—yes, Monday. There is no set age group for this one. You’ll see everyone from women in their mid 20s prancing in their hottest get-up to the after-work professionals grabbing a drink in the Spring Lounge. A tremendous video projection screen drops down behind the bartenders and caters to the “game-watchers.” The DJ spins the best beats throughout the night pulling everyone onto the dance floor. Four fits the nightlife for any Long Island season.

NYC PICK

Brass Monkey
(212) 675-6686, Manhattan
brassmonkeynyc.com
Downtown in the Meatpacking District lie cobbled streets and the sounds of heels clacking during the wee hours of the night. The scene is buzzing and New Yorkers are flocking into the Brass Monkey. This wood-paneled lounge features a rooftop section above two spacious stories of packed party-goers ready to let loose. Covered in mirrors, the lower level attracts dance moves and spying the scene. Head upstairs and the lights dim. The dark mystical ambience plants the seed for its guests to get to know each other a little better. (Hmmm.) Brass Monkey is known for its array of draft and bottled beers. Try something out of the box; you might come across your new favorite beverage. Weekends shine at the Brass Monkey, expect it to be filled from wall-to-wall.

NASSAU

Buckley’s
(516) 825-4344, Valley Stream
Half standard-issue Irish bar by the train station, half restaurant. The restaurant half doubles as a venue, with local bands every weekend. Good for a low-key night out for a few beers and some tunes.

Our Times Coffeehouse
(516) 541-1006, Garden City
This unique, volunteer-run organization is the product of the collaboration of the Ethical Humanist Society of Long Island and the Long Island Progressive Coalition. Dedicated to propagating affordable folk music on the Island, this venue hosts top-notch monthly performances. Details and dates at ourtimescoffeehouse.org.

SUFFOLK

Village Pub
(631) 592-4260, Lindenhurst
A hole-in-the-wall with heart. Play some pool, skip some school, act real cool, drink some beer. Live bands on Fridays and Saturdays.

Nag’s Head Ale House
(631) 673-6247, Huntington
Always good beer on tap, local bands on the weekends, and an open mic on Monday nights. This bar is abuzz on the weekends like any other bar in Huntington Village, but you won’t find the “hipper than thou” atmosphere.

MP TAVERNA
Roslyn (516) 686-6486

It’s virtually impossible to order a bad dish at MP Taverna in Roslyn. That’s because chef/owner Michael Psilakis is preparing the same rustic, authentic, delicious Greek home cooking his mother served to him when he was growing up in East Northport (although he gives some of it creative twists). She knew what she was doing and so does he. What’s more, Mr. Psilakis (yes, the MP Taverna is named for Michael Psilakis) is a man on a mission. He believes Greek food deserves the same attention and respect that is properly accorded Italian and Asian cuisine, that it should be as much an everyday choice as they are. (He believes Greek cuisine is a combination of Italian and Middle Eastern.) Nobody who samples his cooking at the no-nonsense, food-first MP Taverna will be likely to argue with him.

There is a reason every seat has been filled every night since the restaurant opened in May. At MP Taverna, prices are modest, portions are generous, service is swift and the food is consistently superior. In other words, he and his concerned crew know how to run a restaurant. He proved that in Manhattan where he operates the successful Kefi and Fish Tag eating places and earned best new chef recognition from Food & Wine Magazine, and Chef of the Year awards from both Bon Appétit and Esquire.

Like his city ventures, MP Taverna is an earthy everyman restaurant that shuns elitism. There’s admirable flair, but no phoniness or pretense to the food. From the crusty peasant bread that proceeds dinners to the Greek dessert staples like baklava, galaktoboureko and rich, thick yogurt that ends them, there are no weak sisters. Although some dishes are better than others, there simply are no strikeouts. The roasted lemon chicken ($15) with dill and garlic roasted fingerling potato, for instance, is a gentle little dish and all that it should be, but not nearly as innovative or exciting as the prawn and green vegetable risotto ($18): long, heads-on, though shelled, shrimp below a hill of rice laced with fresh, vibrant peas, fava beans, zucchini and arugula. Other equally impressive entrées, some of which despite being simple, straightforward dishes, yielded unexpected complexity, were five or six (depending on size) tasty, flawlessly-grilled lamb chops (at $25 the most expensive, everyday menu entrée) garnished with seasonal vegetables like zucchini, cherry tomatoes and red onions that offered a choice of five salads as well. Those cherry tomatoes, olives and fingerling potatoes also accompany a marvelous rendition of grilled and filleted branzino ($19).

Impressive as the main courses were, appetizers were even better, and often more interesting. The soft, almost sweet octopus ($11) perched on a bed of Mediterranean chickpea salad caused one diner at our table to say, “I’d return here just for that.” Flavor-packed meatballs ($7.50) in a tomato sauce alive with onions and olives are in the same don’t-miss category. Scallop lovers were delighted with the unexpected farm-fresh cauliflower and dried cherry that boosted the tender shellfish beyond the usual ($11.50).

The feta-laced salads should also be given serious consideration. The MP is a chopped salad for the ages with its amalgam of lettuce, tomato, cucumber, olive, onion and peppers, and the tomato salad sports string beans and grilled onions.

While desserts weren’t at quite the exalted level of appetizers and entrées, they were anything but a letdown. Best was the apple baklava Napoleon ($7) served with a scoop of Amaretto or maple walnut ice cream, followed by the dense chocolate halva (sesame seed) brownie ($8) and thick Greek yogurt ($7) embedded with seeds and honey.

MP Taverna is a neat, brown-hued, double storefront with a high industrial ceiling (that controls the noise), shiny blond wood floors, dark wood paneling, mirrors, banquettes, bare tables and exposed brick.

Had one appetizer not been auctioned off and had our wine arrived before, rather than after, the entrées were served, MP would have received five stars, which is nevertheless what its food deserves.

photos by stephen lang

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WAVE SEAFOOD KITCHEN
Port Jefferson (631) 928-5200

Wave, the restaurant at Danfords Hotel and Marina in Port Jefferson, is becoming more than just a pretty face. Over the years its been known mainly for its waterfront setting and panoramic views of the Long Island Sound, ferries and marinas rather than its mediocre, forgettable food. Recently things began changing for the better. Renamed Wave Seafood Kitchen by the new chef Jonathan Levine, the restaurant now offers a new concept and menu as well as name. Mr. Levine, who has made a number of trips around the culinary block since he attended Johnson & Wales University in his hometown of Miami, is pursuing a “farm to table” regimen featuring fresh local produce and regional seafood. Incorporating stops he has made at big name restaurants in Manhattan (Park Avenue Café), the Caribbean (the Ritz-Carlton Hotel in San Juan) and Las Vegas (Restaurant Guy Savoy at Caesar’s Palace and the Buffet at Wynn), he has introduced a preview menu that’s more refined and creative than those previously available at Danfords.

The likes of bacon-wrapped dates with applewood bacon and almonds, a tasting of three ceviche and banana mille feuille were anything but staples on the restaurant’s menu prior to Mr. Levine’s arrival. While he has already bumped Danfords quality and diversity up a few notches, we suspect the “preview” implies that his menu is a work in progress with more to come.

Although that menu might be in a state of flux, the subdued, carpeted dining room has been brightened up a bit, but remains insistently nautical with its emphasis on seascapes and sailing ships while warm-weather dining on the outdoor Admiral’s Deck offers a most pleasant experience.

Among the starters: Buttery, rich, homemade papardelle pasta ($13) replete with summer squash, black truffles and stuffed squash blossom as well as a huge, superior Caesar salad ($8) powered by crispy anchovies grabbed top honors. Nor was there anything wrong with two crab cakes ($14) boasting plenty of crab meat with apple fennel slaw in a tangy lemon coriander sauce, lobster arancini ($14) three deep fried balls resting on a touch of fennel aioli contained much rice but only a diminutive hint of lobster.

Chef Levine has a gentle, knowing touch with flat fish. Both the Atlantic cod ($28) with local Maitake mushrooms and a scant sampling of potato gnocchi in lobster brown butter, and a local striped bass ($29) presented with lentils, arugula and truffle beets, were moist, fresh and fine with nary a hint of the overly-strong fishy flavor often encountered elsewhere. Also recommended is a generous, diverse serving of seafood couscous ($34) with more than adequate quantities of lobster, shrimp, clams, mussels and scallops and a lip smacking bouillabaisse sauce that infuses the couscous with admirable flavor, and a big, gristle-fringed, bone-in New York Strip steak ($37) that packed robust minerally flavor and was enhanced by its port wine sauce.

Among the sweet finales were a rich, dense, above average cheese- cake ($9); a chocolate mousse dome ($10) with a good concentrated raspberry reduction; a galette of apple with a big scoop of vanilla ice cream; and a layered banana mille feuille ($11) whose banana was somewhat obscured by its dominant chocolate flavor.

The kitchen at Danfords is well ahead of the restaurant’s affable but inexperienced, unpolished waitstaff. Servers needed to question diners about who ordered what when delivering dishes, seemed almost clueless about wine service (pouring the host’s glass first rather than last, then going round robin rather than ladies first) and failed to promptly refill the basket of good coarse crusty bread.

photos by stephen lang

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LEFT COAST KITCHEN AND COCKTAILS
Merrick (516) 868-5338

Restaurants often write their own reviews. Perceptive diners need only keep their eyes and ears open. At Left Coast Kitchen, which opened in Merrick earlier this year, I heard a diner say, “It’s noisy as hell in here, but the food is good.” When another patron commented to a waitress about the large dessert portions she replied, “We’re into gluttony here.” Then there was the pleasant, personable young maitre d’ whose style of dress symbolized the spirit of the place. He wore a shirt and tie, but the shirttails flapped out over his jeans rather than being tucked in while a rag or napkin hung down from his back pocket.

We could stop right there, for we have been told that the Left Coast Kitchen serves large portions of good food, in a loud, laid-back, unpretentious setting.

These observations were right on target. The rollicking, raucous Left Coast Kitchen is a casual, informal American bistro or gastro pub with a bar upfront, bare tables and floors, a pressed tin ceiling, mirrors and a working, not a showplace, open kitchen. While it’s anything but serene or sedate, it’s obviously a restaurant on a roll. On both a weeknight and a Sunday, the place was packed. Every seat was filled and many customers waited for tables in that sloped-roof bar or tap room.
Although the food here is robust, no nonsense and full flavored, don’t expect the niceties. Dishes are often auctioned off as in “Who ordered the hot ‘n slurpy noodles?” nor should you be shocked if your silverware isn’t replaced for the next course.

The lead player among the likable people here who display not a trace of attitude or pretense, is chef/owner Chris Randell whose wife Heather runs the front of the house. Mr. Randell, who moved from City Cellar in Westbury after racking up impressive culinary credits in California and Manhattan, pops out of the kitchen and pitches in serving, cooking and chatting with diners. His enthusiastic, upbeat, informed persona sets the tone for his restaurant. Mr. Randell’s food is not subtle or delicate, but an upscale version of pub classics prepared in his simple home-cooking style.

There’s also plenty of spicy kick for those who enjoy it. They should try the no-joke spicy beef taco ($11) starter filled with shaved strip steak and three cheeses resting on a bed of snappy crushed avocado and incendiary Salsita Diablo and poblano chiles. Dipping the four, firm, fresh shrimp from the colossal shrimp cocktail ($13) in the two-alarm cocktail sauce will make them happy as well, as should the plentiful skewers of Buffalo chicken and shrimp sate ($12). A small but special jumbo lump crab cake ($13) is pepped up by its sweet corn relish and pesto aioli.

Among the entrées, no-surprise sautéed sea scallops ($24), a mahi mahi fish special ($28), a chicken Arielle ($21) stuffed with brie, apples and cranberries, and a slightly under-seasoned lobster roll passed muster ($19). A Flintstone-sized “more short than short” rib ($25) was tender and tasty, with a great loaded (bacon, cheese, etc.) deep-fried baked potato, but the interesting chili-root beer glazed pork chops ($21) were tough.

Only some brick-hard cookies ($3) were disappointing at dessert time. The homemade vanilla, orange bread pudding yielded more vanilla than orange flavor until we spooned up its orange sauce and poured it over our huge portion. Both the warm, molten lava cake ($9) and the bowl of Oreo/brownie sundae ($8) with rich chocolate gelato and whipped cream were decadent delights (although their peanut butter and peanut butter sauce added little to the dishes). You will not go wrong with the silky-smooth fried cheesecake ($8) or a huge dessert of the night special, a plum and apple crisp ($8) covered with crumbs and topped with a generous scoop of vanilla ice cream.

photos by stephen lang

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Markets are like politics: Part beauty pageant and part actual substance in varying degrees. This is true whether we’re talking about Argentina, Northern Italy or Long Island. Tastes and trends are constantly changing and are as influenced by the winds of marketing and other forces as a bird on the wing. When it comes to the wine industry, demands for wines and so called “in wines” are made all the more fickle by extraneous forces like weather, economy and so on.

It’s no different for the wines being produced right here in our own region. In particular, the big brands of Chardonnay and Merlot. Just a handful of years ago, back in 2004 to be exact, I was penning articles cautioning our local vineyards against pursuing these wines. It seemed to me Long Island producers would be tilting at windmills trying to capture any piece of the Chardonnay or Merlot pies. Simply put, I didn’t think we were up for it. The standards against which these wines are judged were quite high and continuing to be raised by regions that were producing better and better versions each year. Merlot, which fell slightly out of fashion after one widely lauded Giamatti film (Sideways), is making a comeback. And though favored bottles continue to hail from Napa and Bordeaux, great bottles have been coming out of Mendoza, Willamette Valley, Northern Italy, Patagonia and, yes, Long Island. Likewise, Chardonnay was once thought to be the domain of producers in Sonoma and Burgundy, however plenty of good “chards” are being associated with these regions as well.

This turn of fortune is not specific to these bottles or our region, for that matter. And it’s hardly an isolated incident. A decade ago I was asked by the Slow Food Movement to judge Long Island wines with a group of other wine professionals (all wine educators, sommeliers or the like). The wines that really surprised us were not what we expected. They were a Cabernet Franc from Pellegrini and a Gewürztraminer from Paumanok. I thought we should find some other Cabernet Francs from Long Island (not easy back then). There were only a few producers labeling wine as Cabernet Franc. Even though the grape was planted in many vineyards, its role was relegated to a supporting member of the Bordeaux blends or as a bit of spice for Merlot. As for Gewürztraminer, I considered it a passionate endeavor of the winemakers that paid off (it wasn’t too bad for us drinkers, either).

And so the litany continues: Fifty years ago, there was no Long Island wine region. Yet today, we are respectable contenders in Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc, two grapes we tend to consistently produce very good wines from. True, the market is a little softer for these wines, and everything is relative, but there is value in putting your best foot forward nevertheless.

Truly high-quality LI restaurants (whether en masse or individually) seem to have a knack for dreaming up irresistible specials that attract diners in droves. There are also those locales where drink selections are given just as much attention as the food.

Always a highlight for foodies islandwide, November 6-13 brings Long Island Restaurant Week’s triumphant return for a 6th year. All the rich, diverse cuisine from eateries across Nassau and Suffolk can be had all night (until 7pm on Saturday) in a 3-course prix fixe for $24.95. longislandrestaurantweek.com.

While there has always been a wealth of expertly crafted beer and wine to be had in LI eateries, two more locations can definitely be added to that already formidable roster. OSO at Southampton Inn (631) 283-6500 recently won a 2011 Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator magazine, an accolade bestowed upon the wine programs of a select few restaurants across the US. OSO’s wine list features 140 different types of wine, specializing in vintages from France, Italy and California and they have a collection of almost 600 bottles. Newly opened Long Island Ale House in Medford (631) 569-5515, in addition to a selection of domestic and imported beers, also has just about every locally brewed beer on tap, (the perfect opportunity for an LI beer tasting party). These include Blue Point Brewing Company, Fire Island Beer Co., Greenport Harbor Brewing Co., Long Ireland and Southampton Publick House.

Top LI steakhouse Prime in Huntington (631) 385-1515 is bringing a bit of the tropics to our increasingly chilled island with their dinnertime “Three-Course Key West Road Trip Menu,” available until December 15. The appetizers are Florida stone crab claws with key lime cocktail sauce (market price) and scallop ceviche with jicama, avocado and mango ($14). Entrées include macadamia nut crusted golden snapper with fresh hearts of palm and chile cucumber vinaigrette ($33) and guava glazed organic chicken with crispy purple potatoes ($25). Stay tuned for their New Mexico and California menus, coming soon.

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The word is out!  Everyone is talking about one of the best-kept secrets on Long Island, Chachama Grill in East Patchogue, operated by the talented and congenial Executive Chef-Owner Elmer Rubio. The restaurant is named after the Spanish word for cornbread, but Chachama is a name people remember.

Elmer Rubio is in charge and he’s a perfectionist. This is exhibited in the impeccable service, welcoming décor and New American fusion cuisine with Spanish influences. There is a hint of cilantro, plantains and other Spanish flavors throughout the menu, but the food is American. Oysters Rubio and marinated pork chops are the most popular dishes. Elmer sits at a well-appointed table overlooking his domain, dressed in a bright red chef’s coat, relaxed and happy. He is definitely a man of detail, as demonstrated by the spotless kitchen, white crisp linens and attentive waiters in dark suits.

Life was adventurous for him from an early age. At 16, he moved from Santa Rosa, El Salvador to Los Angeles with his family. Soon after, he came to Oyster Bay at his cousin’s invitation and worked at the Mill River Inn as a dishwasher and line cook for Michael Meehan. Meehan, now of H2O, was his mentor and Elmer followed him to Clearwater in Massapequa and Tupelo Honey in Sea Cliff. He was sous chef at the Bookmark Café in Oyster Bay and chef de cuisine at Meritage in Bellport. Elmer and his wife Marie took a risk opening Chachama Grill eight years ago, shortly after their wedding, and it proved to be a good decision. They now live locally and he enjoys driving his boys, Elmer, Pablo and Gabriel, to and from school.

Chef Rubio is confident in his culinary skills and offers a suggestion. “I ask customers not to season the dish until they taste it, since it may not be necessary. People understand and appreciate the good quality of the food I serve. Good taste comes from good quality. A chef can take a recipe, but he must make it his own! My customers appreciate this and come from all over the island. One even called from San Francisco to make a reservation for his trip east.”

Loyal to those who work for him, he says, “I am friends with my staff. Most of them have been with me since I opened. We work as a team.” Elmer had a shoulder injury awhile back during which time he worked out front bartending and hosting. “Confident my kitchen staff could take over, I took the opportunity to get to know my customers better.”

When asked to describe his life in one word, Chef Rubio quickly said, “Balance! Trying to balance family, cooking and business is difficult. I love to cook and would recommend it as a career choice for my sons, only if they really loved it too.”

Chachama Grill is no longer a secret! Chef Rubio has let ambience, quality and talent spread the word.

Signature Dish 
Marinated Pork Chops with Sweet Potato and Plantain Purée : From the day Elmer Rubio opened Chachama Grill, this dish has been on the menu and is a favorite of many customers. It is a perfect fall to winter dish and is easy to prepare.

Chachama Marinated Pork Chops with Sweet Potato and Plantain Purée
4 pork chops

Marinade:
1 lemon
2 garlic cloves
1 Cup soy sauce
1 Tsp chopped Ginger
5 Cups of water
2 Tsp. honey
Place pork chops in pan; add one lemon cut in quarters, chopped garlic and ginger
Add 5 cups of water with honey and marinate for 6 hours or overnight.

Sweet potato-Plantain Purée: 
4 sweet potatoes
1 plantain
½ Cup of brown sugar
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 vanilla bean
½ Cup heavy cream

Pre-heat oven to 400 degrees.
Take 4 sweet potatoes and oven roast for 45 minutes

Take 1 plantain and oven roast for 30 minutes

Peel sweet potatoes and plantain and place them into blender, add brown sugar, butter and cream. Cut vanilla bean half longwise and scrape into blender. Blend all until smooth.

When sufficiently marinated, grill or broil chops with a little oil, salt and pepper to taste for 8 minutes per side or longer if wanted well done.

Plate warm blended purée and place chops on top. Serves 4.

Bière de Champagne

Bière de Champagne, “Champagne-Style” beer, is a hybrid of beer and champagne techniques. It starts with standard beer fermentation techniques, but after this, two methods particular to Champagne production come into play. Sugars and yeast are added to naturally carbonate the drink. Afterwards, the yeast is removed from the bottle over time, resulting in a higher alcohol content, spicy and fruity flavors and abundant effervescence.

Infinium Ale is a collaborative production between the Samuel Adams and Weihenstephan breweries, and is one of the only Bière de Champagnes to be brewed in the United States. The Weihenstephan Brewery is regarded as the oldest continuously operating brewery in the world, having brewed beer since 1040 AD. According to Jim Koch, founder of Samuel Adams Beer, Weihenstephan reached out to Samuel Adams, looking to collaborate on the creation of a “Champagne-Style” beer using only four ingredients in the production (water, malt, hops, yeast). Infinium retails for $20, with limited availability.

Winter’s coming and you’re itching to bulk up. Nothing does it like a hardy breakfast. Especially on a slow, steady, crisp Saturday morning. These are just the kind of kitchens you’ll want to linger at, enjoying the sweet abandonment of clocks, inventive “mom-like” chow and the chance to while over the morning paper, front to back.

Love Lane Kitchen

Love Lane Kitchen in Mattituck provides one of the North Fork’s best country breakfasts, and the authentic rural setting to boot. On quaint, tree-lined Love Lane, one of the shortest thoroughfares in America, this modestly-sized gem has a menu of fantastic, locally-sourced gourmet meals prepared from scratch.
Read Full Article
     

Glen’s Dinette

Glen’s Dinette, located in the heart of Babylon Village, is a perennial, all-American favorite from another time, with charming, friendly diner ambiance and décor. The proprietor, appropriately named Hapi, greets customers of every age group by name as they walk in the door and he escorts them to “their spot.”
Read Full Article
     

Maureen’s Kitchen

When you hear people talk about top breakfast places on Long Island, you will undoubtedly hear the name Maureen’s Kitchen. There is a valid reason for this and you’ll find out as soon as your nose crosses the threshold.
Read Full Article
     

Thomas’s Ham & Eggery Diner

When it opened in 1946, Nassau County was still mostly farmland. From that time to the present, most of the locals have claimed this eatery as their favorite breakfast place. Welcome to the local institution known as Thomas’s Ham & Eggery Diner, a place of classic diner features, including stylish vintage stools and funky color schemes.
Read Full Article
     

Toast Coffeehouse

A warm and artsy place in a warm and artsy waterfront town. Port Jefferson’s Toast Coffeehouse is a bohemian hangout extraordinaire with people traveling high and low to drop by for a bite.
Read Full Article
     

Bonus: Elegant brunches for your Sunday pleasure

Dressing up for Sundays is just one of those things mama taught you. Do her proud and keep the traditions at these chic eateries where a delectable late-morning feast will be served with first-class mimosas. Hey, bring mom while you’re at it. (Reservations recommended.)
Read Full Article
     

Love Lane Kitchen in Mattituck provides one of the North Fork’s best country breakfasts, and the authentic rural setting to boot. On quaint, tree-lined Love Lane, one of the shortest thoroughfares in America, this modestly-sized gem has a menu of fantastic, locally-sourced gourmet meals prepared from scratch. The décor fits the surrounding area with its laid-back, small-town approach. Simple white walls and tile with a glaze of countrified blue brings a sense of calm, pure, old-fashioned country joy to this eatery. There’s no lacking of bootstrap humor, either: A sign above the counter-bar warns, “All unattended children will be given a cup of espresso and a free puppy.” The casually-dressed waitresses are fast and busy, but attentive and helpful.

Love Lane is a quick-stop Mecca, offering delectable baked goods like muffins, croissants and scones, a breakfast sandwich special (two eggs with either sausage or bacon and a cup of Joe), along with self-serve coffee in many flavors. Table service yields its own rewards. Their eggs are a taste-bud-pleasing must—a zesty Rancheros egg dish with homemade guacamole and salsa combines flavor and a spicy kick to transcend the average watered-down attempt at Mexicana straight to “olé!” Everything on the “Grains” section of the menu is big on quality and flavor. The buttermilk griddle cakes are fully satisfying, and the porridge containing tasty whole-grain oats and flavored with a hint of honey and brown sugar is worthy of Goldilocks envy—it’s truly “just right.” French toast filled with cream cheese and topped with berry compote is delicious decadence personified. Love Lane Kitchen, with its North Fork country charm, is nothing short of lovely.

240 Love Lane, Mattituck
Breakfast served 7am-2pm daily
(631) 298-8989,
lovelanekitchen.com

Glen’s Dinette, located in the heart of Babylon Village, is a perennial, all-American favorite from another time, with charming, friendly diner ambiance and décor. The proprietor, appropriately named Hapi, greets customers of every age group by name as they walk in the door and he escorts them to “their spot.” His enthusiasm is infectious and this energy has rubbed off on the friendly wait staff. This is the feel-good morning to set the pace for your whole weekend.

Americana? Yes indeed, especially the local variety. Long Island photographs and memorabilia hang throughout and an entire wall is covered with license plates from various times and locales—the first mounted by Hapi and the rest donated by regular patrons. Glen’s has been at it for so many years (over six decades) that the long counter seating area (filled with wonderful smells from the griddle behind the counter) has “elbow and plate” imprints rubbed into it. Talk about down home!

The dinette is famous for their homemade corned beef hash, which takes a day of preparation by a chef whose sole job is to bring this tasty treat to fruition. Among the numerous egg dishes and omelets, The “Idaho” is among the regulars’ favorites. A hearty plate of homefries smothered with bacon, scallions and cheese will have you begging, “just one more bite please” despite the tension in your waistband. The popular Monkey Pancakes combine blueberries and bananas for a flavor explosion (for true pancake nirvana, pay $1 extra for real maple syrup). Banana pecan French toast is made from banana pecan bread baked fresh daily on premises (where else?), and has a flavor and complexity that is light-years ahead of sliced bread. Dessert after breakfast? You said it! Scrumptious cookies, also homemade using a top-secret recipe, are worth grabbing on the way out for an on-the-road fix later. That’s right, daddy-o, you’ll be hapi to step back in time at Glen’s again and again.

23 East Main St., Babylon Village
Breakfast served 6:30am-3pm, Mon.-Sat.
(631) 669-4700, glensdinette.com

When you hear people talk about top breakfast places on Long Island, you will undoubtedly hear the name Maureen’s Kitchen. There is a valid reason for this and you’ll find out as soon as your nose crosses the threshold. But before you can act on that olfactory enticement, expect to wait because customers come from across the island for a seat at this breakfast nook. Maureen’s resembles a rural country eatery, featuring an open floor plan and worn wood floors. It’s almost as if the entrance teleports you to a locale in the hinterlands of New England, Pennsylvania or beyond. There is cow art everywhere—big cows, small cows, comical cows, traditional cows and everything in between. The waitstaff is busy and there is constant foot traffic and bustling activity restaurant-wide. This diner paused long enough to wonder how many marathons the fine ladies slinging coffee have run across those floors.

All of that fades away quickly though because, above all else, Maureen’s delivers top-notch eats. “Try our fresh baked muffins,” urges a prominent message on the menu, and the aphorism did not disappoint. The pumpkin walnut and pistachio cranberry muffins deliver nutty goodness with the option of being lightly toasted and buttered (less of an option and more of a must, actually). The nearly dinner plate-sized pancakes are absolutely scrumptious and in all variety of guises—banana nut, Oreo cookie, apple cinnamon and, the absolute best, pistachio pancakes. Green-colored due to the titular ingredient, they are warm and fluffy with a topping of crushed pistachios. (Not that you could go wrong with the Oreo ones.) Their homemade baked oatmeal is of a “best-ever” class boasting bits of apple and cranberry pieces and warm milk on the side. They can also throw down on the egg front, with such perfectly-cooked specialty omelets as a portabella mushroom, bacon, scallion and goat cheese combo. Another innovative as well as tasty dish is the croissant French toast with cream cheese and raspberry preserves, with layers of fruity and creamy flavor. If you consider yourself any kind of morning snacker, make it your mission to experience this granddame of the local breakfast world. The syr…hold on, I’ll be right back—

1 Larson Ave., Smithtown
Breakfast served all day, starting at 6am Mon.-Fri. and 7am Sat.-Sun.
(631) 360-9227

On bustling Old Country Road in Carle Place, a small diner sports a vertical neon sign and a line out its door. When it opened in 1946, Nassau County was still mostly farmland. From that time to the present, most of the locals have claimed this eatery as their favorite breakfast place. Welcome to the local institution known as Thomas’s Ham & Eggery Diner, a place of classic diner features, including stylish vintage stools and funky color schemes. There is true breakfast artistry within these walls. Thanks to the efficient, helpful waitstaff, coffee is liberally dispensed and patrons can enjoy a fast meal at the counter, leading to a quick turnover of customers (i.e., shorter lines there). And though the meals may be fast, it doesn’t mean that flavors suffer.

Tasty, eye-catching fresh cookies, muffins and baked pies greet the entering hungry patrons, a harbinger of the breakfast feast to come. A typical diner trifecta of pancakes, waffles and French toast are taken to rarefied levels here. The harvest apple pancakes are loaded with fresh, crisp apples, a touch of cranberries and nuts all baked within. French toast comes slathered in Nutella and whipped cream, and the chocolate almond chip waffles are a chocaholic’s dream (the chocolate chips laid on top melt perfectly with each and every bite). Then there are the frittatas. They are the absolute best dish and may be just what the line outside is all about. Monster-sized, open-faced spaceships of omelets, they are at least two meal’s worth of food and surely the topic of plenty “remember that amazing omelet?” tales. The standout bacon and Gorgonzola frittatas are a mélange of tangy and smoky flavor, and the vegetable frittata is dotted with perfectly-cooked veggies smoothly incorporated into the egg. This relic of an earlier, simpler Nassau is just the place to stop the clock.

325 Old Country Rd., Carle Place. Breakfast served all day starting at 6am, (516) 333-3060

A warm and artsy place in a warm and artsy waterfront town. Port Jefferson’s Toast Coffeehouse is a bohemian hangout extraordinaire with people traveling high and low to drop by for a bite. Contributing to the unique aura is the (buyable) artwork on the walls that changes monthly in conjunction with artist consortium FRESH Art Long Island (paintings of jazz greats covered the walls in a recent visit). The comfy brown walls and quirky lighting complete the relaxed vibe. Casual dress rules here, with the nimble waitstaff sporting jeans (or shorts) and t-shirts. Toast’s coffee selections are the first indication this is not a typical, unremarkable greasy spoon. Graham cracker or Swiss mocha almond coffees blend innovative flavor profiles with solid java goodness. The vessels for these one-of-a-kind coffees are a vast array of differently shaped and sized coffee mugs. No two are alike, just like in your own kitchen cabinet. And yes, Toast does serve toast. It is a fresh, homemade and darn tasty multi-grained prince du pain.

The cleverly named omelets have a dizzying array of meats, veggies and cheeses in combination, and appropriately enough for a harbor-side eatery, the “Down Port” contains lump crab. But the star of the show is the newest and most popular menu addition—the BLT avocado omelet, with a perfectly-cooked, creamy center and bold flavor. The sweet potato waffles are absurdly good as well, but the grand poobah breakfast item is the utterly-decadent, shareable, must-try graham cracker crusted French toast stuffed with peanut butter and bananas, and covered with caramel sauce along with optional cinnamon and pecans. Simply put: Heaven on a plate and worth the price of the trip—one that might end with a canvas in one hand and a doggie bag in the other.

242 East Main St., Port Jefferson Breakfast served 8am-3pm daily (631) 331-6860, toastcoffeehouse.com

Dressing up for Sundays is just one of those things mama taught you. Do her proud and keep the traditions at these chic eateries where a delectable late-morning feast will be served with first-class mimosas. Hey, bring mom while you’re at it. (Reservations recommended.)

Atlantica
Allegria Hotel Long Beach
(516) 992-3730, allegriahotel.com
Atlantica offers both a chic, modern ambiance and spectacular ocean views as the setting for their Sunday brunches, happening from 11:30am-3:30pm.

Bistro Cassis
Wall St, Huntington
(631) 421-4122, bistrocassis.com
Authentic French cuisine is the name of the game here, and this influence is seen in the brunch menu’s salads, sandwiches and other bites.

Limani
Northern Blvd, Roslyn
(516) 869-8989, limaniny.com
This Mediterranean hotspot has two seatings for Sunday brunch: 11:30am and 1:30pm. While the usual fare is available, they also offer innovative spins on such European dishes as paella and moussaka. Sometimes, they even roast lamb on the spit right outside.

Milk and Sugar Café
Main St, Bay Shore
(631) 969-3655, milkandsugarcafe.com
Marrying flavors with ambiance, Milk and Sugar offers a classic Sunday brunch from 9am-2pm (last seating at 1:30pm), in their upscale but comfortable dining room sporting comfy couches.

Rein
Garden City Hotel
(516) 747-3000, gardencityhotel.com
Rein has one of the most sumptuous Sunday brunch menus on the Island—sushi, shellfish, carved meats, pasta, omelets, waffles and so much more. Happening from 12-5pm.

Waterzooi
Franklin Ave, Garden City
(516) 877-2177, waterzooi.com
This Belgian bistro has brunch with a European slant Saturday and Sunday from 12-3pm. Waffles (of course) abound, along with a formidable selection of mussel varieties and preparations, sandwiches and more.

Within the solitude of a bucolic, weather-warped barn in Springs, Jackson Pollock abandoned traditional artistic conventions (e.g., paint applicator types, canvas positions, representational boundaries) and developed the “drip technique,” an immediate expression of the painter’s unconscious achieved through assured, free-form movements, and the deft immersion of mind and body in his work.

It was uninhibited, elegant chaos—a pure harmony.

It was art.

Fifty-four miles from Springs, in Patchogue, Blue Point Brewing Company operates the longest-active brewery on Long Island. Since 1998, fifty three years following Pollock’s move to the East Hampton hamlet with wife, Lee Krasner, the duo of Pete Cotter and Mark Burford have created small-production, handcrafted batches of beer, and helped to establish an educated ale-and-lager culture on Long Island that continues to prosper and expand (Barrier Brewing Company, Blind Bat Brewery, Fire Island Beer Company, Great South Bay Brewery, Greenport Harbor Brewing Company and Long Ireland Beer Company have all opened since 2007) across both counties.

Similar to the artist who defines his work as an extension of self, or an exposé of psyche, Cotter and Burford (president and brewmaster, respectively) regard beer-making as more than an interest and occupation; to the two partners who befriended one another as patrons of Fadeley’s Deli Pub, and later, became co-workers at the now-defunct Cobblestone Winery and Brewery in Huntington, beer is life.

“Beer is a constant-evolving thing and we still don’t know much about it,” says Burford. “It’s an interesting mixture of science, because you’re experimenting with living organisms and art, because you’re always creating. We just try to give it our best shot.”

On   an oppressively humid morning in early September, Burford and Cotter arrive at Blue Point Brewing Company—a chain-garaged stretch of fermenters, forklifts, bottle lines and grain sacks—with caffeine and an aura of enthusiastic uncertainty. While their multi-brewer craft-staff labors five days per week, often performing double-shifts, and is accountable for an estimated annual production of 50,000 barrels of beer (equal to 1,550,000 gallons), today’s brewing schedule possesses no similarity to prior Blue Point batches.

It is void of repeat staple recipes and without personal precursors.

“We just have to wait and see if the truck comes on time,” says Cotter, gesturing toward his watch. “If it does, then we’re in business.”

Less than twenty-four hours prior, an email was received from Hopunion, a vertically-integrated hop purveyor based in Yakima, Washington; that morning, a brown-boxed collective began its cross-country trek to New York. Its contents: One hundred pounds of wet hops.

Hops, one of beer’s essential ingredients, are the female flower cones of the Humulus lupulus plant, used to impart bitterness to balance malt profiles, provide desirable aromas and preserve fresh quality. Breweries will often use conventional pelletized or dried whole flower hops, which are easily obtainable and year-round usable, compared to moisture-dense wet hops, available only once per year (hop harvest occurs during late-August/September) via reservation, contract or one’s own farmed plants.

While dry hops are utilized within all beer styles, during all seasons, wet hops are reserved for smaller, autumn-period batches, often accompanied by an agricultural name and narrative. If wet hops are employed in a recipe, it must be almost immediately following their pluck from the lupulus bine, when the flower’s natural oils and resins (and consequently, its fresh flavors) are at their peak.

“Wet hops begin to lose their characteristics and their fresh, distinct flavors seconds after they leave the vine,” explains Burford.

Translation: Every second counts.

This time-race poses minimal concern for breweries that cultivate their own hops or have direct access to farms doing so; the process from bine to brew kettle can be completed in minutes. But for Blue Point Brewing Company, unclassifiable under either category, the sole alternative is a commercial hop supplier, such as Hopunion, to provide the necessary ingredients.

“Our name was up on Hopunion’s waiting list, and the hops were ready to be shipped, so we dropped everything and decided to make a new beer,” says Burford.

“We’ve never used them before, so we’re a bit nervous,” adds Cotter. “But this is as fresh as fresh can be. This wet hop experiment will be part of our history.”

As the afternoon arrives premeditated, Cotter and Burford traipse about the brewery, inked-and-scribbled papers clutched, formulating flavor concepts for Wet Hop Pale Ale. They hope to create a “well-balanced pale ale with the rich pine and resin only wet hops can impart,” while offering “that trademark, West Coast skunk.”

Maneuvering around chugging machinery and sidestepping puddles emanating from clamped hoses, the two co-founders are contemplative, perhaps entranced. Similar to Pollock treading on canvas with alkyd enamel-blotched boots, fifty-three years prior, they exist only within their work.

This immersed state is further amplified by an almost-inaudible voice from the loading dock.

“It’s here!”

As staff collects outside, two wet hop varieties, Amarillo and Simcoe, harvested by Virgil Gamache Farms and BT Loftus Ranches, Inc., respectively, are trucked into the premises and unloaded. It is the first shipment of hops from Hopunion to the East Coast.

“I can’t get over the aroma,” says Cotter, his oily, cone-piled palms to his nose. “This is why we do what we do. You just fall in love all over again.”

After six hours of anticipation, and preparatory steps (milling the grain bill, mashing to convert starches into fermentable sugars), the afternoon’s denouement is swift, albeit intense. Jim Richards, senior brewer, and Chris Amcher, brewer, submerge ninety pounds of whole flower wet hops into the already-boiling wort (liquid extracted during the grain’s mash process), as masses of steam obstruct clarity and appear to swallow the brewery. Burford and Cotter, adjacent, tinker wide-eyed with last-stage recipe adjustments and relay instructions.

“This is the creative part,” Burford says, after his decision to include the last ten pounds of hops into the boil. “We’re hoping more flavor will be released from the heat. But it’s a constant experiment. We’ll have to see how it turns out.”

What began as an email from Washington is now a cooling, amber-hued liquid, encased within one of Blue Point Brewing Company’s fifteen fermentation tanks. The fermentation process, or the conversion of glucose, via yeast, to ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide, will last “about three weeks,” when Wet Hop Pale Ale is ready to be served exclusively in Blue Point’s tasting room. There, it will encounter a myriad of palates, and subsequently, opinions of its flavor profile, aroma, and complexity.
People will taste. People will discuss.

Yet for Burford and Cotter, their satisfaction derives from the process of brewing, more so than the result.

It is the process, which defines their art.

“You’re building something with your hands, and every day is different,” says Cotter. “It’s been a good ride so far.”

Halloween is on its way and happens to be an astronomically significant holiday. The reason is that it falls on the last of the four Cross Quarter days of the Solar Calendar. A Cross Quarter day is a day that comes midway between an Equinox and a Solstice; in the case of Halloween, midway between the Autumnal Equinox and the Winter Solstice. For pre-Christian Celts and other ancient cultures, Cross Quarter days marked the beginnings and ends of the seasons; Equinoxes and Solstices took place right in the middle. This differs from our own calendar, in which the beginnings and ends of seasons correspond to Equinoxes and Solstices. Nevertheless, vestiges of ancient Cross Quarter celebrations remain with us today. Among such vestiges are the celebrations of Groundhog Day on February 2, May Day on May 1, Lammas Day on August 1 and, of course, Halloween on October 31.

Halloween is also associated with the Pleiades star cluster, which, in olden times, rode highest in the sky at the end of October. During those times, the Pleiades were considered to be harbingers of cataclysmic events, including the return of the dead, as were comets and eclipses. Today, the Pleiades reach their highest point in the sky during November.

* Jupiter will be bright and easy to spot throughout October. Look for it in eastern skies during the early evening hours. Jupiter reaches opposition (most full illumination) on October 29.
* Neptune and Uranus will also be visible in the early evening, but these more-distant planets require a telescope to be fully appreciated.
* Comet Elenin, recently discovered by Leonid Elenin, a Russian amateur, will approach Earth most closely on October 16. It should be visible in binoculars, but far more interesting views can be had with a telescope and, perhaps, some imaging gear.
* The Orionid meteor shower is expected to peak on October 21, but the shower is irregular and may reach its peak earlier. Expect about 20 meteors per hour with best viewing after midnight.

SOUTHFORK KITCHEN
Bridgehampton (631) 537-4700

Southfork Kitchen in Bridgehampton is a serious, substantial seafood restaurant that strives to respect the Island’s waters and land while dazzling the Hamptons’ high-profile glitterati. Most of the time, this rustic, cool, woody, cabin-like spot, with its refined, polished service, back-to-nature ingredients and creative chef (Joe Isidori, a CIA graduate who earned a Michelin star at DJT in Las Vegas) succeeds. The fashionable folks are flocking to this unique eating place that features imaginatively-prepared local fish caught on hook and line, vegetables and artisan products and they’re paying $68 a head for the restaurant’s three-course prix fixe dinner to do it.

Just about everything served at the Southfork Kitchen is, as a press release proclaims, “grown, caught, raised or baked right here.” That means the fruit, wine, cheese and seafood are for the most part from nearby. Owner Bruce Buschel, a renaissance man who writes for hip publications (Rolling Stone, GQ, The Village Voice) has directed Jazz films and even created a musical, is the driving force behind a vision that attempts to “keep the fingerprints and carbon footprints” of his ever-changing, sustainable, local and seasonal menu to a minimum.

Inside, Southfork Kitchen strikes a rural-industrial pose. The sound of muted Jazz fills a room filled with candles, pillows and piping on booths and overhead fixtures whose bare bulbs cast a subdued light on the shiny tables below. Hanging lights encircle the room’s perimeter. Substantial whole-grain bread from Blue Duck and house-made butter arrive in small, square, rough-hewn wooden boxes. A complimentary trio precedes appetizers. There’s a fresh, North Shore oyster with some salmon roe on the half shell, a tiny spoon of tasty salmon-like arctic char tartar, and crunchy, noteworthy cucumber and radish slices.

The hands-down choice among the starters is the rich, aromatic, Southfork Kitchen chowder with its local clams, soy-cured bacon, tender stems-on baby vegetables (turnip, asparagus, potatoes, etc.) swimming in a nautical touched soup. Less impressive were crispy sardines full of tiny, off-putting bones that made eating them difficult. A smooth, even velvety, starter of Iacono Farm’s chicken liver pâté is recommended, especially when it’s spread onto the peasantry whole grain bread (you will have to dig through the radishes and pickles that cover it).

The tender soft shell crab (all of it was eatable) crowned by a once over lightly fried egg and wrapped in smoky prosciutto makes for an interesting and rewarding entrée. Jurgielwicz Farms smoked duck, with sugar snaps, cipollini and wheat berries, was tasty, fatty and juicy while a pot of Prince Edward Island mussels, mixed with thick little bits of Heritage bacon, kim chi and Thai basil passed muster, but arrived without a small fork or plate for the empty shells.

At dessert time, a Mecox Bay dairy cheese plate (cheddar, taleggio, stilton, gruyère and camembert) escorted by Miss Amy’s preserves and Bee’s Needs honey is a triumph of taste, texture and freshness. A pudding-like, deeply-flavored chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream was a sundae-type treat and so too was a silken butterscotch pudding. But the popcorn over it seemed like innovation for innovation’s sake (or for shock value) rather than an enhancement of the dish.

Some diners will no doubt be discouraged by the $68 tab (although less than a year-old, Southfork Kitchen has gone from an á la carte menu to a $55 prix fixe to a $60 prix fixe to the present $68 prix fixe). Add tax and tip, a glass of wine ($10 to $23) or even an iced tea ($5) and the bill will approach $100 per person. (Those who eat at the bar, ordering from its á la carte menu can probably cut about $10 off a similar meal.)

The enlightened one-of-a-kind dining experience at Southfork Kitchen has proved to be immensely popular. They obviously are doing something right. Despite opening in October 2010 after the marauding Manhattan foodies and restaurant critics had left the East End and then a fire that closed the restaurant this past June and early July, Southfork Kitchen is packing them in.
 

photos by stephen lang

Read more Food Reviews from Long island Pulse!

MITCH & TONI’S AMERICAN BISTRO
Albertson (516) 741-7940

Glen Head’s loss is Albertson’s gain. Mitch SuDock, who presided over the tiny standalone Bistro M, next to the railroad tracks there for seven years, has, along with co-owner Toni Contino, who ran the front of the house, moved on to establish Mitch & Toni’s American Bistro in Albertson. Their new, modern enterprise, where Citrus had been, is a white tablecloth venture of mirrors, candles, glass partitions, harmonizing burnt orange and chocolate brown walls with whimsical art on those walls.

The place has been packed on weekdays as well as weekends since it opened less than six months ago. And with good reason. Mitch SuDock knows what he’s doing and does it very well. He, like other chefs, has his strengths and weaknesses, but I’ve always regarded him as one of the Island’s most gifted kitchen commanders. One who, despite often glowing reviews, never received quite the recognition he deserved. Somehow when the likes of top toques, like Mike Maroni, Guy Ruege, Tom Schaudel and Matthew Hisiger were cited by local foodies, Mr. SuDock’s name often went unmentioned. That might well change as a result of his increased visibility and exposure at Mitch & Toni’s where his comprehensive, multi-choice menu features accessible dishes seasonably appropriate based on local ingredients.

Dinners begin with a centerpiece of refreshing smoked salmon mousse encircled by crisp toast rounds and a loaf of dense, crusty bread accompanied by generous slabs of butter. We followed them up with a Mesclun salad ($10), not just the too often encountered amalgam of tired, predictable greens, but a more imaginative assemblage of strawberry slices, beet bits, super fresh goat cheese, red onion, pecans and sprightly wonton strips in a sesame vinaigrette dressing. Every bit its equal was the tender, delectable grilled octopus ($17), two long tentacles atop an enticing bed of gigante beans, olives, caper berries, celery, fennel and red onion napped in a roasted garlic-honey vinaigrette. Less memorable, but quite respectable, were soothing, mild-tasting shrimp dumplings ($13). Crab and corn ravioli ($13) well reflected the seasonality of Mitch & Toni’s menu and harbored corn so fresh that it tasted as though it had just been cut from the cob.

Main events consisted of a hefty, tasty, but slightly dry, hunk of bourbon-glazed pork porterhouse ($25) paired with some moist, noteworthy shitake mushroom and pine nut farro; a pristine pistachio crusted square of day boat Halibut ($32) with more than a dollop of creamy, silken polenta given a welcome tang from its lemon beurre blanc; a soft, sizable, running with juices filet mignon with a batch of cubed, fried potatoes and garlic spinach ($34); and a colossal blue ribbon burger ($17). This 10-ounce, flavor-packed beauty, with a too big to finish serving of good French fries, lettuce, tomatoes, mushrooms and cheddar or blue cheese, more than held its own with any entrée on the menu.

Smallish desserts (all $8) sampled were: a moist, red velvet layer cake with berries and the mandatory cream cheese icing; a rather bland peach cobbler; a raspberry linzer tart somewhat overwhelmed by a scoop of house made, deeply flavored chocolate sorbet; and a terrific, crusty chocolate fudge brownie striped with decadent chocolate fudge and accompanied by cinnamon ice cream.

Mitch & Toni’s is an upbeat spot. It can get quite noisy, yet while it could benefit from some absorbent fabric or soundproofing, it, unlike many Island restaurants, provides understandable table conversation that is never obliterated.

photos by stephen lang

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HUNTINGTON SOCIAL
Huntington (631) 923-2442

I suspect Huntington Social will be a “local-boy-makes-good” story. This casual, upscale, 50-seat restaurant that opened in early July in the heart of Huntington Village is owned by Christopher Lee, a hometown chef and three partners (one of whom, Rocky Bruno, owns Christopher’s about a block away). Mr. Lee, who grew up in Huntington Station and graduated from the California Culinary Academy, had worked at some of this country’s most prestigious restaurants including Daniel, Jean Georges and Oceana in Manhattan. Now he has returned to his hometown to open Huntington Social where the youth-oriented night club Chesterfields (and before that Talk of the Town and Cinnamon’s) held forth for many years.

Perched on the second floor of Huntington’s central intersection of Routes 110 and 25A (Main Street), Mr. Lee describes his new enterprise as “a 1920s Prohibition era speakeasy gastro pub,” none of which I sensed during my visit on a slow, summery Sunday night. Rather it’s a pleasant venue of red-velvet banquettes, shiny wood floors, a graceful center-of-the-room chandelier and a long, exposed, brick-backed bar. It offers friendly, snappy service, views of downtown Huntington, modest prices, highbrow ingredients and a limited menu (seven entrées) of familiar, dependable, sometimes creative dishes. Patrons enter by climbing up a long, carpeted flight of stairs (it’s not for the handicapped) with red walls sporting whimsical works of art.

A recent dinner began with selections from both the “snacks” and “appetizers” sections of the menu. (They are very much alike in price and type of dishes). A ton of Cajun fries ($7) in a paper cone were alive with Asiago cheese and enhanced by their smooth, tasty Creole dipping sauce. The wedge salad ($10) is a flat, circular slab topped with smoky bacon, oven-dried tomatoes and a blue cheese dressing. It’s a bit difficult to keep it all together on a fork, but worth the effort. Three veal cheek “Banh Mi” sliders ($12), layered with a citrus sesame aioli, pickled carrots and cilantro were interesting though not quite as exotic as their Vietnamese Banh Mi billing promised.

Among the main courses sampled were: a grilled Fontina cheese sandwich ($16), a gentle little dish lifted a bit above the usual by the meat of braised short ribs laced into the cheese; a fresh, well-prepared Scottish salmon ($26) enhanced by its imaginative accompaniments like tiny, tender English peas and tasty fava beans in a tarragon crème fraiche sauce; and a mellow, man-sized, on-the-bone hunk of braised lamb shank ($28) on a non traditional cassoulet made with summer beans.

When choosing end of the meal sweets (all $8), give consideration to “the Social Sundae,” which is a take on of the so-called Elvis Sundae. It seems Presley went for this peanut butter, ice cream, banana combination. Its chocolate fudge sauce and honey don’t hurt a bit either. Three red-velvet cupcakes crowned with cooling vanilla cream cheese were moist, rich and rewarding while the strawberry shortcake with so-called bubble gum Chantilly will interest diners who prefer the old-fashioned biscuit variety.

When to try the no reservations Huntington Social is a bit of a dilemma. As with most restaurants, it’s busiest on Friday and Saturday nights. Yet those are the most likely nights that Mr. Lee might be in the kitchen. He has other restaurants and projects that prevent him from being ever present and as Huntington Social becomes better established he will be available locally less and less. Fortunately his Executive chef, Julia Doyne gave a good accounting of her culinary skill when we visited.

photos by stephen lang

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Epileptic trees inhibit imbibery and subsequent happy-fun-yay time. [Front]
Damn you, Irene. [Back]
What is: Failed t-shirt tag-lines for non-hurricanes.

NASSAU

Waterzooi Belgian Bistro
(516) 877-2177, Garden City
waterzooi.com
Lots o’ mussel pot potentials (Homard, Waterzooi, Montrachet, Bouillabaisse, Lucifer, Fra Diavlo, Creole, Thai, Oreganato, Provencal, Fondue Moules, Farmhouse Ale, Paella) may cause Mussel Pot Lunch Selection Anxiety Disorder (MPLSAD), but not if one’s company is Val-Dieu Triple, a golden coin-colored Belgian with notes of plantains, honey, green grapes and sweet bread. And not if your waiter (or, in this case, waiterzooi) is this awesome:

“Your phone just got a text message. Would you like me to hand it to you?”

P.S. Val-Dieu and I selected the Farmhouse Ale mussel pot (North Country smoked bacon, oven-dried tomatoes, creamy farmhouse ale broth).

Mr. Beery’s
(516) 579-7049, Bethpage
mrbeerys.com
Beery’s is an eighteen-year craft institution, and Steve is still behind the stick, pint-serving (our visit: Lagunitas Brewing Company Lucky 13, Great South Bay Brewery Robert Moses Pale Ale, and Tröegs Brewing Company HopBack Amber Ale) and recounting tales of weirdo Florida visitors. The whiskey education was cool, too. Bonus points and several 1UPs for the cigarette machine and taxidermy brown bear (more cuddles than Katahdin in Prophecy).

Oh.

And Beery’s opens at 8:00AM for the graveyards.

SUFFOLK

Hometown Craft Brewery Loves Hugs.

The Tap Room
(631) 569-5577, Patchogue
thetaproomli.com
After weeks of intensive statistical research and content analysis at Red Zone BioCorp, Inc., our team of quantum beericists confirm the distance between The Tap Room and Blue Point Brewing Company as 3,696’, or 44,352”, if one requires an additional unit of metric. Furthermore, the former establishment, The Tap Room, dedicates a five-line draft tower*, and a pint club, to the latter establishment, Blue Point Brewing Company. [Pause for audience contemplation. Ignore audience questions.] We shall now conclude with this: The Tap Room and Blue Point Brewing Company, sitting in a tree, B-E-E-R-I-N-G…

*Extra Special Bitter (ESB), Hoptical Illusion, RastafaRye Ale, Summer Ale, Toasted Lager

Declan Quinn’s
(631) 206-2006, Bay Shore
facebook.com/declan.quinns
Interior: Three Great South Bay Brewery drafts, including one rotating, nitrogen-dispensed line (current: Splashing Pumpkin Ale).

Exterior: Three Great South Bay Brewery drafts, poured from patio wood fundeck (weather allowable).

Together: Six spiral notebook hearts around Great South Bay Brewery logo.

Translation: Hometown Craft Brewery Loves Hugs.

Click here to follow Niko Krommydas and his blog, Super Neat Beer Adventure, Yes!!, where you can find more nightlife reviews.

Photo by Steven Lang

NASSAU

Ocean Grill
(516) 208-9604, Freeport
Classy Italian/American cuisine on Freeport’s Nautical Mile. Live acoustic music on the weekends—a great place for a family night out.

Jack Halyard’s Restaurant
(516) 922-2999, Oyster Bay
This is a very “north shore” bar and grill—both casual and upscale with a nautical theme. Open mics on Tuesdays and live music on Thursdays and Fridays. The amazing folk trio “Gathering Time” brings its harmonies to the stage here fairly often. 

SUFFOLK

Roast Coffee & Tea Trading Company
(631) 627-3966, Patchogue
While hifalutin’ coffee shops may abound these days, this one boasts fair trade coffee and tea, and staff who are actually friendly and down-to-earth. Instead of paying lip service to supporting local music, these guys actually do. Check out the Tuesday and Friday open mics with Hank Stone, and select local acoustic acts on the weekend.

Lulu’s
(631) 509-5635, Port Jefferson
Lulu’s is truly all about the music, featuring original bands from all over the Island. Big stage with a big dance floor (or mosh pit) and a separate area with tables if you want to play it low key. Great place to see and hear your favorite local act in a big-stage setting.

NASSAU

Chi Dining Lounge
(516) 385-3795, Westbury
chidininglounge.com
Chi is a slick hotspot in the heart of Nassau County. Known for their Wild Wednesdays, their specialty is a wide range of tasty signature, dessert-like drinks such as The Cupcake, Triple Chocolate Truffle or Cookie Monster. The wine list is extensive and contains vintages from all over the world by the bottle or glass. The music gets louder after the dinner crowd dwindles and the DJ starts spinning.

SUFFOLK

Bistro 72
(631) 369-3325, Riverhead
indigoeastend.com
Summer is officially over, which makes it a great time to head out east. Less traffic, no lines and an overall cooled down environment sounds like a perfect time. Skip exit 70 toward the Hamptons and keep trucking on the LIE to Riverhead. You will find Bistro 72 at Hotel Indigo East End. Located in this new hotel is an enjoyable, distinctive dining experience paired with regional wines. Entertainment is eclectic, with nights of comedy, jazz or jam sessions. Best part: You can book a room and spend the night.

NYC PICK

DUO Restaurant & Lounge
(212) 686-7272, Manhattan
duonewyork.com
The city’s cooled down and the crowds are back after their summer escape. Same ol’ same old? I don’t think so. DUO Restaurant & Lounge on Madison Ave. might just change your routine. High ceilings make for a dramatic entrance and the deep colored lighting brings out a Vegas vibe. Unusual architecture adds to the overall classy décor of this venue. A sultry velvet wall drapes one side of the lounge overlooking the circular bar and scattered candlelit tables.

DUO caters to an upscale, trendy clientele with its excellent atmosphere, service and cuisine. Back-lit menus make reading easy and, ah-ha ladies, a special seat for your purse! Large murals of women and images of butterflies are two major interior motifs as well.

An array of exceptional drinks, including a watermelon cocktail, starts the night off right. The staff is extremely mindful of your specific taste requirements and will suggest items to help make the decision easy when choosing from the scrumptious options. The cuisine truly cinches the deal. The carpaccio is a skillfully executed classic dish with a wide variety of toppings and the presentation of the “duo” ahi tuna makes it hard to wait to dig in. The fish entrées shine along with the truffle mashed potatoes.

Exotic music beats from the lounge while you munch on one of their fabulous dessert options alongside another drink or variety of teas presented in a big fishbowl. After the meal, hanging out in the bar area might just snag you a few tips from hip trendsetters.

Recently my passion in the wine world has not been for a particular wine or region, but for the business of wine. This passion causes me to scour the Internet for information and knowledge. I have gotten excited about the politics of wine and the laws that make buying wine directly from a producer or a store in another state difficult. I have come across excellent content, both in virtual and traditional print form, and some that are a combination of both.

Currently I am reading Wine Wars on a Kindle App, which is a book about the wine business by Mike Veseth, a Professor of International Political Economy at the University of Puget Sound in Washington State. I discovered this new book through reading his blog, The Wine Economist (wineeconomist.com). Not only is there a blog about wine economics, there is also an association and yearly conference held in some great locations including Bolzano in Northern Italy this past year and UC Davis in California the year before. I highly recommend reading this if you are at all interested in the wine industry or work in the industry in any capacity. There is such great background on wine markets. Mike touches on everything from Blue Nun and Trader Joe’s to Lafite in China and explains why certain wine history has evolved and impacted the economics of wine. I remember some of the wine history in his book from other wine books I have read, such as the great book about the Gallo Family and their wine business holdings, Blood & Wine: The Unauthorized Story of the Gallo Wine Empire. The Blood & Wine book was forced out of publication shortly after it was released and for many years it was difficult to find. While I have read many wine books that are only reference guides, I enjoy books like these that offer a story about a part of the wine industry or history. Two others that deserve attention are Wine and War: The French, the Nazis, and the Battle for France’s Greatest Treasure by Donald and Petie Kladstrup, and Napa: The Story of an American Eden by James Conaway.

Wine & War gives the background of how the wine regions of France handled the devastation of war trampling through their beloved vineyards and the looting of world-class wines by the Nazis and a great look at the heroes of France’s wine regions. The Napa book tells the story of how Napa was built from the days before, during and after Prohibition and the famous families and individuals. Napa spends plenty of time discussing the Mondavi family and the different directions each brother took, and how it affected the Californian wine industry. There is also a more recent book that chronicles the Mondavi “Wine Dynasty”— The House of Mondavi by Julia Flynn Siler. The book focuses on the Robert Mondavi family and the sad way their famed winery was sold to a giant corporation.

Wine is about wonderful people, history and stories, but besides books about such, reference books are also very important to a wine lover’s library. We need to be able to find out about the soils or grapes or climate of our favorite wine regions when interested. Soon, however, much of the reference material for wine will be found through the Internet, but that can be a minefield as there are plenty of falsehoods and folklore found on the web. But on the positive side of wine reference on the web, wine regions and styles are always changing and printed material can’t keep up, while the Internet is flexible when things in the wine world change.

Pumpkin schnapps or liqueur is the iconic fall flavoring in this cocktail. A “schnapps” in American vernacular is technically a liqueur, alcohol flavored with any number of fruits, herbs, nuts, spices, flowers or creams with added sugar. In the pumpkin variety, there is a subtle pumpkin-y flavor, mixed with graham cracker, vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg tastes, so it would more accurately be called “pumpkin pie” liqueur.

Ingredients:
½ shot Kahlua liqueur

½ shot Pumpkin schnapps or liqueur
2 shots Rum
Milk

Cinnamon

Whipped cream

Pour shots of Kahlua, pumpkin schnapps or liqueur, and rum into a 6-ounce glass. Top with milk, garnish with cinnamon and top with whipped cream (optional).

Recipe inspired by a drink created at McFadden’s Restaurant and Saloon at the Rio All-Suite Hotel & Casino in Las Vegas.

“The dish has to be eye catching. I like to tower a dish vertically. Add the sound of it sizzling; the aroma that wafts by the diner, the touch and finally the taste and it is perfect,” Terrence Cave declares.

Terrence Cave is Executive Chef at Nisen Sushi Woodbury, an eclectic American/Sushi restaurant, which entices diners to enter with its elegant Asian style décor and inviting sushi counter. The concept is to give customers a choice by combining fine dining and sushi. Tom Lam is the Sushi Chef and co-owner of Nisen Sushi in Commack and co-owner of the Woodbury restaurant with Robert Beer.

From a boyhood in P Viners Corner, Batavia to Executive Chef on Long Island is quite a trek in culture and cuisine. Terrence started by training at the Institute of Culinary Education in Manhattan. Then moved to his grandfather’s dairy farm where they also grew vegetables. “Our family opened a small restaurant, where my dad did basic short order cooking, using all fresh and good ingredients. He was my first role model. The first dish I ever made was a fried egg and mustard sandwich on toast,” he remembers.

He speaks highly of his years at the Blue Ribbon Brasserie in SoHo with Eric and Bruce Bromberg. Known for being the spot where celebrity chefs dine, Terrence cooked for Jean-Louis Palladin, Mario Batali and Daniel Boulud. Terrence also treasures his time with Charlie Palmer at Aureole, Metrazur in Grand Central Station and Alva, where he served as Chef de Cuisine. The Cub Room with Henry Meer and Dock’s Oyster Bar where he accepted his first Executive Chef position were notable too. The Fulton Fish Market was still open then and offered him the opportunity to learn how to select fresh seafood daily.

Documenting recipes is important to Terrence. His staff has a cookbook of his recipes to follow for consistency. “I was most inspired by Fernand Point—called Le Roi of Le Pyramide. His book, Ma Gastronomie tells his philosophy, but he failed to leave any of his recipes. Charlie Palmer had a huge library of cookbooks. He would direct us to choose an ingredient, find a recipe and then make it our own. I learned a lot by doing this.”

“One thing a good chef must have, however, is patience. Everything has to be done quickly. There is an economy of motion, but it can’t hit the plate until it is done. To be perfect, flavors have to marry,” Terrence explains.

Recently, a table of two enjoyed a dinner with a starter of green peppers with sea salt, day scallops on chopped black trumpet mushrooms in a Fumé Blanc reduction, Heirloom Tomato Soup, the Signature Dish Pan Seared Ribeye with Wilted Spinach and for dessert Chocolate Bruno. Each course was served with a well-paired wine.

Describing his life in one word, Terrence Cave immediately says, “Satisfying!” With his family comfortably settled on the island and a career he enjoys, you can understand why.

Signature Dish 

Pan Roasted Ribeye Steaks:
This Ribeye recipe was on the menu at The Cub Room in SoHo when Terrence worked there. It is still one of Terrence Cave’s favorites and easy to duplicate at home. This recipe serves four and includes wilted garlic lemon spinach, Maytag bleu cheese (described as clean and bright) and smashed potatoes. It is an easy meal to prepare and will suffice either for entertaining guests or just a hearty family dinner.

Roasted Ribeye Steaks
Wilted garlic lemon spinach
Smashed potatoes
Maytag bleu cheese sauce

Ingredients:
Four ribeye steaks cut about an inch thick
(The butcher at your local market will do this for you.)
Six large Yukon Gold potatoes
Kosher salt 
Black pepper
Baby spinach (2 bags)
Olive oil
Lemon juice
12 oz sweet butter
Maytag bleu cheese 4oz.
(available at better markets, any bleu cheese will do)
Garlic cloves (6)
This is an easy meal to prepare and will suffice either for entertaining guests or just a hearty family meal
Pre heat the oven to 375 degrees

Smashed potatoes
Place the potatoes in a pot, cover them with cold water and add three tablespoons of kosher salt. Bring the water to a boil, turn it down to a simmer and cook until potatoes are tender, so a fork goes in easily.
Strain the water out and add half a pound of butter to the pan and using a masher or a big fork smash and mix the potatoes, skin and all, add salt a pepper to taste as you smash
(Yukon Gold works best for this because the skin is so delicate it incorporates nicely but any potato will do)
Set aside

Steaks
Lay your steaks out side by side and season them generously with salt and pepper. Place a sauté or fry pan on the burner at high heat and add two tablespoons of oil. When the oil begins to smoke gently place the steaks in the pan being careful to separate them.
Crowding them will cause them to steam.
Let the steaks sear until they are browning nicely then turn over and place the pan in the preheated oven for about six minutes.
Remove from the oven place on a cool plate to rest.

Sauce
In a small saucepan place one clove chopped garlic four oz. of Maytag bleu cheese and four oz. of heavy cream add a pinch of salt and a pinch of pepper. Place over low flame and stir together slowly as it melts. 

Spinach
Place a saucepan on low heat and add four tablespoons of olive oil and three cloves slivered garlic.
Heat slowly not allowing the garlic to brown for about two minutes.
Then pour it over the spinach add two ounces of lemon juice, salt and pepper and mix well.
Warm the potatoes, gently stirring so they don’t burn.

Plate and serve
Bon Appetit!

Chow down for charity, become an honorary German carnivore and get quality cupcakes with a capital “Q.” It’s a varied month in Foodie Gossip Land.

For the entire month of October, the Bohlsen Restaurant Group (brgroup.biz) is helping the fight against breast cancer, with $1-$2 donated to local organizations with every special “Think Pink” menu item (featuring dishes with pink embellishments and pink cocktails/wine) ordered at their top eateries. The Huntington Breast Cancer Action Coalition will benefit from Prime in Huntington (631) 385-1515, the West Islip Breast Cancer Coalition will benefit from H2O Seafood Grill in Smithtown (631) 361-6464 and the Islip Breast Cancer Coalition will benefit from Tellers Chophouse in Islip (631) 277-7070, VERACE in Islip (631) 277-3800 and Beachtree in East Islip (631) 277-4800.

While Oktoberfest is one of the peaks of beer consciousness, it is also an opportunity to enjoy the many varieties of German meat recipes. Offering such a bounty for the entire month of October as part of prix fixe for $29.95 is Jake’s Steakhouse in East Meadow (516) 222-8400 and at Pine Grove Inn in Patchogue (631) 475-9843, they have a permanent spot on the menu. These are the mainstays: Sauerbraten (braised marinated beef), Wiener Schnitzel (breaded veal cutlet), Knockwurst and Bratwurst (two varieties of sausage).

Lastly, the very current foodie trend of utilizing healthy ingredients with reputable provenances is happening for the dessert course on LI thanks to the Water Mill Cupcake Company (631) 726-0444. While regular cakes are made on premises, the cupcakes are the flagship items. They have a mix-and-match vibe, traditional vanilla and chocolate, along with yellow cake augmented with orange and lemon zest, to name a few versions of the cake part, complemented by a long list of possible buttercream frostings (cream cheese, coconut, peanut butter snicker, marshmallow and many more). And, of course, they use farm fresh eggs, pure butter, organic sugar, unbleached flours, gourmet chocolate and top-shelf versions of every other ingredient used in the bakery.

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If you don’t know, New York City in fall is exquisite. The leaves turn color and Central Park becomes a melting palette. There is this suggestion of cold in the air—enough to make us break out our jean jackets or mellow sweaters—and the sky feels purer than summer’s hazy daze. Enthusiasts of prose love the black and white seasons: summer and winter. They love their assuredness and their bold and unequivocal statements about whatever. It’s lovers of poetry who fall for the in between ones, and between spring and fall, this writer is a sucker for the latter. We can’t help but be charmed by its nuanced complexity and disarming sense of doom.

Speaking of doom, what’s a column on fall in New York City without a mention of a good old-fashioned haunted house? If ghouls and ghosts are what you’re after this season, then look no further than Timothy Haskell’s Nightmare: New York’s Most Horrifying Haunted House. This crazy performance art masterpiece is the real deal when it comes to serving up fright and is complete with real people, discombobulating sets, disturbing but artful costumes, and a dark verisimilitude that will most likely make you consider the notion of wetting your pants or screaming like a baby at least once on the 20-25 minute walk through. It’s just precious.

Every year is a new theme. When I went a few years back, it was “Ghost Stories,” and I still haven’t forgotten the silent freaky guy waiting for me to pass by who scared the life out of me just by moving his eyes. There was a spinning tunnel and a maze too, but I don’t think I made it all the way through. It was that scary.

The project has hopped around New York City with “Superstitions” and the timely “Vampires” and has now returned to its original home in the lower east side with “Fairy Tales.” Kids under ten are not permitted, by the way—it’s kind of an adult experience though I remember seeing a few brave families there. If you’re considering crunching some leaves on New York City sidewalks while waiting in line for this rather incredible haunted house event, definitely explore the Frequently Asked Questions list first. It may make the difference between…well…life or death. hauntedhousenyc.com.

Pulse Apple Pie

The key player in this cocktail is apple cider, long a staple of fall on Long Island. Thanks to Johnny Appleseed (he was real), apple trees and cider, both the hard and sweet varieties, became ubiquitous across the US. About 1/3 of a bushel of apples makes 1 gallon of apple cider. They are ground into a mash, wrapped in cloth and put in a press. For hundreds of years, it was a grueling manual screw press, but nowadays, an electric hydraulic press does the work. The liquid produced—tangy and unfiltered—undergoes no further processing, if made close enough to the farm, otherwise it is pasteurized.

Ingredients:
1 oz Tequila
1 oz Butterscotch Schnapps
1 oz apple cider
1 tsp fresh lemon juice
Apple slice for garnish

Pour the ingredients into a cocktail shaker filled with ice & cinammon sticks. Shake well. Strain into a chilled cocktail or rocks glass. Add lemon to taste. Garnish with an apple slice. Enjoy.

EAST HAMPTON GRILL
East Hampton (631) 329-6666

The newish East Hampton Grill is hot, hot, hot, good, good, good, but loud, loud, loud.

The foodies have descended on the East End grill. This hip, Hampton-centric hangout has become, at least for the present (trendy Hamptonites are a fickle, changeable bunch), the place to see and be seen. On a rainy weeknight, there were no spaces remaining in the packed parking lot and by 7:30pm, diners had to wait for tables on a fast-growing line.

This slick, sophisticated spot, which replaced Della Femina’s on Main Street, boasting a handsome dark wood beamed ceiling, spot lighting, carpeting, eclectic framed art (including an old American flag with 35 stars), paper over cloth tables, an open kitchen and big yellow spider mums on each table, has successfully captured the Hamptons’ vibe.

Its rollicking, big bar scene and smooth, svelte, fast-moving waitresses further enhance its magnet-like appeal for in-the-know East End restaurant aficionados.

While most of the dishes at the East Hampton Grill were good and some were downright delicious, they often came at high-flaunting prices. A Dover sole special cost $48, starters and salads are at entrée-like levels ($12 to $19, most in the $16 to $19 bracket) and most main courses (better buys than the starters), other than sandwiches, range from $27 to $42.

Every meal here should begin with the accurately-named Heavenly Biscuits ($1.50 to $2 each), big baking soda beauties that are light with a rugged, uneven surface. The honey for dipping was appreciated, but the skimpy, single pat of butter for four people wasn’t. Follow the biscuits with probably the only bargain on the menu—the “nice little house salad” ($7) buried at the end of the “sides” listings. Its goat cheese, walnuts, deviled eggs, corn, tomato and size make it a real find. A couple of other salads also deserve attention. The terrific classic Caesar salad ($12), with its jumbo croutons and Reggiano, is a best of breed pick, while the substantial iceberg wedge and blue cheese salad ($14), with tomatoes and warm beets of two colors, is a cut above the average. Three grilled artichokes ($14) were soft and succulent at their core, a bit more difficult to attack at their surface and arrived with a memorable, but miserly smidgen of housemade remoulade sauce.

Among the main events, the fresh, flaky, ivory-hued Atlantic cod ($29), paired with bok choy and sticky rice platemates, couldn’t have been better. The generous portion of muscular barbecue ribs ($27) with a towering thatch of addictive, though lukewarm, shoestring potatoes and unusually-rich cole slaw were a down-home success story with take-home potential for a second night. And the four, tender, seared scallops ($27) melded perfectly with their white bean ragout, arugula and watercress accompaniments. Only the soft shell crab po’boy ($18) was not exactly destination food. Overly crunch-tough, it was overwhelmed by its homemade bun and over-abundant lettuce and tomatoes.

There are only two desserts ($9) on the menu and both of them are winners. The luxuriant key lime pie, with its graham cracker crust and gobs of whipped cream, is cream rich. And the hot fudge sundae, with its pot of chocolate sauce on the side, is a triumph of ice cream, whipped cream chocolate sauce and syrup.

Those svelte waitresses mentioned earlier are hard-working professionals, but despite a favorable ratio of servers to diners, at times, the crush of the crowds defeats them, as when (among other flaws) our entrées arrived with the entire appetizer plates still uncleared. Finally, you can be forgiven if you find yourself eating faster than you ordinarily do in a non-frenetic setting. The busy East Hampton Grill is less than ideal for diners who don’t equate noise with fun and seek a place for civilized conversation. Rather it’s a perking, going place with hard surfaces, constant ricocheting sound and a clientele often forced to shout over the din.
 

photos by stephen lang

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THE PATIO
Freeport (516) 623-9100

Misfires are few and far between at The Patio, a waterfront, shorts, sneakers and t-shirt kind of place at the canal end of the Freeport Inn and Marina, a 1960’s throwback. Its outdoor 145-seat patio (or deck) overlooking the marina and water beyond it offers a casual, relaxing vibe, some refreshing cold drinks and contemporary American dishes that taste and look better than they do at most laid-back places of this ilk.

Colin McKaharay, (formerly of Louie’s Oyster Bar and Grill and Dockers Waterside Café), the Executive Chef, doesn’t seem to feel the need to overdo. His seafood-centered menu lists understandable, up-front choices like tuna, salmon, lobster, seafood stew, mussels and clams with just enough imaginative twists to make them a bit more interesting than the same ingredients offered elsewhere.

In short, The Patio, with its bare tables, slate floors, thirty-foot bar, dockside nautical views and ten boat slips for the dock and dine crowd, knows it isn’t the Waldorf and doesn’t try to be anything beyond a mellow, modest restaurant. Yet, the sophisticated, upscale presentations apparent in every dish far exceed expectations for an eating place that looks like a blue-collar hangout. Even the first taste here, a loaf of bread, isn’t the usual mass-produced, cottony disaster often encountered, but a crusty, dense treat accompanied by noteworthy olive oil for dipping or butter if requested. All requests, by the way, were quickly responded to by a pleasant, well-informed waitress and an affable, ever-present manager who seemed to be genuinely concerned about his customers.

A smooth (not gloppy) taste-packed potato leek soup ($8), enthusiastically endorsed even by those who ordinarily shun it, was the undisputed starter star. Three tall South Main Street Sliders ($14) layered with American cheese and chimichurri and staked with a fried pickle are also a recommended pick, though a request to cook them other than well done will result in moist, rather than dryish meat. A generous portion of tender calamari ($12) with corn meal crust that fell away before it reached the mouth came with an aioli dip rather than the Asian soy sauce listed on the menu, while the Caesar salad ($10) was slightly underdressed and pallid.

Main events sampled included: a rich, filling, appropriately named Uptown Mac N’Cheese ($23) infused with lobster, shrimp, scallops and baked with gouda and gruyere cheeses; a good, fresh, 1½ pound lobster ($36) with hard, tasteless (non local) corn on the cob; a first-class lobster roll ($21) on a nice soft roll with excellent crisp French fries that’s manageable in one hand; and a wild Scottish filet of orange and dill salmon ($23) marinated in citrus Dijon mustard with an orange and dill glaze and more flavor than the farm raised specimens. Wash down all those appetizers and entrées with a refreshing half-gallon Mason jar of low-alcohol, summer white peach sangria ($38).

There are just four desserts here and they are worth ordering. The good key lime pie ($7) with a commendable pastry crust is more creamy than tangy; the ripe strawberries ($9) with just a dash of whipped cream are nevertheless an appropriate pick for calorie counters; the Moose Tracks pie ($9) is a tasty turret of vanilla ice cream, peanut butter and chocolate syrup; and Junior’s titanic, towering chocolate layer cake ($10), easily enough for two or more diners, might well make you, at least briefly, forget their famous cheesecake.
 

photos by stephen lang

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BEACHOUSE
East Hampton (631) 604-5600

The Hamptons are a bloody battlefield for restaurants. There is no more volatile, competitive area for eating places large or small. They come and go, open and close with bewildering frequency. I have reviewed three, four or five different restaurants over just a few years at the same location. Typical of the genre is the standalone spot at 103 Montauk Highway in East Hampton that has been, over the years, home to Prime 103, J.L. East, Peconic Coast, Dukes and assorted others that have faded from my memory. Restaurants that change their names, menus, chefs and ownership often understandably get a bad reputation.

The new tenant, Beachouse, deserves much more respect than most of these ever-changing, swinging-door operations. I expected to be disappointed, but I wasn’t. In fact, delighted is the best word to describe most of Chef Dennis J. Farrell’s dishes (service is another story, more about that later). Mr. Farrell, formerly of Uncle Jack’s in Manhattan, and owner Michael Gluckman, who also runs the Boathouse and has operated The Lodge and Bamboo, have constructed an appealing menu that nicely balances seafood and meat choices. Then, too, I’d forgotten about the delightful surroundings at this restaurant. It’s a handsome, open, light, airy, multi-windowed place with wide-plank wooden floors, high ceilings and overhead fans. There are two charming, summery, outdoor patio areas and a large private/party room in addition to the ocean dining room.

Unlike so many restaurants, especially in the Hamptons where bone-rattling noise seems to be considered a virtue, that high soundproof ceiling provides a tolerable acoustical level. In other words, diners can hear their waitress, and across-the-table companions, without shouting.

Dinners begin with warm, crusty peasant-like bread and a smooth hummus spread. The seafood-centered appetizer listings yielded whole, tender, char-grilled baby octopus ($14) in a soothing tomato, white bean, lemon oregano sauce; a fine, fresh, sizable mound of jumbo lump crab meat ($16); grilled shrimp and grits ($16) featuring chubby New Orleans style barbecue shrimp and cheese drenched grits; and creative lobster glazed, local sea scallops ($16) on a bed of truffle sweet creamed corn and lemon aioli.

Although entrée possibilities are also seafood dominated, if you are a flamboyant carnivore, there are three prime, dry-aged steaks including a 40-ounce bone-in Cowboy rib eye ($54) and four accompanying sauces. We chose the ten-ounce filet mignon ($38) and found it to be tall, tender and medium-rare as ordered. An assertive, al dente Maine sea urchin bucatini ($26), with a dauntingly-rich, creamy sea urchin sauce starred shaved batarga that’s folded into the pasta’s sauce. A pan-roasted tile fish ($27), cooked with proper restraint, came with a contrasting tomato, bacon marmalade on a bed of white bean purée and a silken white sea bass rested on a platform of confit leeks and parsnip pomme purée.

Desserts ranged from a very ordinary Key Lime pie ($10) to extraordinary homemade chipwich sliders ($10), or four chocolate chip sliders filled with vanilla, chocolate, mint chocolate chip and pistachio ice cream. In between was a rich cheesecake ($12), slightly lighter than the classic New York style. The tempura banana split ($12) would have been better with firm, ripe bananas rather than its warm tempura fried ones.

Most of the time the kitchen is ahead of the waitstaff here, although the occasionally painstakingly slow service might have resulted from a kitchen backup. Other than that, the young, earnest, eager-to-please waitstaff needs further training. The runners who delivered the dishes had no idea who ordered what so they auctioned them off (“Who ordered the steak?”), the wine was late in arriving and the host received only a splash to taste and an over-anxious bus boy hovered over the table, instantly pouncing on empty dishes even as diners were still eating.  Continued on page 132  

photos by stephen lang

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Robby Beaver of The Frisky Oyster describes his life as “organized chaos.”

He celebrated his first anniversary as chef/owner of the chic, city-style spot on Front Street in the heart of Greenport in May. The art deco décor with red leather chairs and metallic bar gives way to a warm dining room with an Asian-influenced red berry wall treatment. Robby proudly introduces his talented kitchen staff and demonstrates his Swiss purifying water system. A rear door leads to the harbor where “frisky” oysters are harvested and delivered daily.

“My cuisine is eclectic American with a French foundation presented simply yet elegantly. I specialize in slow food, sustainable produce and fish and organic local ingredients. Pipe Cove Oysters Friskafella, a takeoff on Oysters Rockefeller, Squash Blossoms stuffed with crab and local corn, seasonal and organic, and The Best Key Lime Pie, an homage to the South, are examples of my style.”

Robby further explains, “Organic food is not new or mysterious. It is how farmers grew produce before chemicals were introduced. Slow cooking to me is cooking, with care and love, recipes that cannot be rushed. A perfect risotto is a good example and a true test of a chef’s culinary skill.”

His transition from his grandmother’s Sunday dinners in Richmond, Virginia to a restaurant in Greenport was quite remarkable. His greatest influence was Jeff Buben of Vidalia’s in Georgetown and Bistro Bis in Capitol Hill, who encouraged him to attend the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park. His fondest memory was cooking for Julia Child and Jacque Pepin at Bistro Bis during the French Culinary Institute Convention. Although just a line cook, he idolized Julia and treasured her Mastering the Art of French Cooking. Currently, he is most inspired by Grant Achatz of Alinea in Chicago known for his simple and creative style.

Robby worked for years as executive Sous Chef under Master Chef/Owner Patrick O’Connell at The Inn at Little Washington, rated #1 in the world in a reader’s poll conducted by Travel and Leisure magazine. This experience was key to shaping his career. The Inn featured farm-to-table produce with pristine local ingredients, beautifully presented and flavorful. Chef Beaver brought this concept to Greenport.

“Greenport has welcomed me and I feel a strong connection to the people here. We were customers of The Frisky Oyster, then owned by Dennis McDermott, long before I began working here. My wife, Shannon, and I recently bought a house in Aquebogue to raise our children, Sean and Nora. I play drums for the North Shore Christian Church band every Sunday. The East End has become home,” he says emphatically.

This talented thirty-four-year-old chef, with his wealth of experience, seems to have the chaos organized and in control.

Signature Dish 
Crispy Tuna Spring Rolls: Robby Beaver’s recipe with basil, cumin and sweet chili sauce is a unique twist on an Asian favorite. The dish was inspired at The Inn at Little Washington, where they shipped tuna from Hawaii overnight. He continues this practice here. This simple, high quality tuna recipe remains on the menu, because the customers insist.

Crispy Tuna Spring Rolls with basil, cumin and sweet chili sauce

8oz. Fresh Sashimi grade Tuna*
8 Basil leaves
8 spring roll wrappers
1 tsp toasted, ground cumin
Kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper
1 egg to seal the rolls
 
Slice the Tuna into logs 4 inches long and 3/4 inch square
Place the wrappers on a dry surface and place a large basil leaf in the center of each
Place 1 piece of tuna on top of each basil leaf and season with salt, pepper and cumin
Roll up the wrapper sealing with a little bit of egg at the edge.
Fry at 375* for 1-2 minutes
Slice in half and serve immediately with sweet chili sauce.

As summer morphs into fall, the word is out that lauded culinary heavyweights have put down stakes on the Island and are ready to blow our minds with their distinctive fare. Meanwhile, we take a look at some hotspots bringing food preparation tableside.

Michelin Star-caliber cuisine has dropped in Roslyn with the opening of MP Taverna (516-686-6486). Uber-chef (and Long Islander) Michael Psilakis, whose NYC-located Anthos received the iconic accolade, is offering haute cuisine versions of Greek dishes as well as hybrid dishes combining cuisine styles, an incredibly detailed wine list, and for large gatherings of every stripe, a whole animal, with baby spring lamb, kid goat and suckling pig to choose from. Chef Christopher Lee, a James Beard Award-winner, and his partners opened Huntington Social…guess where? (631-923-2442). The concept is gastropub/cocktail lounge with a full dining menu, but if you’re in the middle of a night out, check out the “snacks” section for some small, unique bites such as veal cheek sliders, Cajun fries and beef tartare. Also, they provide “liquor lockers” to store prized vintages purchased by frequent customers between visits.

It’s always fun when the food preparation is liberated from the cramped confines of the kitchen, and one of the most dynamic instances of this is hibachi cooking, wherein, with much fanfare, the cook prepares the food in front of you. Kumo in Stony Brook (631-689-8585) has a great hibachi menu, with an array of beef, chicken and seafood, singly or in combination, for the choosing. You can even get as luxe as you want, with twin lobster tails for $32.95 or a “Land & Sea” combination featuring filet mignon, shrimp, scallops and lobster tail for $39.95. Another version of table-prepped cuisine is fondue, and Simply Fondue in Great Neck (516-466-4900) has that covered. There is a dizzying array of combinations, but the “Fondue Feast for Two” at $45/person is great date noshing. You get a choice of beef, pork, chicken and seafood preparations from across the world, along with expertly executed cheddar, pepper jack, swiss and fontina-based fondues.

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Unless I’m in it somehow, art doesn’t really resonate for me. Let me explain. When I’m experiencing art (a play, a concert, a painting, a poem), I need to interact with it. I want to be enveloped with its sound, feel its breath on my neck, imagine I know it personally and go to parties with it. I want it to haunt me. And I want to be able to do a little haunting right back.

It can start with a pair of headphones and a monitor. It may involve strategically-placed furniture so as to simulate domesticity. It might surprise you in a bathroom or a stairway. There is no formula to the intimacy that’s created. This idea of “viewer-centered” art (art that considers the viewer with regard to environment, sound, emotions, etc.) seems parallel to the “student-centered” model that dominates the last 25 years of research on how people learn, which is why it’s pretty much perfect that MoMA PS1 is housed in a giant 19th-century public school building in Long Island City.

Founded by Alanna Heiss in 1971 and initially called PS1 Contemporary Art Center before joining up with The Museum of Modern Art over a decade ago, MoMA PS1 is the largest space for experimental art I’ve ever experienced. The first time I visited was years ago when my good friend Keith Gladysz and I were looking for museums and galleries that could serve as models for an experimental arts forum we were setting up at The Walt Whitman Birthplace. PS1 was the place to go back then and it still is now. With its philosophy of avoiding any kind of serious permanent collection (MoMA PS1 is a true exhibition space), its legendary Saturday evening concert series (“Warm Up,” every summer), and the quality of artists that show work here (Laurel Nakadate’s documentation of loneliness and voyeurism in America blew me away), there really is nothing that compares.

If you’re lucky, you’ll read this with enough time to check out Ryan Trecartin’s “Any Ever,” a weird video/film installation showing at MoMA PS1 until early September. If it’s gone, however, fret not. I’m sure something sprawling and lovely and possibly disturbing to the point that one might learn something will most assuredly replace it. This type of education should never ever end. ps1.org.

Way back in September 1962, Canada launched Alouette 1, becoming the third country to design, build, and orbit its own satellite. Just ten years later, Canada was the first country to launch its own geosynchronous communications satellite, the Anik A1. Anik E1, another communications satellite, was placed in a geosynchronous orbit more recently. Canada has, indeed, been a significant player in space-based communications.

A communications satellite in a geosynchronous orbit always appears at the same position in the sky and thus the antenna used to communicate with the satellite need not be equipped with tracking capability—it can be mounted in a fixed position. The satellite that transmits television signals to the dish mounted on your house is an excellent example of a geosynchronous satellite. The use of a geostationary orbit (meaning the samething) for a communications satellite was first suggested by Arthur C. Clarke, the author of the novel upon which the film 2001: A Space Odyssey was based.

* The Autumnal Equinox, which marks the first day of fall, occurs on the 23rd of September at 5:04am Eastern Daylight Time. It is one of two instances each year (the other being the Vernal Equinox) when the amounts of day and night become equal.
* Uranus, Neptune and Pluto are the early evening planets this month. They all require a telescope to appreciate. Why not visit Custer where you will get a chance to view these planets through our powerful telescopes? Uranus will be at opposition on September 25th; it is one of the best times to view this distant world.
* Mars can be seen in the east and Jupiter will ride fairly high in the southwestern skies an hour or so before the sun comes up. Jupiter should be unmistakable—it will be the brightest object in the early-morning sky.
* There are no dramatic meteor showers expected this
September.

NASSAU

Pop’s Seafood Shack & Grill
(516) 432-7677, Island Park
popsseafoodshack.com
Remember that giddy feeling you had your first visit to Disney? You’ll feel that again when you stand in the sand, beer in hand, overlooking the water with palm trees (yes, real palm trees) scattered about the beach. Pop’s is great for any age group during the day, but by the time that bursting sunset drops the crowd turns into upper 20s through mid 30s ready to mingle. Even the city folks are forming their own “bridge and tunnel” crowd to come here. Find out what all the buzz is about—make sure you wear your flip flops!

SUFFOLK

Georgica Restaurant and Lounge
(631) 537-6255, Wainscott
georgicarestaurant.com
Summer is coming to a close and the Hamptons’ nightlife is down to its final few hot weeks. Still open for the first few weeks of September, Georgica Restaurant and Lounge continues to perfect the East End scene with its fine cuisine and chic yet relaxed social scene popular with the who’s who of NYC—you may end up bumping backs with one of the Hamptons’ frequent celebrities.

Nestled against the waterfront of Georgica Pond, the bustling mansion plays to the “it” crowd with its step and repeat placed up front so everyone can strike a pose. Your taste buds will pop with every bite—make sure you dig into the unique tuna cone appetizer, the lobster risotto entrée, sides of sublime lobster mac and cheese and a melt in your mouth corn pudding brûlée, and the red velvet lollicake pops for dessert. Drink options are extensive (by the glass or the pitcher), but the cool cucumber cocktail is a must-have. By the time you’re polishing off your dessert (and another round of drinks), the beats billowing from the lounge will change the vibe from stylish restaurant to late-night lounge where bottle service and special guest DJs reign.

Put your best foot forward and strut your stuff in Wainscott now while the nights are still hot in the Hamptons.

Frying Pan
(212) 989-6363, Pier 66, Manhattan
fryingpan.com
Summer is just about over, but Autumn in Manhattan is still hot down by the pier. For a nautical night out, grab a bucket of beer on a historic lightship (a big boat) at Pier 66 Maritime. This seasonal bar and grill (open till mid October) is a casual, after-work hot spot with a reputation for standout fries. Wear your comfy shoes, you are on a rocking boat after all. If doing your three-hour tour on a weekend, get here early—they close ship by midnight or 1am.

NASSAU

The Homestead
(516) 922-9293, Oyster Bay
This all-American bistro and bar features local bands playing a variety of genres. They also offer specials and a prime location if you want to check out Oyster Bay’s classic car shows on Tuesdays. Friendly regulars and good music.

Sutton Place
(516) 431-3133, Long Beach
Sutton Place is Long Beach all over. Summery, fun and carefree. Live music on the weekends, specials and trivia during the week. 

SUFFOLK

The Nutty Irishman
(631) 969-9700, Bay Shore
Your typical Irish bar, upgraded to include a big stage and dance floor. The Nutty Irishman is all about music every night of the week, but focuses on local acts on Monday’s open mic night (which also features a $3 special on beer from local breweries) and Saturday’s “Block Party” night.

Stony Brook University Café
(631) 632-1093, Stony Brook
This college lounge is open to the public and students alike and has been a hotbed of local musical activity for years. Beautiful, professional stage and sound system. Check out the Sunday Street Acoustic Series, sponsored by WUSB.

Note: Readers must convey their adoration of The Red Zone with only the use of exaggerated, Hulk Hogan-like mannerisms (e.g., oscillated ear clasp).

NASSAU

Angelina’s Fireshack & Pizzeria
(516) 326-0100, New Hyde Park
angelinasfireshack.com
Eazy Cheezy Peazy! And 750ml bottles of Duvel, Brewery Ommegang Three Philosophers, and Sierra Nevada Brewing Company Ovila Abbey Dubbel. And the entire Sixpoint Craft Ales can series. And…

The Good Life
(516) 798-4663, Massapequa Park
thegoodlifeny.com
To be recited with one’s bullhorn-emphatic, monster truck rally commercial voice-over voice: “SUNDAY! SUNDAY! SUNDAY! Witness everyone’s favorite bandana-in-back-pocket tender of Roseanne Barr as he streams 24 drafts—including constants such as Gulden Draak, Piraat, Delirium Tremens and Ayinger Celebrator—and dispenses dishes to adoring patrons!” Come visit.

Mr. Beery’s
(516) 579-7049, Bethpage
mrbeerys.com
Can’t find Brooklyn Brewery Concoction, an ode to penicillin with “peaty Scotch, ginger-infused honey, and lemon juice,” anywhere else on Long Island.

SUFFOLK

Legends Restaurant
(631) 734-5123, New Suffolk
legends-restaurant.com
A renovation project by owners Diane and Dennis Harkoff between November of 2010 and May 2011 eradicated previous obstruction issues (with a heightened ceiling and larger windows, Cutchogue Harbor and Peconic Bay are now visible from the restaurant’s interior) and improved handicap accessibility. Recent Sunday lunchzilla: Egyptian-style shrimp dukkah (spice mixture of ground pecans, coriander, cumin, pepper, and fennel; red quinoa and eggplant timbale; ancho chili aioli and blood-orange coulees drizzle); tuna napoleon (raw tuna with miso-ginger vinaigrette and seaweed salad between crispy wontons); and pistachio semifreddo with chocolate ganache and Widmer Brothers Brewing Company Pitch Black IPA.

CANZ a Citi Roadhouse
(631) 654-2269, Patchogue
canzaciti.com
Third and most recent member of the Wu-Tang Can (other components comprising the 36th Chamber of CANZ a Citi Roadhouse: Ol’ Dirty Westbury and Ghostface Astoria), with a pert ensemble of 48DD(rafts) and craft aluminum.

The Loyal Dog Ale House
(631) 225-1535,Lindenhurst
theloyaldogalehouse.com
Installation of an eight-line draft tower supplements their initial sixer, and now the dog pours from, not on, fourteen craft hydrants. A temporary tap hostage from Avery Brewing Company (The Reverend, Hog Heaven, IPA, The Maharaja) in July satiated while Man v. Food vanquished obese burritos with trucker hat soul.

Click here to follow Niko Krommydas and his blog, Super Neat Beer Adventure, Yes!!, where you can find more nightlife reviews.

Photo by Steven Lang

W hen I started working full-time in the wine industry, I vividly remember chuckling at the giant wall of vodka in liquor stores. Every few months, there’d be a new “hot” brand of vodka that every store needed to carry and the wall continued to grow. I thought about how unique wine is—a handmade, farmed product that was produced with passion and, in general, the marketing was focused on the producer’s location and unique story. Something has happened since then (mid 1990s)—wine has become the big hot item. There are more wine brands and labels now than ever. Every wine label sold in the US needs to be approved by a governing body (the TTB, aka Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) before hitting the store shelves. In 1999, about 60,000 labels were approved; in 2010 the TTB approved 163,000 labels. So for the consumer, there is plenty of choice. But is that good or bad? Too many choices make decision making more difficult for the casual wine consumer (even the serious consumer). And with increased choice/confusion, the opportunity for branded wines increases. The biggest wine wholesale companies, import companies and spirit companies have noticed this and are taking advantage of it.

What’s a wine-curious customer to do with all this market confusion? Follow my path to drinking success. Start with a grape you like, then research all the places that grape does well and start drinking. I recommend starting with the grape’s historical home. Once you’ve found a grape to work with (that means drink, and don’t forget to spend a few seconds actually thinking about the taste and aromas), move around the globe with it. What do I mean by that? Let’s take Cabernet Sauvignon. Start with a Bordeaux from Pauillac or Saint Julien, then try one from Napa, one from Sonoma, one from Mendoza, Argentina, one from Coonawarra, Australia, and one from Walla Walla, Washington. When you run out of ideas, find me for more. This can be done for each and every grape and you don’t worry about the “brand.” You worry about the grape and where it’s from.

With Cabernet Sauvignon, you might think, what about Long Island? There you might need a bit more guidance as the climate is a touch cool, so I’d recommend a vintage that was unusually warm and dry (2005, 2007 and 2010) and one with a touch of age. There are some warmer vineyard sites on Long Island the grape will do quite well. I’ve had very good luck with Cabernet Sauvignons from Paumanok Vineyards. But for the most part, Long Island is best suited to grapes that like a bit cooler weather—Merlot and Cabernet Franc for reds. The historical region for Merlot is also Bordeaux, just a different part that is cooler and more in-land, specifically Saint Emilion, Pomerol and neighboring regions. On this venture, you will find plenty of price variables, and that speaks to the regions’ ability to brand themselves as Champagne has done for sparkling wines, Chablis has done with Chardonnay and New Zealand has done with Sauvignon Blanc to name a few. It is much more interesting to drink a wine from somewhere, rather than from some corporation.

TR RESTAURANT & BAR
Hampton Bays (631) 728-8700

It’s hard to find the TR Restaurant, but it’s worth finding. That was especially true on a dark, stormy night as we drove in circles around Hampton Bays through pouring, pelting rain, explosive lightning and booming thunder. Finally, through the tempest, we came upon Tully’s Seafood and Market and “Voila.” There tucked behind it on Foster Creek, which feeds into Shinnecock Bay, was the TR Restaurant and Bar.

It’s a rustic, rough-hewn seafood spot amidst boat yards and marinas. The warm welcome and homey atmosphere we encountered, plus a few fast glasses of wine, made our early travail fade quickly, as did a prompt serving of soft, warm rolls.

TR Restaurant is a casual, nautical, laid-back, paper-over-table-cloth kind of place. The fish are fresh, the croutons in the large Caesar salad are house made and the substantial soups taste like they could cure a cold.

The young, green, inexperienced staff is lovable and impossible to dislike as they learn their craft. Somehow they fit, for TR Restaurant isn’t a fancy or pretentious place. It offers down-to-earth food at down-to-earth prices, most of it quite good.

Owner Tom Rutyna, who made a name for himself as Executive Chef at the Coast Grill in Southampton for a decade, has a winning way with fish. His grilled whole sea bass fish-of-the-day ($26) tasted as though it was caught minutes before it was served. The Louisiana-style barbecue shrimp ($24), with rice and black beans, delivered the expected big-bang flavor and the Long Island duck breast ($28) was cooked to medium-rare perfection as ordered, although not particularly enhanced by its soy ginger butter sauce. The only entrée that disappointed was unseasoned, flat, tasteless pappardelle with sea scallops, pistachio, pesto and grape tomatoes, ($27). The corn on the cob accompaniment to some entrées was slightly overcooked, but not enough to stop anyone from eating it. And the runner serving our table had no clue about who ordered what, but that wasn’t enough to make us dislike this very likeable young man.

Aside from the fact that appetizers came without silverware and staccato style (three together, then after a lengthy wait, the fourth arrived), there were no taste or flavor complaints. Little-seen billi bi mussel stew ($6/$8) was dense with first-class ingredients, ivory white, thick and rich.

The classic Caesar salad more than lived up to its billing. Two tiny crab cakes ($12), with a tangy mustard sauce, were light on filler and heavy on crabmeat and long, fresh-grilled Maya prawns were packed with flavor and worth every penny of their $14 tab.

All desserts were priced right at $7. I’d stay away from the tasty passion fruit tart with a mango glaze because of a rock-hard, fork-bending crust. Instead, opt for the moist Almond pound cake with berries and whipped cream, the robust chocolate cake with its caramel sauce and the light ricotta cheese cake with its sliced white peach plate mates.   

photos by stephen lang

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COMTESSE THÉRÈSE BISTRO
Aquebogue (631) 779-2800

When he’s not in the kitchen, Aristodemos Pavlou, the chef at Comtesse Thérèse Bistro in Aquebogue, hunts for game and forages for mushrooms, ramps and wild fiddlehead ferns. He gets duck from his neighbor, the Crescent Duck Farm, and fish from Phil Karlin, a Mattituck commercial fisherman. The twenty types of herbs he uses come from the Bistro’s own garden. Apples and cider are just a lot away at the Woodside Farms. Other ingredients come from nearby farm stands and the eleven wines available originate at Comtesse Thérèse from its own vines, for it is the Island’s only vineyard with a restaurant.

The restaurant is in an 1835 house that once served as a church rectory. It has been brought back to life by the keen eye of its owner Thérèsa (Tree) Dilworth, a tax attorney by day and a winemaker away from her lawyer duties. She spent four years converting the 180-year-old building (doing much of the construction herself) into a quaint, charming, country-style restaurant with rooms that make diners feel as though they are eating in the home of a bygone era.

All of this would be unremarkable in France where lovely old homes, local ingredients, antique furnishings and very distinctive, individualistic restaurants are the rule rather than the exception. But on Long Island, Comtesse Thérèse is one of a kind.

Although the restaurant’s signs, wine barrels (six of which spell out the word “bistro” in flashing neon), etc. are a bit over the top, its tasteful interior is a place of hand-gilded detail, old breakfronts holding silver and glassware, bare polished wood tables, carpeting, chandeliers, oversized framed mirrors and traditional art.

Comtesse Thérèse’s French-skewed food is traditional as well. Dishes like escargots, onion soup, brie en croute, foie gras, chicken chasseur, tarte tatin and crême brulée dot the menu. Most of them are rewarding successes. And why not? Mr. Pavlou is a classically-trained French chef educated at Le Cordon Bleu L’Art Academe in Paris.

After receiving some exceptional, warm, house-made rolls and soft butter, we sampled a dense French onion soup ($16) for the ages, bursting with the flavor of a local duck stock. Had it been any thicker, it could be cut with a knife. A cream of asparagus soup of the day ($7.50) offered delicate taste and consistency, but needed a hefty dose of salt. Six good, garlicky escargots ($11.75) and brie en croute, ($12) or warm brie and wild mushrooms in puff pastry paired with cool greens, are other recommended starters.

Among the entrées, the fish of the day ($24), rascas, a firm white-fleshed bay fish popular in France paired stew-like with fava beans and tomatoes was light and fine. A huge take home-sized lamb shank confit ($25) was tasty but hard rather than fall-away tender. Well-done, smoked local duck breast retained its taste and most of its moisture, but would’ve been better medium rare (our competent waiter didn’t ask how we wanted it). Sautéed chicken ($23), in a rich cream sauce, more than passed muster.

The house-made desserts here are an especially strong course. The large tarte of the day (blueberry one day) accompanied by almond cream is a steal at $7.50. The tiny tarte tatin ($9) boasts a scoop of house-made ice cream, three chocolate truffles ($10) made with wonderful Belgium chocolate are delicious and best of all is the gâteau de château ($8.50), a powerful chocolate cake drenched in warm chocolate, blackberry brandy sauce that provides chocoholics with an almost orgasmic high.   

photos by stephen lang

Read more Food Reviews from Long island Pulse!

NASSAU

TWO Steak & Sushi Den
(516) 358-2222, New Hyde Park
New Hyde Park or NYC? You would hardly be able to tell the difference once you step inside this Asian steakhouse. The hip and modern décor captivates its clients with a killer city vibe. Looking for a mid-week pick me up? This trendy hotspot has great specials along with a DJ spinning your favorite beats on Wednesday and Thursday nights. Dress to impress and skip dinner at home before hitting this lounge.

SUFFOLK

Oakland’s
(631) 728-6900, Hampton Bays
You can almost taste the sunset in your cocktail while listening to the live music under the tiki bar. Just a few feet off the water and surrounded by fishermen’s bobbing boats, you can’t help but wonder: Is this the perfect night? Semi-casual attire (it is a restaurant too, ya know) while dancing on this large deck makes for lasting summer memories.

Millesime at the Carlton Hotel
(212) 889-7100, Manhattan
Hop on the LIRR or swing in through the Midtown Tunnel for a weekend retreat at the Carlton Hotel. The elegant old-New York building sets the mood for a leisurely or romantic getaway. Located north of the Flatiron building and south of Herald Square, guests are in reach of Manhattan’s best Midtown attractions. The pristine lobby with its sweeping mezzanine, rich marble floors and the glamorous crystal chandeliers adds to the excitement of your weekend escape in NYC.

While heading upstairs to the Carlton’s restaurant, Millesime, it’s hard to miss the detailed Tiffany-style glass atrium above. The casual yet classy décor makes you feel like you are pulling up a chair in one of the finest Parisian seafood brasseries. Lobster stamped paper tablecloths and buckets of oyster shells add a nice touch to the overall ambience. Keep it simple by ordering one of their fish entrées along with their unbelievable homemade sauces, each one completely perfected. Just looking for a quick bite? Sit at the raw bar for a variety of freshly shucked seafood.

It’s hard not to head downstairs to the hotel’s lounge once you hear the beat of the music whispering up throughout the restaurant. Sit at the bar or pick a table to lounge at. Looking for your own cocktail? Try the “Train Wreck” for one daring drink. With a group? Grab either the fish bowl white sangria or the Parisian punch bowl, both are ladled into individual glasses and enjoyed with long straws. Here’s to a night out that leaves a lasting impression.

NASSAU

Mirelle’s
(516) 338-4933, Westbury
Feeling fancy? Mirelle’s is. Mirelle’s is a suave, sophisticated dining hall with live music every Friday and a singer/songwriter’s night on the second Monday of every month.

Mulcahy’s
(516) 783-7500, Wantagh
Long Island’s biggest small venue. Or smallest big venue. A classic bar/music hall combination that hosts both local and national acts. Check it out if you like crowds, dancing, wings and drink specials. 

SUFFOLK

Bartini’s
(631) 539-9196, Babylon
Your friendly neighborhood bar with a healthy dose of original music. Owners Dave and Magge Drew are musicians themselves, and they’ve made it a place musicians love to play and audiences love to listen. Open Mic Mondays and local bands on the weekends, with the mixed set of characters you find only in Babylon Village.

Bobbique
(631) 447-7744, Patchogue
Legit barbecue meets legit blues. It’s a beautiful thing. Expect local favorites like Kerry Kearney and Sweet Suzi, awesome brews on tap and a deliciously messy meal.

Photo of Corry’s Ale House by Stephen Lang

NASSAU

Corry’s Ale House
(516) 809-7818, Wantagh
corrysalehouse.com
Dubliner cheddar silk over homemade potato chips with Unibroue La Fin Du Monde, then grill-blackened chicken strips over toasty-roasty garlic bread with Founders Brewing Company Porter. Then a nap. Then Un Chien Andalou. #powerful

Otto’s Sea Grill
(516) 378-9480, Freeport
Apocalyptic precipitation ruined the exterior clam bar experience and Nautical Mile afternoon. Freeport has enough blue liquid already, diabolical clouds!

RVC Tap Room
(516) 536-3220, Rockville Centre
facebook.com/rvctaproom
77 bottles of handcrafted craft beer, crafted by the hands of craftsman. If that isn’t on an advertisement somewhere…

SUFFOLK

Digger’s Fine Food & Spirits
(631) 369-3200, Riverhead
diggerspub.net
Sierra Nevada Glissade Golden Bock and a swell chit-chat with owner, Stephen Wirth, who plans to launch Crooked Ladder Brewery within the former Crystal Bar, now an unoccupied space adjoined to Digger’s, in October. And so it continues…

Alexandros Restaurant
(631) 928-8600, Mount Sinai
alexandrosrestaurant.com
Our Mother’s Day din-din of pastitsio, an oven-baked pasta hodgepodge with cinnamon-pinched ground beef and bechamel, lacked yiayia’s Chios charm, but fortunately, lamb souvlaki with tzatziki and Long Ireland Beer Company Celtic Ale were available for cleanup crew.

Dark Horse Restaurant
(631) 208-0072, Riverhead
darkhorserestaurant.com
From the co-owner and former chef of Tweed’s Restaurant and Buffalo Bar. An all-Long Island draft selection of Great South Bay Brewery (Blonde Ambition Ale), Greenport Harbor Brewing Company (Black Duck Porter, Harbor Ale, Havre Rouge, Spring Turning Saison) and Long Ireland Beer Company (Celtic Ale) during an EZ-laxin’ March visit. “For The Planet Dammit” on Wednesday nights features vegetarian and gluten-free menu options.

Click here to follow Niko Krommydas and his blog, Super Neat Beer Adventure, Yes!!, where you can find more nightlife reviews.

Photo by Steven Lang

As summer continues, the quality LI cuisine just keeps coming. Here, the first (and some say most important) meal of the day gets its day in the sun and we get a taste of what could be called “ancient eats.”

Breakfast makes a rare appearance in Foodie Gossip land, starting with Left Coast Kitchen and Cocktails in Merrick (516) 868-5338. From 8:30am-1pm on Saturday and Sunday, all of the old favorites will be available, with some classic breakfast dishes getting an haute cuisine makeover. Influences for each “House Plate” are wildly different, ranging from a “Temple Burger,” which features lox, scrambled eggs, cream cheese, red onion and sliced tomato sandwiched between two large homemade latkes to “The Truck Stop,” which contains maple mesquite sweet potato tots smothered in BBQ pulled pork with sunny-side up eggs. For those who prefer lighter breakfast fare, Back Page Café (in the rear of Page at 63 Main) in Sag Harbor (631) 725-1813 is all organic. Granola, steel-cut oatmeal and multigrain pancakes share the menu with egg white omelets, with a diverse choice of ingredients—peppers, tomatoes, onion, avocado, spinach and potato hash. There is also a full assortment of organic juice, smoothies and more.

These days, being the 21st century and all, high technology is ubiquitous in the modern restaurant kitchen, but ancient cooking methods still can produce top eats. For later in the day, check out Grana in Jamesport (631) 779-2844 is using the wood-burning brick oven to make pizzas the old-fashioned way. Co-owner David Plath did extensive studying and research in order to create the best pizza possible and imported a brick oven from Tuscany—and it was all worth it. His highly original toppings and perfectly crafted crusts are a hit. Head to the North Fork Oyster Company in Greenport (631) 477-6840 on Mondays and Tuesdays for the rest of the summer where Executive Chef Richard Lanza is creating a special straight from Atlantic coast Native Americans of thousands of years ago—the lobster and clam bake. For $49/person, Chef Lanza is presenting a family style feast of lobster, clams, mussels, potatoes, and local corn, along with soup, salad, dessert and a glass of white sangria.

Looking for more breakfast? Bite into our feature on the Island’s best in this coming October issue. Send your food news to .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address).

On August 24, 1989, the Voyager 2 spacecraft flew by Neptune, approaching to within 64,000 miles of this ringed planet. The probe discovered six new moons and found that Neptune had more than one ring. Voyager 2 was the first, and so far only, spacecraft to fly by Neptune. Although it is now leaving our solar system on its way to the stars, it is still making important discoveries—the space probe recently detected “magnetic foam” or “bubbles” in the region where our solar system ends and interstellar space begins.

I should also report that a supernova recently went off in the Whirlpool Galaxy, a barred spiral galaxy much like our own Milky Way. It was discovered by a French amateur, Stephane Lamott Bailey, this past June. A supernova is an exploding star that, for a brief moment, can outshine the entire galaxy in which it resides. In the average galaxy, a supernova goes off about once every 50 to 75 years. What is unusual about the recent stellar explosion is that it is the third to occur in the Whirlpool Galaxy over the past 17 years (the previous two were observed in 2005 and 1994). The most recent supernova known to have gone off in our own galaxy happened sometime in the late 1800s. Supernovae are important since they serve as “standard candles” for astronomers and are responsible for creating all of the elements in the periodic table heavier than iron; without supernovae, there would be no rocky planets as we know them, nor would there be life.

* August 11. Neptune will be at opposition, that is, directly opposite (and hence fully illuminated by) the Sun as seen from the perspective of Earth. Neptune will appear as a tiny blue dot in all but the largest telescopes.

* August 12-13. The Perseids meteor shower will peak with up to 60 meteors an hour. Viewing will be less than ideal since the full “Sturgeon” Moon (known as such to early Native American tribes because of the large fish caught at this time) will hide many fainter meteor trails.

* Throughout August, both Neptune and Uranus will be visible in the evening skies; Uranus will rise around 9:30pm, about an hour and a half after Neptune. Pluto will also be up—it is an interesting target for a camera-equipped telescope.

I have been invited to all sorts of wine gatherings. Some big, some small, which are often referred to as “gastro” clubs. These have existed for centuries, more likely millenniums. One of the oldest international gastronomic societies is the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, founded in Paris in 1248. The group often selects a restaurant to host their events. Due to the diversity of the membership, the wine and dish pairings can be very interesting and often experimental.

Beyond the formal clubs such as Chaîne, the Food and Wine Society of New York and Local Slow Food Chapters are small private gastro clubs. They are usually informal in structure, though some become more formal over time. Anyone can start such a club or use the Internet or a social network like Facebook to find one nearby. One of the keys to being in such a group is to be open to new experiences. One group refers to themselves as the Red Meat Club (or RMC). The group initially had their gatherings at steakhouses in Manhattan, hence the name. Some of these little clubs have some interesting traditions. The RMC votes on the best wines of the evening and the person who brought the winning wine has his/her dining bill absorbed by the rest of the group. Unfortunately, many of these private clubs lack commitment and fall apart or have long hiatuses. The RMC does not fall in that category.

One of the more unique and fun wine groups is a loose group of East End LI winemakers. It is always interesting when the group includes a mix of winemakers with their own wines at stake, which are being tasted blind.
The best gatherings have themes, such as Long Island Sauvignon Blancs versus Sauvignon Blancs from around the world. This type of tasting group offers wonderful surprises, such as a ten-year-old top Bordeaux being upstaged by a ten-year-old Long Island Cabernet Sauvignon (that wine being a 1995 Paumanok). It also offers great opportunities to try wines that most people wouldn’t buy for themselves, either due to cost or the style. Examples include tasting a fine bottle of wine from Hungary that is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Blaufrankisch or a forty-year-old Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from Inglenook. Another key to a successful gastro club is the mix of people and their tastes. All the members should be in a similar stage of wine and food knowledge. You wouldn’t want to be in a group that makes you feel guilty bringing a wine that is either too pedestrian or too sophisticated for the core group of members.

Can’t Keep Up

I ’m a guy in my fifties looking for a woman who is exciting as well as smart and well put together. I love to try new things. I’m not saying I want to relive my youth or party all night; I just want to be active. And I’m definitely not looking for a young woman; I’d like a mature, sophisticated lady who’s also “over the hill.” And I’m meeting them. But after a few months, I’m getting dumped for pretty much the same reason every time—she says she can’t keep up and believes I really want a twenty year old. Some of my pals are experiencing different versions of the same story. Is it possible women in our age group really can’t keep up?

Dear Getting Dumped,

This makes no sense, especially since I am over 50 and have more energy than most 30 year olds but only when it involves things I like to do and share them with someone I want to be with. What are these “things” you like to do? Are you asking them to race bikes to Montauk? This has nothing to do with age—believe me on that one!

Why not ask these smart, sophisticated and exciting ladies what they like to do rather than assuming the activities you pick are fun and exciting.

Energy level is the spark in the relationship. Each one should pull from the other’s spark. Sorry to say Mr. Move and Groove, these ladies just aren’t feeling the spark with you. I can tell you that being active and sharing the same interests are not one in the same.

If you asked me to play volleyball or take a ride on the back of a motorcycle, I would have said “See ya” before the date even finished. I’d be able to tell right away we have nothing in common, it has nothing to do with keeping up, I just have no interest in any of that. Ask me to go see a 70’s band and dance all night, I’m in, if I like you. Get it? Start a friendship with common likes and interests and then you can hop, skip and jump onto the road to romance. You say you are getting dumped for the same reason by several women, maybe it’s not them, and not you either, but your approach that needs a tweak.

­—Jeanie

Dear Mr. Over the Hill,

Age group? What’s in a number? We are as old as we feel. Looking? You look for a new car or you shop for new clothes, but when we look for a type of partner with special requirements in mind, we’re clearly not ready. Be flexible. There’s magic to attraction, something unexplainable, it’s not criteria that has to be met. When you “shop” for a date and you’re on a mission, you’re not being natural. Then you date and continue to interview. She gets the feeling that you are on a trek and wants to get off your trail.

Did you ever buy something that doesn’t fit, don’t need and have to return? I’ve done it! When you get home, you’re reminded of the time and money you wasted. A first date should be sort of like window shopping. You stroll by a few stores in a casual mood, with no needs. You smile at the decorated windows, laugh at the headless mannequin, sip your iced coffee and enjoy the moment. You see something, you buy it or you don’t, but you leave happy either way. It’s the chemistry of the moment that should count the most.

On a first meet, chemistry must prevail­—and I’m not talking about “jump into the sack” chemistry! Attraction comes in many forms. A great smile you want to see again, beautiful eyes you want to gaze into. Without sounding like shallow Hal, looks count too. Did any of this happen before the dumping or was it the bungee jumping that made her run? Be active but expand your activities as well. When you find the chemistry, you may not need all that activity! Just being together creates its own importance. Window shop, enjoy the journey, not the destination and you should find the trip lasts a lot longer.

—Garrett

Readers, email your questions to .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address).

It’s August. Sunny. Not a hint of the big F word in sight. But alas, the birds are laying out maps for southern considerations during cocktails. The slightest hints of September’s suggestive winds are dancing around in the dreams of leaves at 1am. It’s still hot out, but music festival season is getting ready for its last act before packing up the sauerkraut and merchandise until next year.

It could be that you’ve returned from Bonnaroo and just yesterday glumly downloaded the 356 pics into iPhoto. Perhaps the fact that the Great South Bay Music Festival is becoming a dim hum reverberating in the back of your memory has got you down. Maybe you haven’t had enough music outdoors this summer to officially call it a day. Need to break out the blanket and shades one more time? Craving 30-foot speakers and a caravan of tents? Have no fear. The city has a remedy or two for you.

I love the bandshell in Brooklyn’s Prospect Park. Its design is dignified in this peculiarly global manner but streamlined and minimalistic…folksy almost. This perfectly mirrors the programming. Singer-songwriter Andrew Bird (who opened this year’s Celebrate Brooklyn! season) rubs shoulders with a “Latin Legends” salsa band. The best in indie rock is juxtaposed with the best in world music, which is, after all, what one might hear while walking down any number of streets in the city’s most musically-rich borough.

There’s also the City Parks Foundation’s SummerStage series, which brings ridiculously good music, theater and dance and all things in between to spaces across the Big Apple. Tappen Park in Staten Island, Socrates Sculpture Park in Queens, and—arguably the biggest kahuna of them all—Central Park’s Main Stage are all part of the action. I saw the Counting Crows at the Main Stage with some family not too long ago and when Adam Duritz sang about being “feathered by the moonlight” in “A Murder of One,” we all looked up and realized that he wasn’t kidding. The best part of the show is often right above our heads.

Where are you going to be this month when the flaming orb of summer goes down? prospectpark.org/calendar, summerstage.org.

Jesse Jones was a son of a bitch. No really, his mom was mean. Jesse himself was a cool guy. He was a solid poker player, always happy to pick up the dinner tab or cover another player’s drink tip if he didn’t have change. But Mrs. Jones was the meanest bitch I’ve ever met. I’m not the type to disparage women and I only use the term bitch when absolutely called for. Only once in my life have I ever blurted out the c-word and that was when a car fell on my leg while changing a tire. But if any woman in history deserved to be called a bitch, it was this bitch Mrs. Jones. She bitched about the weather, traffic, inept dealers and internet poker players. She kept a brick in her purse, bloodstained from some poor sap who tried to mug her. The bitch was merciless. She was so mean, she ran into a ghost at an old bed and breakfast and the ghost hightailed it out of there. When Jesse was born, she told the nurse to drop him on his head because it seemed malformed. When the nurse refused, Mrs. Jones grabbed her by the hair and tried to pry the newborn out of her arms. It took six nurses, four doctors and three shots of Diazepam to get her to let go. Before she passed out, she spit in all their faces, machine gun style, spit-spit-spit-spit.

Sitting at a poker table in between Mrs. Jones and Jesse was not on my bucket list, but all the other tables were full and there were a few fish worthy of being gutted. Jesse was a cool customer at the poker table, nothing fazed him. His mom on the other hand relentlessly chastised players into calling or folding, verbally assaulted them if they won a pot from her and god forbid they sucked out on her. The bitch would lose it.

The table was $2-4 no limit hold ‘em and Mrs. Jones came in for a raise to $12 from the button. I was in the little blind and looked down at rags. Knowing I wanted no part in winning a pot from her with rags, I folded. Jesse called from the big blind.

“Better watch it, boy,” Mrs. Jones seethed. “Don’t come beggin’ me for money after I gut your narrow ass.”

Jesse ignored her and watched the flop—Ace, Ace, 10. Jesse checked.

“Boy, I know you ain’t holdin’ that Ace. I ain’t got it either you piece of shit. I should have aborted your misshapen head. I bet 30.”

Jesse called.

A player across the table whispered, “Is she really his mom?”

Jesse nodded. “You should hear how she talks to people not related to her.”

The turn came another Ace.

“Now I know you ain’t got that Ace shitbird,” she said. “Nobody with a head that ugly gonna hit quads on his dear old mum.”

Jesse checked and Mrs. Jones bet $50.

“I raise,” Jesse said and slid out an additional $200.

“You alien-headed motherfucker. You take this pot from me and I’m gonna bust you up good.”

The river came down a Queen.

“All in,” Jesse said.

“You dim-witted little fucker. Bet you think you just sucked out on me. You’re sitting on Queen-10 thinking I’m holding Jacks. But you’re wrong fuckstick. I call. I got Pocket Kings. Show me that Queen-10 you stupid piece of shit.”

Jesse smiled and held one card on the air. “I got the Ace you vicious cun…”

Before he could finish the one-syllable word, the blurry red streak of Mrs. Jones’ purse brick whizzed by my face and landed flush across the bridge of Jesse’s nose. Blood shot everywhere. I tried to stop her follow-up onslaught but she elbowed me in the jaw, kicked my chair out from underneath me and jumped on top of Jesse. She kneed him in the groin, pulled off her shoe and thrust the heel into Jesse’s eye.