OCEANS 5 SEAFOOD MARKET & EATERY
Shoreham, (631) 849-6414
The vibe is good from the get go at the nice Oceans 5 Seafood Market and Eatery in the Shoreham Plaza. Diners enter this spotless, bright, white venue through the market with its well-marked display cases that offer a preview of the possibilities in the dining room. The friendly countermen instantly create a warm welcome. The eight-table dining room with its trac lighting, candles, snow-drop chandeliers, white table cloths and huge nautical photos is appropriate for what is Shoreham’s first really serious restaurant. So too is the neat little gem of a bar tucked into the rear of the restaurant.
Those blown up photographs aren’t the only things that are huge at Oceans 5. Patrons who choose a single entrée are served a meal that includes a large, diverse green salad with a choice of four dressings, vegetables and one of three starches (vegetable risotto, pilaf or roasted red potatoes). The bread slices in a basket look relatively uninteresting, but patrons who dip them into the high-quality, herbed olive oil at the center of the table will be rewarded.
The long comprehensive menu lists no fewer than twenty-seven appetizers plus four noteworthy soups. We sampled the six greaseless, lightly-breaded, fried shrimp ($7) with creamy tartar sauce, the shrimp cocktail ($8) of seven tiny, tender, boiled Pacific white shrimp that are chilled and served with Oceans’ own red sauce, the four, crisp, remarkably tasty coconut shrimp ($7) with a tangy honey mustard sauce and none of them were as good as the husky, homey crab corn chowder ($7 a bowl, $5 a cup) in which the two main ingredients marry perfectly. The so-called “cup” of this dense, creamy brew is actually a filling, formidable bowl that prevented the diner who ordered it from even putting a dent into his entrée. I can only imagine the size of the bowl; certainly it must be a meal in itself.
The entrée ordered by the soup man was the shrimp and scallop scampi ($22), a linguini based colossus, three quarters of which he had to take home. The sautéed shrimp and scallops were fresh, fine and abundant as was the garlic, lemon, cream sauce. But there wasn’t quite enough of it to adhere to the pasta. The intelligent merge of an Idaho Rainbow trout fillet with sautéed, sliced almonds, wine and butter worked, and then some. Order New England lobster rolls ($25) and receive not one but two medium-sized rolls full of dense, finely chopped meat plus a salad with fresh tarragon.
The menu’s pick-your-own fish section offers fourteen dishes, about thirteen sauces and three preparation possibilities (grilled, pan seared, baked). Often-seen Tilapia can counter any boredom when harmonizing pineapple and mango salsa is added.
All but two desserts (chocolate molten cake and apple pie) are made in house. We ordered a richly flavored brownie sundae ($8) with a couple of scoops of ice cream and a banana cheese cake in which the banana flavor is infused in the cake rather than simply covered with a few slices.
Unfortunately, a few desserts and a number of other dishes were sold out. Hopefully the restaurant’s two young owners will adjust to their long menu and order adequately to keep it stocked.
photos by stephen lang
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